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Thread: Chit's Moosetang

  1. Back To Top    #11
    Senior Member chithead's Avatar
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    Re: Chit's Moosetang

    That is good advice, I will definitely consider that if purchasing those pods and modifying them. Grabbing two PVC caps from the home improvement store seems like a much cheaper and potentially better option though. I don't mind learning how to fab them in there and mold to look factory with some filler.
    Are you not entertained?!?!


  2. Back To Top    #12
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    Re: Chit's Moosetang

    That bad boy is screaming for that pair of GZ 15's IB!!
    "Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid."
    -Albert Einstein

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    Disturbing the peace SublimeZ's Avatar
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    Re: Chit's Moosetang

    Moosetang Blues, I dig it


    Quote Originally Posted by Glenn View Post
    That bad boy is screaming for that pair of GZ 15's IB!!
    you'll never get a better chance...


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    Senior Member chefhow's Avatar
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    Re: Chit's Moosetang

    I had a 94 Cobra with ID HLCD and ID6's in the doors, a pair of 15's all off a 6 channel Fultron Belle amp

  5. Back To Top    #15
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    Re: Chit's Moosetang

    Cosign

    Quote Originally Posted by SublimeZ View Post
    Moosetang Blues, I dig it




    you'll never get a better chance...
    A man cannot become a hero until he can see the root of his downfall

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    Senior Member chithead's Avatar
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    Re: Chit's Moosetang

    Quote Originally Posted by chefhow View Post
    I had a 94 Cobra with ID HLCD and ID6's in the doors, a pair of 15's all off a 6 channel Fultron Belle amp
    15's in an enclosure, or trunk baffle? Tried reading everything I could last night regarding trunk baffles versus enclosures and such.

    So far the consensus is trunk baffles do work, but not as good as they can when facing the seats? That was a shocker. Like 90% of the IB/trunk baffle builds you see have them facing the seats. I guess it can create a bandpass effect when they face into the seats, which is why a lot of them get a rep for having a very limited bandwidth, and typically not having the best response over 40Hz?

    Of course it is all install dependent. Apparently the, "best" way to do a trunk baffle is having as open a space as possible into the cabin. Which would typically mean rear deck - but I've also read that pushing too large a cone area through too small of a cutout from the factory can also create a bandpass. Which means without cutting metal, could be limited to much smaller subs - and that kind of negates the idea of more cone area for a trunk baffle to wring the most potential out of it.

    Got some more homework to do. Still leaning towards a trunk baffle - it would be such an easier install (and they always look so nice). Just want it to be as smooth and natural and have the highest performance possible, with no loss or dips between the subwoofers and the 5x7 mids going into the front doors.
    Are you not entertained?!?!


  7. Back To Top    #17
    Senior Member jrwalte's Avatar
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    Re: Chit's Moosetang

    I'd assume when saying 'trunk baffle' you'd still seal the trunk from the cabin with a wall behind the seats? Otherwise the backwave is coming through the seats.

  8. Back To Top    #18
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    Re: Chit's Moosetang

    Quote Originally Posted by chithead View Post
    15's in an enclosure, or trunk baffle? Tried reading everything I could last night regarding trunk baffles versus enclosures and such.

    So far the consensus is trunk baffles do work, but not as good as they can when facing the seats? That was a shocker. Like 90% of the IB/trunk baffle builds you see have them facing the seats. I guess it can create a bandpass effect when they face into the seats, which is why a lot of them get a rep for having a very limited bandwidth, and typically not having the best response over 40Hz?

    Of course it is all install dependent. Apparently the, "best" way to do a trunk baffle is having as open a space as possible into the cabin. Which would typically mean rear deck - but I've also read that pushing too large a cone area through too small of a cutout from the factory can also create a bandpass. Which means without cutting metal, could be limited to much smaller subs - and that kind of negates the idea of more cone area for a trunk baffle to wring the most potential out of it.

    Got some more homework to do. Still leaning towards a trunk baffle - it would be such an easier install (and they always look so nice). Just want it to be as smooth and natural and have the highest performance possible, with no loss or dips between the subwoofers and the 5x7 mids going into the front doors.
    You're my boy Chit but damn do you love to overthink stuff. Build the IB baffle and love it.
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    2002 330Ci & 2020 Tacoma

  9. Back To Top    #19
    Senior Member chithead's Avatar
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    Re: Chit's Moosetang

    Quote Originally Posted by jrwalte View Post
    I'd assume when saying 'trunk baffle' you'd still seal the trunk from the cabin with a wall behind the seats? Otherwise the backwave is coming through the seats.
    You got it - looks like anyone who calls it, "infinite" baffle is immediately corrected that it is just a, "trunk" baffle, as the volume is still limited and not infinite.
    Are you not entertained?!?!


  10. Back To Top    #20
    Senior Member chefhow's Avatar
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    Re: Chit's Moosetang

    Quote Originally Posted by chithead View Post
    15's in an enclosure, or trunk baffle? Tried reading everything I could last night regarding trunk baffles versus enclosures and such.

    So far the consensus is trunk baffles do work, but not as good as they can when facing the seats? That was a shocker. Like 90% of the IB/trunk baffle builds you see have them facing the seats. I guess it can create a bandpass effect when they face into the seats, which is why a lot of them get a rep for having a very limited bandwidth, and typically not having the best response over 40Hz?

    Of course it is all install dependent. Apparently the, "best" way to do a trunk baffle is having as open a space as possible into the cabin. Which would typically mean rear deck - but I've also read that pushing too large a cone area through too small of a cutout from the factory can also create a bandpass. Which means without cutting metal, could be limited to much smaller subs - and that kind of negates the idea of more cone area for a trunk baffle to wring the most potential out of it.

    Got some more homework to do. Still leaning towards a trunk baffle - it would be such an easier install (and they always look so nice). Just want it to be as smooth and natural and have the highest performance possible, with no loss or dips between the subwoofers and the 5x7 mids going into the front doors.
    Mine were in a small enclosure that took up most of the trunk from what I remember


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