If there are no speakers in the rear doors or not using the ones that are in there and there are no rattles, is there a need to dynamat them anyway?
If there are no speakers in the rear doors or not using the ones that are in there and there are no rattles, is there a need to dynamat them anyway?
its definitely worth throwing a few mats on the exterior sheetmetal but the real gain is doing the full "cover all the holes and put a layer of MLV between the interior panel and the door card" if you're interested in a quite interior. A fair bit of noise can come through the doors. With the caveat of course that you are chasing small things at that point. Other areas are higher priority. Although, you probably attenuate more noise putting MLV on the rear door than on the floor pan.
If you’re on a budget than it’s probably not worth it. If you’re curious about noise reduction then take a reading at say 65 mph and then do the front doors only. Run the test again and note the change. Whatever that ends up being will be your approximate noise reduction for the rears. Now you will have a better idea and you have to do the fronts anyway.
Mazda CX5 AF GB10, AF GB25, AF GB60, JL VX800/8i, AF GB12 sealed, Mmats M1400.1
Ford F150 AF GB10, AF GB25, JLC5, JL twk88/Pioneer D8604, Mosconi Pico, JBL Club 5501, Sundown SD3-10 ported @ 30 Hz
Sienna AF GB15, Audiofrog GS690, JL twk88/Pioneer D9500F, JBL GTX500, Alpine SWS10 ported @ 31 Hz
https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threa.../#post-5608901
The way I see it is if it's not bothering you now I wouldn't worry about it. I did get a rude awakening when I had an suv though because it hit home why people do the full sound deadening treatment on something like that and this was in a more luxury type suv (Grand Cherokee Limited).
They might say "don't try this at home" but nothing about not trying it at your friend's house.