New Build - 2019 JL Wrangler 2 door

[Grinder]

Sorry, guys...

I'm looking forward to to seeing this box and it's installation. I'm also very interested in learning how it sounds, how loud it will get, and whether or not vent noise turns out to be an issue ...all in the interest of learning, of course.

[DavidRam]

Should I treat or shape the end of the port in a special way??

[JCsAudio]

Sorry, guys...

I'm looking forward to to seeing this box and it's installation. I'm also very interested in learning how it sounds, how loud it will get, and whether or not vent noise turns out to be an issue ...all in the interest of learning, of course.

No worries Grinder, it was good to check and get back up to date anyway. I would rather have that happen then be wrong after the box is built.

Should I treat or shape the end of the port in a special way??

It would be a good idea Dave for smoother air flow and less turbulence around the port opening, however, if you put a radius on the port then you will raise the port tuning a little unless you add to the port something like a half round instead of cutting into the length of the port with a quarter round bit and router. What you can do is build the box with the port opening squared off and then install and test the subwoofer in it before you do the finishing (if possible).

Run a test tone around the targeted tuning frequency while you have your hand on the cone (at low power/volume) and adjust the frequency until the subwoofer cone moves the least or even seems to stop moving. I use signal gen (app) for this. Record the frequency at which this happens and this will be your true port tuning frequency or fb. If it’s lower than predicted then you can radius the ends with a router but if it’s higher than expected then maybe add the half round so you don’t raise it any more if you’re concerned. If it’s way off then we need to question the construction or the design.

[Grinder]

...or perhaps if the above test produces no audible chuffing at target tuning and desired output level, then you're golden (just a thought).

[JCsAudio]

...or perhaps if the above test produces no audible chuffing at target tuning and desired output level, then you're golden (just a thought).

I have to respectfully disagree and say to not run any test tones at said higher desired output because in my experience running a test tone at high output levels for an extended length of time can burn the voice coil especially at tuning where the woofer isn’t moving and cooling the coil. Don’t ask me how I know this, lol.

Considering how much that subwoofer costs I wouldn’t do that. Test tones are much harder on speakers than music.

[Grinder]

I have to respectfully disagree and say to not run any test tones at said higher desired output because in my experience running a test tone at high output levels for an extended length of time can burn the voice coil especially at tuning where the woofer isn’t moving and cooling the coil. Don’t ask me how I know this, lol.

Considering how much that subwoofer costs I wouldn’t do that. Test tones are much harder on speakers than music.

Great point. I should have thought this through and been a lot more clear, as I didn't envision output testing with the tone, for the very same reasons you mention.

[DavidRam]

Does anyone have a link to those type of t-nuts that mount with two screws?? I can't find them anywhere...

[JCsAudio]

Ok David, I’m guessing you’re busy working on the box. Let’s post up some progress pictures soon.

[JCsAudio]

Does anyone have a link to those type of t-nuts that mount with two screws?? I can't find them anywhere...

How about three screws? https://www.rockler.com/screw-on-tee...se-size-thread

Is this it? https://www.amazon.com/Escape-Climbi...PJDWQXHANPB31Z

[DavidRam]

Ok David, I’m guessing you’re busy working on the box. Let’s post up some progress pictures soon.

Well, I didn't have a whole lot of time, but I did get the plywood all cut to size. I was mistaken, the .75 inch Baltic birch is 13 ply, not 11.