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Thread: 1st build log ever. 2001 Nissan Sentra GXE

  1. Back To Top    #11

    Re: 1st build log ever. 2001 Nissan Sentra GXE

    Here are the after pictures. I was able to get most of the bottom of the trunk done. I wanted to get all of it done but I pretty much ran out of gas.

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    I covered as much of it as I could using whole sheets of Mat 66. That made it much easier to cover a whole lot of space in a minimal amount of time. Once I had the majority of it covered I used to spare cut pieces to fill in the empty spaces as much as possible.

    I think I did pretty well for my first time. Any feedback will be appreciated.

    Lewis King

  2. Back To Top    #12
    Wave Shepherd - aka Jazzi Justin Zazzi's Avatar
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    Re: 1st build log ever. 2001 Nissan Sentra GXE

    Quote Originally Posted by Original wis View Post
    Any feedback anyone would care to give?
    My favorite tool to cut materials like this (actually to cut anything) is a pair of sheet metal shears or tin snips. They are like industrial scissors. They can get sticky after cutting butyl but it looks like you know how to clean stuff real good. They are also the perfect tool for opening those damn plastic blister packs that are impossible to open.

    Looks like you accomplished your goal and I love how you put so much effort into cleaning the surfaces first to ensure good adhesion. If the butyl was getting super soft at 100 degrees, I might be worried about it holding up in the long term or if it will become drippy and soggy if it heats up too much. I also don't have too much experience with different butyl products so I'm not sure how to judge that.



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    Measure with mics, mark with chalk, cut with torch, grind to fit, sand to finish, paint to match.
    Updated Justin tuning sheet (Justin and Erica tuning companion for SMAART and REW)
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  3. Back To Top    #13

    Re: 1st build log ever. 2001 Nissan Sentra GXE

    Thank you I was wondering what would be better than wasting my exacto knives. I need a better roller and I need a pair of those so that I can cover the entire car.

    The crazy thing is I've used maybe a fifth of the material that came in one box so like 10 ft maybe? So I have way more than I need to cover the entire car including the floor, roof and the side panels. I'm adding ccf to the floor as well for insulation so it should be supet quiet when I'm done.

  4. Back To Top    #14
    Noob Jdunk54nl's Avatar
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    Re: 1st build log ever. 2001 Nissan Sentra GXE

    CCF won't do a whole lot to prevent road noise, it is good at decoupling panels so they can't vibrate against each other though. You need something like sheet lead or MLV or acoustic insulation or..... to prevent road noise. Car people usually use MLV due to it's cost, its ability to block noise, and its rather thin profile. You can't just shove super thick things under panels and get them to go back together. Sheet lead is better at all of the above, including higher price.
    2014 F150 Limited -> Kenwood DDX-9907xr -> Helix DSP.2 -> Alpine PDX-V9 -> SI M25 mki in Valicar Stuttgart Pods, Rear SB17's, Sub SI BM MKV's in MTI BOX. Alpine PDX-F6 -> SI Tm65 mkIV, SI M3 mkI in Valicar Stuttgart Pods

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    Dickhead SublimeZ's Avatar
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    Re: 1st build log ever. 2001 Nissan Sentra GXE

    I used bonded cotton on floor pan of Z06. Made a huge difference. Used to be able to get it at home depot, but I don't see it online. Closest I can find https://mobilehomeoutfitters.com/plu...acket-48-x-75/


  6. Back To Top    #16

    Re: 1st build log ever. 2001 Nissan Sentra GXE

    Yeah I'm actually putting the CCF for insulation so it keeps the heat out in the summer and the heat in during the winter. I know that the mat 66 and CCF won't prevent road noise but anything that I can do to keep the car cooler and to cut down on any rattles internally I definitely need to do.

    Once I put the wheels on the car the rattles really begin to come to the forefront. And considering how bad the roads are in El Paso, the majority of my ride anywhere has now gotten pretty loud in the wrong way.

    I can also tell you from experience now that the mat 66 definitely works. I drove my car before and after the initial application and the difference is noticeable.

  7. Back To Top    #17
    Noob Jdunk54nl's Avatar
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    Re: 1st build log ever. 2001 Nissan Sentra GXE

    Get 3m acoustic thinsulate if you want thermal protection too. The ccf is terrible at that too.
    2014 F150 Limited -> Kenwood DDX-9907xr -> Helix DSP.2 -> Alpine PDX-V9 -> SI M25 mki in Valicar Stuttgart Pods, Rear SB17's, Sub SI BM MKV's in MTI BOX. Alpine PDX-F6 -> SI Tm65 mkIV, SI M3 mkI in Valicar Stuttgart Pods

  8. Back To Top    #18

    Re: 1st build log ever. 2001 Nissan Sentra GXE

    Continuing with sound deadener:

    Today I completed the trunk including the lid and the wheel wells and rear corner panels.

    The trunk lid was the most difficult part so far. I gave up on trying to place huge pieces and pretty much went rogue. What I did was I started cutting random pieces from what I had left of partials and used that to fill in. Once I had the majority of it done then I used knock testing to identify the places where I needed to add more. There's no echo at all now

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    I completed the rear corner panels as well as the rear wheel wells and I put additional patching on the back of the framing for the seat cutout. I knock tested to make sure it was solid as well.

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    I started at 8:00 in the morning but by then it was already almost 85° outside by 10:00 a.m. it was pushing the good 90. I heat tested a couple pieces of Matt 66 by laying them on the hottest part of the driveway directly in the sun to see how they would react. After about an hour of direct sunlight with no shade in 85 to 90° heat they were pretty soft but they definitely were not melting like, to the touch.

    So yeah I think if you leave your car in direct sunlight with no shading and no heat protection then you might make a case for it melting but most cars should be able to dissipate the heat before it gets to the material directly unless I'm mistaken. I don't ever remember the trunk of my car being extremely hot when I opened it. The cab of the car yes but the trunk is usually pretty cool even in high heat. I think good tinting and good sun shades with drastically help in the cab of the car.

    Either way I'll find out soon enough. It's going to be 90 to 100 here until pretty much Thanksgiving so I'll be able to get a huge sample size.

    Side note let's give a loud, rousing round of applause to global warming!

    Lewis King

  9. Back To Top    #19
    Noob Jdunk54nl's Avatar
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    Re: 1st build log ever. 2001 Nissan Sentra GXE

    I put the parts express sonic barrier butyl rope in my truck and this is what happened. This was on the vapor barrier..
    If you really want to test, you need to be able to place it vertically and see if it drips. So if you could place some on a board and put it in the sun vertically, that would be a better test. Don't be like my below pictures. That SUCKED to clean up.

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    Last edited by Jdunk54nl; 08-07-2022 at 05:33 PM.
    2014 F150 Limited -> Kenwood DDX-9907xr -> Helix DSP.2 -> Alpine PDX-V9 -> SI M25 mki in Valicar Stuttgart Pods, Rear SB17's, Sub SI BM MKV's in MTI BOX. Alpine PDX-F6 -> SI Tm65 mkIV, SI M3 mkI in Valicar Stuttgart Pods

  10. Back To Top    #20

    Re: 1st build log ever. 2001 Nissan Sentra GXE

    Completing the rear part of the installation

    Completed the sound deadening for the entire rear seating area and rear doors.

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    I ran into a couple of problems when I attempted to do the rear doors.

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    I made several mistakes with the process for the rear doors but I'm glad that I made them so that I don't repeat them on the front doors where it is more important. The rear doors will not have speakers in them so although I'm kicking myself for making the mistakes it's okay.

    My thought process was to take the vapor barrier and use it as a template for the sound deadening. It sounded like a good idea at the time. Turns out that it really wasn't.

    Here are the issues that I ran into:

    1. There are way too many moving parts, open holes and wire harnesses running through the door to be able to realistically cover the entire thing in the same way that the vapor barrier does without creating issues. It looked nice but when I put the door back together the door lock wouldn't move freely so the solenoid could not activate electronically. Even after taking it apart again and attempting to move the sound deadener to allow more freedom it's still sticking a little. I tried to compensate for my error with the second door. I was a little more successful there but not much

    2. I assumed erroneously that the interior of the door is a flat plane and it isn't. So when I went to tuck everything in to the places where I needed to go, it actually shrunk the material to the point where I was unable to complete the vapor barrier idea in a single go. I had to patch in additional pieces of material to compensate.

    3. I didn't realize how tight the space is on the interior of a door. My plan was to add sound deadening to the interior metal and CCF to the interior of the plastic on the opposite side to decouple both planes. Turns out that just adding a layer of sound deadener created a lot of fit issues. I had to squeeze things back together until I was able to clip the door back to the frame. I ended up having to use the two screws to really tighten everything together enough so that the clips would even latch. The good news is considering how tight everything was there's no way it should rattle.

    4. After I got the doors together for the second time I realized that I'd fail to put sound deadener inside of the holes of the door so that the outside sheet metal wouldn't rattle.

    Dude... Yeah that all happened. I'm obviously going to have to approach the front doors in a completely different way.

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