Writing notes as you go and just one adjustment at a time is the key !
There is never time to do it right . . .
But, there is always time to do it over !
Writing notes as you go and just one adjustment at a time is the key !
There is never time to do it right . . .
But, there is always time to do it over !
Viewing Smilies , you trying to access privileged system?¤Somewhere 0ut There¤}]
Just read through that and there is a section on crossovers and wavelength x driver size. The text above the table
The chart below can serve as a useful guideline for designing systems and selecting crossovers. Thecolumn to the left indicates the diameter of the driver. The graphs at the top of each column indicatethe dispersion pattern of sound from the speaker at the frequencies listed in the column below. Ideally,we choose a crossover point in the green zone. Yellow is not optimum, but won’t be a big problem.Orange is worse than yellow and red should be avoided.
I don't understand the column headings and the values in the tables. Are the values crossover frequency?
I just saw this thread stickied and thought the title was familiar. I remember reading the thread on diyma almost 10 years ago when i first joined. Now, i hate to be the negative nancy but i am very glad to see that this is advice from 20 years ago, because i cant picture this method of tuning being worth much even 10 years ago, let alone today.
I'm a little late on this but the values in the table are maximum ideal frequency for a given diameter. In the column headings D is the diameter of the driver and λ is the wavelength for the given wavelength. λ in the graph is taken at sea level and 72 degrees Fahrenheit.
Take the Diameter of 6 inches for example:
The wavelength of 2260 Hz is 6 inches so that corresponds to λ=D which means that λ=1.5D is 9 inches and λ=2D is 12 inches.
So in an ideal world the highest you would play a 6 inch driver would be λ=4D which is 565 Hz and you would want your crossover frequency to be at or below 565 Hz. Since that is a bit of a tall order for some setups (my own included) He is suggesting a best practice of placing your crossover frequency at or below the λ=1.5D measurement of 1507 Hz. λ=D for the 6 inch driver is 2260 Hz and this is considered the beaming frequency.
*When I mention driver size I'm using the effective cone diameter and not overall diameter which is what the chart is using as well.
Nice explanation , el_bob-0 !
Do you see or associate "beaming" with a graph and the listing of degrees off-axis ?
Intended example: 30 deg/45deg/90deg ?
I can't lie - after posting it, and seeing the replies, it did have me scratching my head a bit. But then after reading some of the Audiofrog Forum posts regarding tuning and setup, things started making a lot more sense.
Maybe we should start a new thread with modern tuning techniques and methods?
Are you not entertained?!?!
I haven't ran kick panels or anything resembling mechanically accommodating in many years so I pretty much stick with λ=D at 60°. I would like to work on aiming in order to make tuning a bit easier but I am the master of unfinished projects.
*λ=D at 60° is just what I shoot for, I would like to be more in line with λ=1.5D at 60°.
Last edited by el_bob-o; 11-26-2019 at 06:28 AM. Reason: Clarity indicating personal preference.
When the solid line goes into three lines with drop-off of dBs , Makes me think of useable output.
I have seen people expect "Way" too much out of a given mid , say 5.25" or 6 3/4" , in a two-way without a notch filter .
My Scans played very well from 250 hZ - 5,000 hZ , exception to "the rule"!
Last edited by Queef; 11-26-2019 at 10:33 AM. Reason: Over-playing range of frequencies (beaming)
No problem being negative Nancy if you've tried it and it didn't work for your objectives however as I mentioned to someone on diyma back when who made a similar comment there are numerous ways to skin a cat and just because it may not work for you doesn't mean it won't work for someone elses objectives (the title states "a simple way to tune", not "the best way" or "the only way"). It seems many on these forums don't realize not everyone is a "hobbyist" or "enthusiast" looking to squeeze every last bit out of a system nor do they all have a nice processor along with the tools/experience to use them properly let alone any desire to spend the money on them and learn. I have found there are those out there just looking to get the "most" out of whatever gear they have/can afford without spending hours and hours tuning and I still believe some of this can be a benefit to some.
For the willing to learn hobbyist/enthusiast there are a ton of advanced tuning tutorials out there and I have devised my personal method from experimenting/combining procedures learned from many others more experienced. Is it the best way for everyone? Nope, but it is for me.I
And if someone has a "better" way to tune without a DSP/tools to get the most out of it they should definitely post it for those not willing to go that route.
And my typical disclaimer..I cannot hear what you can hear and you cannot hear what I can hear so our results may vary!
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