This one:
So I assume that the lower left chamber would be the 30-Hz.
Then in a 30, 45, and 60-Hz setup, it seems. Like the lower right needs to do the 60?
but then if the upper chamber on top, it at 45-Hz that will effectly choke the higher frequencies form coming out?
or
is lower right 45-Hz, and then some leakage of 60-Hz come out and that gets resonated in the upper chamber tuned at 60-Hz?
or is it some thing like 30 and 60 Hz across the bottom, and then the upper chamber could be at 80-Hz just to allow the unloaded port to pass through everything up to its 80-Hz tuning freq and chockes the higher order distortions?
2) And then once I know the frequencies, then how does one go about selecting the box volumes and chamber port sixes?
can those be done in isolation? Or does the whole thing being tied together cause the deal with the math to change?
(Stumbling off to the link from dégagé)
An there is this: http://dbdynamixaudio.com/off-axis-6...re-calculator/
And this looks better: http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=32
Either way I think I got the wrong subs with too high of a QTC.
That cooling question probably probably applies more to this sort of box:
That speaker on the left will not see a lot of fresh air.
Or maybe if we shut off the amp in the middle of some tone that was at a control mode, then the box's response would slowly decay?
And then the back EMF would be the force of the air pressure acting against the cone?
So shutting off any electrical input, and damping... then cone should start moving because the box is resonating?
(dunno...)
Yeah the video sync part is hell for live work.
and often a chin scratcher for home theatre.
I guess we are stuck stuck with impulse response, so it will not be great for thumps at the higher frequencies.