No problemo
No problemo
Haha.. Given up for now. Gotta find a source for ABS or similar sheet from a vendor who doesn't want one arm and first born for a sheet. I would like to stay plastic.
But yes, much to fill in..
So for now I've at least got my original CCD and MLV layer over the whole mess.
So I won't get to this in time for the NCSQ meet, but I have an idea on this for the single large non-flat gaping hole in my doors allowing all that midbass energy to be stopped only by a CCF and thick Sounddeadenershowdown layer of MLV.
I'm considering and wonder if anyone's seen this... Why not a layer of fiberglass? Good thick layered up "plate" that fits well behind that MLV layer, deadened with CLD, and rivnuted to the door?
Naysayers have said laying up glass vertically you'll run into a huge challenge with gravity working against you. Curious has any of you old pro's seen it done? I think if I park the car securely on the downhill portion of my driveway, gravity won't be such the issue.
Just thought I'd throw this up the flagpole and see who salutes.
Yes this has been done numerous times. I have seen people build a "backer plate" out of blue tape and then add fiberglass and mat to fill in the hole.
If I could remember there is a build log on DEEMA that shows it. No idea which one it is because it was probably 2010 that I saw it.
2002 330Ci & 2020 Tacoma
That's cool.. I'll search. Would love to know how effective it would be. I suspect if enough contour can be shaped into the plate for strength, one would think it would be equally as strong as the ABS sheet Mark did in the op post vid, while sealing even better because it's a mirror mold of the the flanged opening.
Just lay the car on its side
I've been thinking about easier ways to seal off these non-flat holes in inner door skins.
I've seen many use CLD with sheet metal & screws over it but it's tough to get the sheet metal to seal on the edges if the surface is not flat.
Maybe this has been done before.... But what if you used a thick medium density CCF sheet, say 1-2" thick, and cut it big enough to overlap the hole. Then screw the sheet metal over it in order to sandwich the CCF tight up against the CLD and put positive pressure on it. The foam would take up the voids created by the uneven surface. This might even work without CLD if you want to make removal easier....
Just some thoughts I thought I would stick here