Lanson's 2013 Ford Flex

[Lanson]

Hi y'all,

This Flex is my 2nd one, and I love these things. There is very little attention given to them in the aftermarket, including audio systems, so I'm pretty much pioneering from scratch as I did back with my first one. My previous Flex was a 2010, and most of the system equipment is a carryover from it to this one. This build I'm showing here is actually the second one, in this Flex. The first build was a great start but now it is time for...more.

So, the front stage is currently a 2-way setup, with Bravox silk tweeters in the stock pillar locations, and 6x8 JBL Power speakers in the front doors. The center channel is a 3.5" JBL GTO 329, a good little speaker but again, time for more.

Here's my pillar design, I decided to go with Dayton RS75-4 and Dayton ND20FB tweeters. I drew up a stencil:




Then I made the shape with 1/2" MDF and used 13/16" Melamine (with an 1/8" gap against the wood for more height) and ironed that into position around the shape. I would have used low temp plastic like Bing and a few others do, but was unable to find it locally. The Melamine isn't ideal, but it should work for this small shape. It was CHEAP! This is a test-fit




So then I marked the pillars to show the minimum installed height, and pulled them out. I carefully cut with a jigsaw until my shapes fit into position quite well.






So I think I'll be able to just glue these into position, lay some kitty-hair or some form of reinforcement (maybe make milkshake), and then break out the Rage Gold on them. Then sand, fill, sand, fill, high build prime, sand, high build prime, sand, and then cover with a matching vinyl.

The speakers should arrive here on Friday, says UPS.

[BigAl205]

Wow, I've never seen a printed template be used for mock-up. That's an excellent idea

[claydo]

Nice work lanson!

[captainobvious]

Those should be very unobtrusive visually with those huge pillars. Looking good so far!

RS75 vs ND91... what led to your decision to go with the reference instead? Just curious

[captainobvious]

Nevermind, just read your other thread. I can't argue that decision since it's based on keeping aesthetics where you want. By the looks of it, those should be very compact and should work out great for you.

[Lanson]

Wow, I've never seen a printed template be used for mock-up. That's an excellent idea

Its a drawing!

Thanks!

[Lanson]

Those should be very unobtrusive visually with those huge pillars. Looking good so far!

RS75 vs ND91... what led to your decision to go with the reference instead? Just curious

There's more to the issue, which I'm sure you're aware of is the sensitivity. The Reference are lower inductance and also more efficient by 3dB. I realized that the ND91 is a beast and probably would work best in an array of two or more, to work well.

[captainobvious]

You CAN use the ND91s in arrays because of their versatility, but they are great as a dedicated midrange as well. Either choice is a fine one though and I'm sure you'll like the RS75 as well.

Any idea on which midbass you're going to run?

[Lanson]

I'm almost 100% on going with the matching Reference 8".

There's a paper option now, and the old but good metal one. The metal one has a higher QTS in 4ohm form and metal, so I'm thinking that. I'd like to build a shape that fits the door like a pod, but I'm not 100% sure I can do that without resorting to fiberglass.

Here's the door (this is off my 2010 and before I did any deadening, but same shape)





innards




I was thinking, first try them IB and seal the door up the best I can, and see how that sounds. And then if i need to, work on making a small sealed box somehow.

[captainobvious]

I'd be more inclined to do paper in the midrange than the midbass so, yeah I would likely do the aluminum cone 8" RS225 with that setup as well. Should be easy to get them in those huge doors. Is that stock trim shape (on the outer plastic panel) measuring larger than the RS225's OD or would you have to cut and reshape that piece to fit? With a mounting depth under 3.75" you may be able to make a new stock baffle to mate to the door and still keep that driver well below the doorcard panel.