Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 19 of 19

Thread: 1st build log ever. 2001 Nissan Sentra GXE

  1. Back To Top    #11

    Re: 1st build log ever. 2001 Nissan Sentra GXE

    Here are the after pictures. I was able to get most of the bottom of the trunk done. I wanted to get all of it done but I pretty much ran out of gas.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20220806_212737.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	348.1 KB 
ID:	17657Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20220806_212731.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	365.8 KB 
ID:	17658Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20220806_212726.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	416.5 KB 
ID:	17659Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20220806_212720.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	184.2 KB 
ID:	17660

    I covered as much of it as I could using whole sheets of Mat 66. That made it much easier to cover a whole lot of space in a minimal amount of time. Once I had the majority of it covered I used to spare cut pieces to fill in the empty spaces as much as possible.

    I think I did pretty well for my first time. Any feedback will be appreciated.

    Lewis King

  2. Back To Top    #12
    Wave Shepherd - aka Jazzi Justin Zazzi's Avatar
    Location
    Tempe, AZ
    Posts
    588
    Join Date
    Aug 2018

    Re: 1st build log ever. 2001 Nissan Sentra GXE

    Quote Originally Posted by Original wis View Post
    Any feedback anyone would care to give?
    My favorite tool to cut materials like this (actually to cut anything) is a pair of sheet metal shears or tin snips. They are like industrial scissors. They can get sticky after cutting butyl but it looks like you know how to clean stuff real good. They are also the perfect tool for opening those damn plastic blister packs that are impossible to open.

    Looks like you accomplished your goal and I love how you put so much effort into cleaning the surfaces first to ensure good adhesion. If the butyl was getting super soft at 100 degrees, I might be worried about it holding up in the long term or if it will become drippy and soggy if it heats up too much. I also don't have too much experience with different butyl products so I'm not sure how to judge that.



    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	s-l1000.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	44.4 KB 
ID:	17661
    Measure with mics, mark with chalk, cut with torch, grind to fit, sand to finish, paint to match.
    Justin Zazzi's tuning companion for room eq wizard
    Do it for them.

  3. Back To Top    #13

    Re: 1st build log ever. 2001 Nissan Sentra GXE

    Thank you I was wondering what would be better than wasting my exacto knives. I need a better roller and I need a pair of those so that I can cover the entire car.

    The crazy thing is I've used maybe a fifth of the material that came in one box so like 10 ft maybe? So I have way more than I need to cover the entire car including the floor, roof and the side panels. I'm adding ccf to the floor as well for insulation so it should be supet quiet when I'm done.

  4. Back To Top    #14
    Noob Jdunk54nl's Avatar
    Real Name
    Jacob
    Location
    Phoenix
    Vehicle
    2014 F150 Limited
    Posts
    929
    Join Date
    Oct 2019

    Re: 1st build log ever. 2001 Nissan Sentra GXE

    CCF won't do a whole lot to prevent road noise, it is good at decoupling panels so they can't vibrate against each other though. You need something like sheet lead or MLV or acoustic insulation or..... to prevent road noise. Car people usually use MLV due to it's cost, its ability to block noise, and its rather thin profile. You can't just shove super thick things under panels and get them to go back together. Sheet lead is better at all of the above, including higher price.
    2014 F150 Limited -> Factory HU programmed for 4v outputs -> Helix DSP.2 -> Alpine PDX-V9 -> SI M25 in Valicar Stuttgart Pods, Rear SB17's, Sub BM MKV's in MTI BOX. Alpine PDX-F6 -> Peerless SLS 6.5", SI M3 in Valicar Stuttgart Pods

  5. Back To Top    #15
    Dickhead SublimeZ's Avatar
    Real Name
    James
    Location
    Deepinthehearta, TX
    Vehicle
    2016 Ram Lonestar
    Posts
    2,005
    Join Date
    Feb 2013

    Re: 1st build log ever. 2001 Nissan Sentra GXE

    I used bonded cotton on floor pan of Z06. Made a huge difference. Used to be able to get it at home depot, but I don't see it online. Closest I can find https://mobilehomeoutfitters.com/plu...acket-48-x-75/


  6. Back To Top    #16

    Re: 1st build log ever. 2001 Nissan Sentra GXE

    Yeah I'm actually putting the CCF for insulation so it keeps the heat out in the summer and the heat in during the winter. I know that the mat 66 and CCF won't prevent road noise but anything that I can do to keep the car cooler and to cut down on any rattles internally I definitely need to do.

    Once I put the wheels on the car the rattles really begin to come to the forefront. And considering how bad the roads are in El Paso, the majority of my ride anywhere has now gotten pretty loud in the wrong way.

    I can also tell you from experience now that the mat 66 definitely works. I drove my car before and after the initial application and the difference is noticeable.

  7. Back To Top    #17
    Noob Jdunk54nl's Avatar
    Real Name
    Jacob
    Location
    Phoenix
    Vehicle
    2014 F150 Limited
    Posts
    929
    Join Date
    Oct 2019

    Re: 1st build log ever. 2001 Nissan Sentra GXE

    Get 3m acoustic thinsulate if you want thermal protection too. The ccf is terrible at that too.
    2014 F150 Limited -> Factory HU programmed for 4v outputs -> Helix DSP.2 -> Alpine PDX-V9 -> SI M25 in Valicar Stuttgart Pods, Rear SB17's, Sub BM MKV's in MTI BOX. Alpine PDX-F6 -> Peerless SLS 6.5", SI M3 in Valicar Stuttgart Pods

  8. Back To Top    #18

    Re: 1st build log ever. 2001 Nissan Sentra GXE

    Continuing with sound deadener:

    Today I completed the trunk including the lid and the wheel wells and rear corner panels.

    The trunk lid was the most difficult part so far. I gave up on trying to place huge pieces and pretty much went rogue. What I did was I started cutting random pieces from what I had left of partials and used that to fill in. Once I had the majority of it done then I used knock testing to identify the places where I needed to add more. There's no echo at all now

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20220807_152714.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	332.7 KB 
ID:	17668

    I completed the rear corner panels as well as the rear wheel wells and I put additional patching on the back of the framing for the seat cutout. I knock tested to make sure it was solid as well.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20220807_152727.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	299.2 KB 
ID:	17665Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20220807_152722.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	349.4 KB 
ID:	17666Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20220807_152718.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	333.8 KB 
ID:	17667
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20220807_152736.jpg 
Views:	5 
Size:	288.5 KB 
ID:	17664

    I started at 8:00 in the morning but by then it was already almost 85 outside by 10:00 a.m. it was pushing the good 90. I heat tested a couple pieces of Matt 66 by laying them on the hottest part of the driveway directly in the sun to see how they would react. After about an hour of direct sunlight with no shade in 85 to 90 heat they were pretty soft but they definitely were not melting like, to the touch.

    So yeah I think if you leave your car in direct sunlight with no shading and no heat protection then you might make a case for it melting but most cars should be able to dissipate the heat before it gets to the material directly unless I'm mistaken. I don't ever remember the trunk of my car being extremely hot when I opened it. The cab of the car yes but the trunk is usually pretty cool even in high heat. I think good tinting and good sun shades with drastically help in the cab of the car.

    Either way I'll find out soon enough. It's going to be 90 to 100 here until pretty much Thanksgiving so I'll be able to get a huge sample size.

    Side note let's give a loud, rousing round of applause to global warming!

    Lewis King

  9. Back To Top    #19
    Noob Jdunk54nl's Avatar
    Real Name
    Jacob
    Location
    Phoenix
    Vehicle
    2014 F150 Limited
    Posts
    929
    Join Date
    Oct 2019

    Re: 1st build log ever. 2001 Nissan Sentra GXE

    I put the parts express sonic barrier butyl rope in my truck and this is what happened. This was on the vapor barrier..
    If you really want to test, you need to be able to place it vertically and see if it drips. So if you could place some on a board and put it in the sun vertically, that would be a better test. Don't be like my below pictures. That SUCKED to clean up.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	4FA20C31-C511-45A8-86B2-082403BB1AB7.jpg 
Views:	30 
Size:	240.2 KB 
ID:	17669Click image for larger version. 

Name:	0EE809D3-A271-42B7-892C-76545C42294B.jpg 
Views:	28 
Size:	199.8 KB 
ID:	17670
    Last edited by Jdunk54nl; 2 Days Ago at 05:33 PM.
    2014 F150 Limited -> Factory HU programmed for 4v outputs -> Helix DSP.2 -> Alpine PDX-V9 -> SI M25 in Valicar Stuttgart Pods, Rear SB17's, Sub BM MKV's in MTI BOX. Alpine PDX-F6 -> Peerless SLS 6.5", SI M3 in Valicar Stuttgart Pods

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Back To Top