Jumping on the 3D printer bandwagon

[geolemon]

I sent it as .stl to your Email, and thanks - definitely interested to see if I've designed an expensive or difficult thing here.

[BigAl205]

According to PrusaSlicer, if you use full supports, it would take 14.7m of filament, or roughly 44.9g.

Basing the calculations off MatterHackers PRO Filament:

PETG and Nylon would cost $2.47
ABS and PLA $1.89

If you could somehow do it without supports, it would take 10.97m (32.5g) of filament.
PETG and Nylon $1.79
ABS and PLA $1.37

It looks like you're going to need internal supports, since the top part is hollow, but it'll be a PITA to remove the supports after printing. You might consider making the top part into two adjoining shells.

[dumdum]

Ender 5 pro on its way to me today... I’m on the bandwagon shortly... now to work out fusion 360

[geolemon]

It looks like you're going to need internal supports, since the top part is hollow, but it'll be a PITA to remove the supports after printing. You might consider making the top part into two adjoining shells.

It's hollow but it's not like vertical walls with a roof... I have some angles and it's really a rounded hollow inside. I was trying to think about that, having read that 15 degree to 20 degree inward angles were OK, and having seen some test prints with angles exceeding that up to 45 degrees that basically still "worked" just got progressively less accurate - and for an inside hollow, "accurate" isn't really any kind of a big deal.

Is it possible to just tell your slicer software "don't include any supports inside?"
Or alternatively - I do have that diagonal divider wall inside... it might complicate wiring a bit, but I could extend portions of that wall all the way to the top (although you do still need to feed the wire from one side to the other)?

But since you mention it, and for some other reasons - like "ease of wiring", maybe it would actually be slick to have an oval shaped cap that could pop off and clicked into place. Might be the perfect project to give Fusion 360 a shot! I could design an oval-shaped flat-top connector with a clip on each side, print it upside down, to clip into the top. Then I could hollow out the inside more too, which would be cheaper to print and easier to wire up too.

And then only supports would be needed for that nozzle, I think...

[SiW80]

Ender 5 pro on its way to me today... I’m on the bandwagon shortly... now to work out fusion 360

Sweet - I have an Anet A6 (present from wife and kids) but the Ender would have been even better


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[BigAl205]

It's hollow but it's not like vertical walls with a roof... I have some angles and it's really a rounded hollow inside. I was trying to think about that, having read that 15 degree to 20 degree inward angles were OK, and having seen some test prints with angles exceeding that up to 45 degrees that basically still "worked" just got progressively less accurate - and for an inside hollow, "accurate" isn't really any kind of a big deal.

Is it possible to just tell your slicer software "don't include any supports inside?"
Or alternatively - I do have that diagonal divider wall inside... it might complicate wiring a bit, but I could extend portions of that wall all the way to the top (although you do still need to feed the wire from one side to the other)?

But since you mention it, and for some other reasons - like "ease of wiring", maybe it would actually be slick to have an oval shaped cap that could pop off and clicked into place. Might be the perfect project to give Fusion 360 a shot! I could design an oval-shaped flat-top connector with a clip on each side, print it upside down, to clip into the top. Then I could hollow out the inside more too, which would be cheaper to print and easier to wire up too.

And then only supports would be needed for that nozzle, I think...

I have the option to tell it to add overall supports from the base up to any overhanging piece, only internal bracing, or both. I don't have enough experience to manually tell the software what specific areas to add bracing and what areas to leave unsupported.

[diy.phil]

That setting might be global... everywhere, touching the base/plate only or none. We can always set to none but manually make our own support (lines, zigzag, grid, solid, etc) with a 0.5 mm distance to a sidewall and 0.28 or 0.3 mm gap under the bridge... then rip/discard it after print. Yeah 45 degrees will work but the surface may not be smooth. 30 is super smooth on mine. Beyond 45 it may crash but sometimes works for a short distance only, approx/under 1 mm, but the surface will rougher than the 45 type (can always experiment with it).

[dumdum]

A bit of fusion 360 at work while it’s quiet and I’ve designed a mega fuse holder which will have a logo added and then get printed as a test piece to see if I can get the hang of the slicing software

it’s 200mm long and will have small screws to hold a flat 2mm plate over the rear which will form a captive part to stop the rear of the M8 bolts from falling out/shorting, this has a single screw to locate it in the centre and then the two screws at either end will also lock it in place

there are also two countersunk screws at each side to hold the cover on the base, I will then put a tool kit in a safe place (perhaps in a 3D printer case??) in the car so all fuses etc can be accessed and serviced

I’m ten hrs in and a few tutorials and that’s where I’m at, I’m happy with that for a starter for ten

[diy.phil]

^wow nice!

[SiW80]

A bit of fusion 360 at work while it’s quiet and I’ve designed a mega fuse holder which will have a logo added and then get printed as a test piece to see if I can get the hang of the slicing software

it’s 200mm long and will have small screws to hold a flat 2mm plate over the rear which will form a captive part to stop the rear of the M8 bolts from falling out/shorting, this has a single screw to locate it in the centre and then the two screws at either end will also lock it in place

there are also two countersunk screws at each side to hold the cover on the base, I will then put a tool kit in a safe place (perhaps in a 3D printer case??) in the car so all fuses etc can be accessed and serviced

I’m ten hrs in and a few tutorials and that’s where I’m at, I’m happy with that for a starter for ten

Sweet - what material will you print it in?


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