2004 Toyota Sienna

My soccer dad van needs an upgrade.
I'll be installing what I gutted from my previous car/setup:

Hu: Pioneer deh-80prs
Tweets: Dayton nd25fa-4
Midrange: Seas 4.5 L11RC/P
Midbass: peerless SLS 6.5. Or possibly vifa 10" M26WR-09-08
Sub: IDQ 15s sealed.

Pictures to come.

Plans: Dash pods for the tweets and midrange.
Midbass in the doors. 6.5s IB or sealed for the 10"s (deciding if I want to go through the cutting of the door panels and to fiberglass the enclosure. Glassing can be a pain.
Large sealed enclosure for the idq15's. 5.45cuft net for the two.

The HU is 3-way so I'll have to use an RCA output from the MIdbass amp to feed the sub amp. No time alignment for subs because of that.
 
Disclaimer: I am a broke mofo. I'll state that so people don't expect some fancy gear and install.
Being that I'm installing in my 2004 Sienna shoukd give that away, but I feel it must be stated.

I'll be using all my old gear and what I have laying around. pretty much everything, except some fabrication materials. Being a hoarder is paying off right now.
 
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I've read that fiberglass resin doesn't really bond with hdpe, so I had to scrap my original baffle rings for the dash pods. Replaced with good ol wood. I used pine wood from scrap. This warehouse sells off their shipping crates for only $5. Not the best wood, but plenty enough for 4.5" midranges that will play down to 250hz

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It's a little late for this as the pods are already done, but I could have shaved down the tweet flange to tighten up the center-to-center distance of the tweet and midrange. Oh well.
 
Pods braced and wrapped:

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A few layers of glass later:

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Trimmed

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Flattened the baffle surface with a belt sander then used the flush trim bit

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Don't mind the extremely messy garage

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Dampened. Outside because I forgot to do so before sealing them...

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Nice progress. What material will you be wrapping the pillars with?

I haven't decided yet. Whatever it is, I'll have to also do the same for the A-pillar panels. It might be the black speaker grill cloth I already have, as to not need to buy anything, but I'll have to maybe spray a coat of black spray paint on it, because the last time I used it, it had a faded-black purple color to it from the sun.


Here's the weird coloration:
The A-pillar and the grill used the same cloth,but only the grill had the coloration. Idk why

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So I got a little lazy. Even though I went out to get some body filler, I decided not to use it and started wrapping the dash pods.
I first wrapped with speaker box carpet, then grill cloth on top of that. The goal was to use the carpet like a batting material covering the imperfections of the fiberglass. It kind of worked.

Carpet:

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Grill cloth:

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Passenger side has more bumps that still show. Oh well.

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To make a cover to be stealth, since I live in a pretty ghetto city, I might utilize the hdpe baffle I originally made for the pods. The plan is to first route the back part to fit over the speakers. Though the clearances are small I need to route about half the depth of the baffle. Hopefully it's forgiving. Then wrap them with grill cloth and attach them with small magnets, if I can find where I put them

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Now I need to wrap the stock A-pillar panels with the grill cloth to match. I also want the A-pillars black, because I mentally feel I have a more narrow and shallow stage when the A-pillars is a light color on my face. Closing my eyes to listen will fix that, but I can't drive that way.
 
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The subwoofer...

The sealed enclosure was already built, but not wrapped yet.
Birch plywood. I love that it's sturdy and light weight, but $90 for a sheet was painful.

Simple boring rectangle cube 5.4cuft to fit in the rear storage space.

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But... The subwoofer plan may change from dual sealed, to a single 15" IB.
Now the output will definitely drop, but it will be much more stealth and have a little awe factor, for me at least, if I can pull it off.

I will need to vent the IDQ 15 out of the cabin pressure vent, which was conveniently where the stock sub enclosure was.
Panel removed:

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What's behind the panel with OEM sub removed (8" sealed)

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The vent to Infinity and beyond:

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Does it fit?

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Is that a 15" in your quarter panel, or are you just happy to see me?

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Oh, here's the stock sub grill with the carpet and jbl emblem removed that will be hacked up to accommodate the 15"

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My decision to have 10" midbasses again has been made, for panels have been cut and there's no turning back now.
My previous setup had Peerless SLS 10s in a leaky door. This time, I'm hoping to go sealed to circumvent any door panel resonances and rattles. More fabrication, less door treatments.

OEM for panel:

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Melted plastic rivets held the bottom portion on, which I hope to use to shape the bottom when I'm glassing.
The idea is just to wrap the bottom piece in place with a flat wood back side and just glass over it.

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Lower portion cut:

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More cutting

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Mock up: I'll try to aim it just a little bit later

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Some metal will need to be cut to accommodate the depth and the motor vent.
 
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Dash pods wired up. Added a nut rivet to the a-pillar panel to screw the pods to.
Bought the rivet nut tool for this build and found a M6 screw in my hoarder stash to use.
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One pic only. It was 1:00am by the time I wired up the amps and speakers to finally get some sound.
I now have 150hz and up available. Tweets need breaking in, but the midranges are definitely much better than they were: firing up from the dash without an enclosure.

My amps location is a little weird, so I'll save that for later, til I find a way to make it junkie worthy, though they're just an old Eclipse 36401 and Hifonics Zeus amps.
 
So the cabin pressure vent that will be used to vent the sub for IB is 9 x 4.5" = 40.5 in². The sub's cone area is 130in²
So I have about 1/3 the cone area. I've been trying to search how much vent space you need to not cause any issues. I've read Patrick Bateman on diyma stating one can get away with 1/4 the cone area. Some say you should have the size of the cone area (won't happen). There doesn't seem to be definitive rule regarding this.

On a side note, I bought a sheet of birch plywood to build the box for the subs that won't be used.
 
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A little progress made on the sealed enclosures for the doors.
Some metal was cut to try and get as much air space as possible. Trying to balance getting air space, and the ease of building the enclosure. Full fiberglass would give the most air volume, but I am not up for all that glassing.
So I'm going half wood and half glass.

Ideally, I'd like 1 cuft for a Q of .7, but I'm estimating I'll get around 0.7 cuft.

1cuft would give an F3 of 63hz and 0.7cuft 73hz, so the enclosure size will decide if the midbass is HP'd at 63hz or 80hz.

Onto building: A template was made, but I had to trim a lot of it after this picture because it wouldn't let the door close.

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Copied it to the other side... Because stereo, not mono

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Metal has been cut behind the driver and the access hole. All to gain a whopping ~0.08cuft

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After the cutting, structural integrity was degraded and this more narrow portion moves more than I want it to, 90 angle aluminum piece will be bolted to brace this section. It'll be on the backside, it's shown in the front just for the picture.

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Two layers of 3/4" and it barely clears the window tract. This is the backside of the door enclosure's base. The middle layer will be just a frame and the other layer will be routed down to 1/2".

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A little progress on the midbass enclosures: Some router work on the base to get as much airspace as I can.

Some grooves 1/4" deep. The slab is 3/4" birch plywood so some spots are now 1/2".

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Routed out 1/4" on the bottom layer of those rectangles that go into the door toward the window tracts:

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Middle layer cut like a frame for the depth:

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Those cubbies glued and screwed on. Top pieces also added. They go up and under the door panel:

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Looking up under the door panel as mentioned earlier.

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Bottom panel cut. There was a little lip I wanted removed :

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Raised the bottom plastic panel ½” up. The total height should barely clear the seat controls:

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I'm using the bottom portion for shaping purposes, to make it look presentable. Hopefully, I'm not the best at the finishing part. I'm not sure how I even want to finish it. Paint? Wrap? Make it match the Dash Pods? Two tone door panel? Try to paint and match the OEM gray panel?
 
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I think I found another way to add some more air space before I wrap this sucker and start fiberglassing:

I can add more space by adding some wood and enclosing the red circled areas (below pics). The door panel has a little armrest which flips up to access a little plastic storage compartment. That compartment will be cut and shortened a whole lot to make more room for the enclosure instead. Therefore, some more cutting, gluing and screwing is needed. I might get ~.03cuft

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Added a little more air space.

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Houston we have a problem; we can't fit the armrest back on without cutting the pocket.

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I'll cut that sucker up soon and maybe just glue some enclosure carpet under it. It won't fit much after. Maybe a spare 9mm magazine.

Mounting rings need to be routed out and mounted next
 
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