2003 Chevy S-10 Pro Audio Blowthrough

[chad]

Because I'm a German hoarder I probably still have all the emails

I do remember there being a ton of talk about bandwidth, efficiency and flat out volume while being effortless. The main reason those 2206's are in there, keeping stress off the 2118's and sort of copying Richard Clark's GN but with more bandwidth up front.

the 2118 is literally a midrange it low-end strapped bad. Any cab that was fullrange used those used pairs, coupled, that's the reason the 16 ohm versions are so prevalent, to get an 8 ohm final impedance. Even then a vented cab was only rated to 80 cycles +/- 4dB. The 8 ohm was intended for use as a midrange in the SR and SRa series of cabs, namely between a 2241 18" and a 2416H-1 horn driver, sometimes a 2426 horn driver.

IIRC that truck may have had the 2426 in it at one point then switched over to the final state it is in now because they were smoother.

Mike's a great guy. Sort of shocked that he sold it.

[chad]

2 things I might add.

1. JBL drivers have a VERY tight tolerance in the magnetic gap and the frames are very rigid. Any abnormalities on the mounting surface can be translated to the motor structure in terms of cone alignment, this can cause rubbing... Use machine screws and inserts, very flat surfaces, and torque the screws in a criss-cross fashion. Wood screws and mounting to carpet have killed more than one JBL VGC series driver.

2. Don't fixate on graphs and numbers, it is going to be unrefined in its own way, you likely knew this going into it. I saw you mention running out of EQ, if you did then you may have used too much. Trust your ears, the quickest way to knock the life out of a system is over-EQing. I can make a PA look like studio monitors on paper or a screen, but it will sound like shit You literally have a PA in a small truck... Have a blast with it I'm kinda more than jealous

[Strakele]

Thanks. 1 should be good - I don't intend to touch them and the 2118's have an aluminum baffle over the plywood. And the enclosure was CNC cut and has T-nuts for all the drivers.

2 is hard lol. Finding the right balance between dynamic and smooth. It's tough to not try to fix every little thing you see on the screen. That's why I had to go back and open them up a little more after the first tune. What areas should I focus on to get a real nice snare snap without guitars and stuff being so aggressive that you can't listen loudly for long? The 701 has a max cut of 9dB per band. As of now I believe I have the full 9db cut at 125Hz and close to it at 100Hz on the midbass, full 9db cut at 250Hz and close to it at 315Hz on the mids, and a pretty heavy cut around 4K and 2K on the horns (among other smaller tweaks). 2-3dB of boost at the top end.

[subwoofery]

Did you try to use shallow slopes in order to use the Xover as an EQ?

I tried on my horns and dynamic did not suffer and I did not have to EQ that heavily afterwards...

I think I have my horns crossed around 6kHz @ 6dB/oct slope.

Since you have a 3-way "almost" front stage, use the Xover on the 2118 @ let's say 400Hz with a 12dB/oct or 18dB/oct slope and see if that smooth out the peaking range (100Hz-400Hz) common to most cars.

Kelvin

Edit: with the shallow 6dB/oct slope on the horns, I had to reverse the polarity of both mids in order to have them in phase.

[chad]

The cut on the horn is not uncommon at all. They will have bite and the design is not the most ideal thing. Remember that snare is VERY broad banded. What does just playing with levels get you?

[Strakele]

Hadn't thought about that Kelvin. Right now the horns are crossed at 900, mids 220-800, both at 24db. Midbass 56-200 at 18 on the higher end, sub 25-63 at 18 on the higher end. IIRC.

Chad, I think I'm pretty happy with levels at this point. I might try a lower, shallower low pass on the mids. And I wish I had finer than 1dB adjustments. 1dB on the 701 feels like a lot. I'd probably bring the mids up half a dB. And I'd like to get the peak at 115 on the midbass taken down, then raise their level. For me the 800-3k range is the source of a lot of the harshness that makes me want to turn it down (in general, with any system) so I'm hesitant to raise the horns up too much more.

[Hic]

What areas should I focus on to get a real nice snare snap

Try up around 10,000 Hz or 10 KHz.

[chad]

Try up around 10,000 Hz or 10 KHz.

LOL

[Hic]

Move your cursor over the appropriate area and read what box says on the right side of the diagram.

http://www.independentrecording.net/...in_display.htm

If this chart is laughable [ ha ha LOL ]

Why is it here ?

Ring~900 Hz

Fullness : 120 Hz to 240 Hz

Attack/crisp : 2.5 KHz to 5 KHz

snap~10 KHz

http://www.head-fi.org/t/533021/snar...uency-question

Originally Posted by jasonb

i also am a huge fan of the snare drum. it's probably my favorite instrument. nothing beats getting smacked in the face by the snare on a good rock or metal recording. older Dream Theater and Metallica's Black album come to mind.

So true. I wish more people remembered old school ways.

I also read some research from Japan that claimed cymbals have overtones up to 100khz - inaudible to humans, obviously, but apparently the overtones inter-modulate and produce apparently unrelated phantom tones lower in frequency, which we can hear.

[Hillbilly SQ]

I agree with Chad 100% to trust your ears. You have your car that's built for refinement. You already knew going in that this truck wasn't going to dial in like your car, so have fun with it for what it was built to do. You basically went from one extreme to the other.