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Thread: First time serious builder need a couple pointers

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    First time serious builder need a couple pointers

    Hi, I have a 01 Sentra and I'm planning a system with the following:
    3 Sundown U series 10' 2 ohm 1500 RMS per requires 1.0 cube ported
    Ported box 32hz 1.2 cube net per speaker

    Or 2 Sundown X-10 V.2 D2 10" 1500W RMS Dual 2-Ohm requires 1.5 cube ported
    Ported box 32hz 2.0 cube net per speaker

    1 Taramps 8k
    4 Fosgate 6.75 3 ways 60 RMS per
    1 Taramps 440/4 channel, 69 watts RMS channel
    4 Bzrk audio 1"Tweeters RS-T150 75 rms each
    1 Taramps 400/4 channel, 60 watts RMS per channel
    1 Clarion EQS 755 7 band 1/2 din equalizer
    Undecided on head unit

    For power I'm planning to use:
    The largest battery I can fit in the battery well under the hood
    270 amp custom alternator
    1 Limitless Lithium 12k
    Not sure what's a good brand of isolator to use

    Battery compartment is 11" x 7" x 8.25" height.

    Trunk is 40" x 28" x 20" height

    Trunk opening will fit a box 33" width and 17.25" height.

    Using an online box size calculator I Arrived at the following dimensions:

    Box External Dimensions
    Width × Height × Depth32.00" × 15.00" × 21.86"
    Material Thickness0.75"
    Net Internal Volume3.60 ft3 (4 if i go with the x series due to speaker displacement)
    Tuning Frequency32 Hz
    Port Area42.00 inch2
    Port Inlet Width × Height3.11" × 13.50"
    Port Length22.79"

    So this is what I've figured out so far. The 3 U series subs can be wired to 1.33 ohms at 1.2 cube per sub, but the 2 x series can be wired to 1 ohm at 2.0 cube per sub.
    What I'm not sure of is if that's enough cube for the speakers. It meets manufacturer recommendations, even a little over. But I see these guys on YouTube with these huge boxes that are way oversized for the speakers doing crazy loud stuff with the setup.

    Also, given that my trunk can fit 33 X 17.25 X 26 inches (accounting for excursion) for a sub box how much can I safely increase the box size to do that it still fits? Can anyone help to point me in the right direction and opinions on which speaker setup will be optimal?

    Thank you,

    Lewis King

  2. Back To Top    #2

    Re: First time serious builder need a couple pointers

    Quote Originally Posted by Original wis View Post
    Hi, I have a 01 Sentra and I'm planning a system with the following:
    3 Sundown U series 10' 2 ohm 1500 RMS per requires 1.0 cube ported
    Ported box 32hz 1.2 cube net per speaker
    1500w ...per sub??? Jesus - I hope you are talking flea-market watts because otherwise one of these is true:
    1) those subs are inefficient garbage, if they were to intrinsically NEED that much power to get loud
    2) 1 cu.ft. each is too small (Hoffman's Iron Law) making them horribly inefficient

    I had a trio of JL 10W6's back in the day, and I had the three of them powered on a 400w Alpine amp (so... 166w per sub) and was getting 138dB out of the trio in a low-tuned spare tire well build.
    ...and even with a 400w amp, had headlight dimming to contend with. Which a single 1F capacitor was enough to cover the alt-to-battery transients - perfect. Fixed. Done.

    Not to mention power IS heat. You'll be heating those voice coils on the daily - and if you build a subwoofer that has large enough gauge voice coils to survive that (having a legitimate 1500w RMS rating), that alone will make the subwoofer less efficient by virtue of a large moving mass - basically that's backwards thinking: "I'll buy a subwoofer that CAN handle 1500w, which means I'll need 1500w to get loud".

    Quote Originally Posted by Original wis View Post
    Or 2 Sundown X-10 V.2 D2 10" 1500W RMS Dual 2-Ohm requires 1.5 cube ported
    Ported box 32hz 2.0 cube net per speaker

    1 Taramps 8k
    4 Fosgate 6.75 3 ways 60 RMS per
    1 Taramps 440/4 channel, 69 watts RMS channel
    4 Bzrk audio 1"Tweeters RS-T150 75 rms each
    1 Taramps 400/4 channel, 60 watts RMS per channel
    1 Clarion EQS 755 7 band 1/2 din equalizer
    Undecided on head unit

    For power I'm planning to use:
    The largest battery I can fit in the battery well under the hood
    270 amp custom alternator
    1 Limitless Lithium 12k
    Not sure what's a good brand of isolator to use

    Battery compartment is 11" x 7" x 8.25" height.
    These lists make always me think people are just trying to spend money. And yet, they spec them out with cheap amps.

    The flaw in the plan here is "270 amp alternator". If you are talking about an alternator built to fit your stock location (ie. stock case), and it claims "270A", that's like flea market watts.
    What they really do is make an alternator that makes more current as it spins faster - so possibly at 6000 RPM it'll kiss 270 A (maybe), but at idle some of these barely make as much current as your stock alternator. You've got a stator and rotor in there, and factory engineers aren't inept, you know. Alternator rebuild shops don't have magic wire that's more efficient - it's all copper and magnets.
    Can you imagine having to rev the engine to 5000 RPM as you go cruising... because you designed your system to NEED that much current?

    Some SPL guys and demo vans have done it more correctly - multiple alternators working in parallel, WILL be the sum of all the alternators.
    If your factory alternator was 100A, don't expect nearly triple the output. If you want triple the output, you'll want triple the alternators.

    And either way - three alternators producing 270A or a single alternator that can produce 270A - the drag on the engine will be the same. It's a function of the spinning coil in a magnetic field. It's literally the transfer of energy, the efficiency either way will be similar. I hope you have an extra 50-100 horsepower that you are willing to lose, because your vehicle WILL be slower 100% of the time, due simply to the extra drag. It'll also get significantly worse gas mileage.

    Again - Hoffman's Iron Law. Use it to your advantage.
    If you have a system that NEEDS a 270A alternator, it's designed wrong, in my opinion.

    Build the sub box to give you efficiency.
    Buy a subwoofer that is efficient in that enclosure.
    And buy an amp that supplies the power for that specific, efficient installation.
    That's the correct order for the shopping list.

    Even if you are an SPL competitor, it makes more sense to just charge up a stack of batteries to cover your burp needs during the competition. Done that in plenty of our old demo vans... even the ones that had a couple 10kw amps onboard.

    Quote Originally Posted by Original wis View Post
    Trunk is 40" x 28" x 20" height

    Trunk opening will fit a box 33" width and 17.25" height.

    Using an online box size calculator I Arrived at the following dimensions:

    Box External Dimensions
    Width × Height × Depth32.00" × 15.00" × 21.86"
    Material Thickness0.75"
    Net Internal Volume3.60 ft3 (4 if i go with the x series due to speaker displacement)
    Tuning Frequency32 Hz
    Port Area42.00 inch2
    Port Inlet Width × Height3.11" × 13.50"
    Port Length22.79"

    So this is what I've figured out so far. The 3 U series subs can be wired to 1.33 ohms at 1.2 cube per sub, but the 2 x series can be wired to 1 ohm at 2.0 cube per sub.
    What I'm not sure of is if that's enough cube for the speakers. It meets manufacturer recommendations, even a little over. But I see these guys on YouTube with these huge boxes that are way oversized for the speakers doing crazy loud stuff with the setup.

    Also, given that my trunk can fit 33 X 17.25 X 26 inches (accounting for excursion) for a sub box how much can I safely increase the box size to do that it still fits? Can anyone help to point me in the right direction and opinions on which speaker setup will be optimal?

    Thank you,

    Lewis King
    Hoffman's Iron Law states
    These three things are mutually exclusive:
    1) high efficiency (loudness per watt)
    2) low frequency extension (how low it'll play)
    3) small enclosure size

    The larger your enclosure, the less power you'll need to get loud.
    The lower you tune your enclosure, the less loud it will be capable of getting.
    The smaller you make your enclosure, the less loud it will be capable of getting, and will not be capable of playing as low.

    This is exactly why SPL competitors have such high tuning frequencies and large enclosures. They tune to the measured vehicle's resonance, with a vented box specifically designed to minimize cone excursion at tuning, then they can stuff thousands of watts into it (at least for a burp) without reaching the excursion limits (ie. physically bottoming/blowing the sub), and cutting off the burp before thermal limits (ie. overheating/smoking/blowing the sub).
    You literally can't play music in an SPL competitor's system, at least not loud. The tuning is so high that a 20hz note would bottom the subs out with very little power, physically damaging them.

    It's why a "boom car" isn't a good SPL competition car. A boom car you have to build to play ALL frequencies, and a boom car you want to build to survive driving and cruising - NOT sending 1500w through each sub for hours, like an SPL competitor does for 5 second burps.
    A boom car is usually tuned too high to be good for SQ, results in a peaky boomy response - and yet it's tuned too low to be anywhere close to competitive in an SPL competition, even if you had an amp strong enough to burp it.
    ...and even if you did, you wouldn't need an alternator, because you are only burping for a few seconds at a time.

    It's all Hoffman's Iron Law.
    Design for efficiency - even for a boom car - and you won't need an alternator and all the associated power cabling capable of carrying the 270A (which I don't see you mentioning four runs of 1/0 gauge from the front to the amp rack).

    Plus - tens? For SPL?
    Getting loud is all about displacement. How much air you can move.
    In a sealed box, that's simply cone area x excursion. (and SPL subs are NOT designed for excursion - they are designed to maximize BL, which is ONLY good for competition)
    In a vented box, you have the combined displacement of the cone/excursion, plus the displacement of the moving column of air in the vent, sent into resonance inside the enclosure by the backside of the sub. So you can gain some dB.
    You could run a sealed 12 in a "recommended" box or a vented 10 in about the same size box (vented boxes are always larger), and they'd produce about the same dB level SPL.

    If you go sealed though, you would be shopping for a different subwoofer - something with the most displacement capability - the most Xmax (REAL Xmax, not two-way, not flea-market-BS). Your efficiency will be solely dependent on the size of your enclosure.
    Hoffman's Iron Law says - the bigger you go, the louder you'll be, and the less power you'll need, and the lower it'll be able to extend.

    If you go vented, in a way you don't even need as much power then, because the sub enclosure already gains you extra efficiency. My 32hz tune in about 6 cu.ft. total was MORE than enough for my trio of 10W6's. 166w RMS each was fine - I think with 200w each I might have been near their excursion limits at tuning. And they were rated for 300w RMS back then. So I was always running them cool, not hot. Still, my door panels "breathed", I could flip quarters with my open sunroof with 30hz tones, my mirror dropped to face my dash, and people heard me coming from blocks away. 400w. It's way more fun when people are saying "That's only 400w?".

    What's your goal?

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Re: First time serious builder need a couple pointers

    So smaller amp and less powerful subs?

    3 of the SA-10 D4 Dual 4-Ohm 750W RMS
    3 10" speakers have more cone area then one 15" or two 12" and will also fit better in my small trunk.
    Taramps smart 3k
    Smaller box too like a 4.0 cube?
    32hz tune

    So basically smaller everything will still get too loud for a daily driver? Even if I'm looking for like, stupid insane daily bass?

    Example. My buddy has 2 NVX 15's custom box on 2500 RMS in his Hummer and it's not loud enough for me. Before that he had 1 sundown zvx 15 on 1500 RMS, still want louder though.

    That's why I'm planning big. So I can have too loud for me and still have headroom to grow into it.

    I've done smaller systems before. Had 2 Orion 12" on 600 RMS, had 2 P3's on 1500 RMS, currently have 2 Sony 12" on 400 RMS to keep me interested until I can finally get really loud. Each of those systems rattled my rearview mirror until it became
    basically useless as well.

    If I can do that in my daily by going smaller I'm down. I just don't want to be ripping it out in 6 months because it isn't loud enough.
    And when i get dissatisfied with it, there goes another 2000 in cash to upgrade. I'd rather spend 3500 now and keep it for a couple years at least.

    Did I miss anything?

    Lewis King
    Last edited by Original wis; 03-07-2022 at 01:13 AM.

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    Senior Member Euphonic's Avatar
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    Re: First time serious builder need a couple pointers

    Quote Originally Posted by Original wis View Post
    So smaller amp and less powerful subs?

    3 of the SA-10 D4 Dual 4-Ohm 750W RMS
    3 10" speakers have more cone area then one 15" or two 12" and will also fit better in my small trunk.
    Taramps smart 3k
    Smaller box too like a 4.0 cube?
    32hz tune
    The Taramps Smart 3 is not a subwoofer amplifier. If it were, it wouldn't be designed to play up to 10kHz. I would pick a different amp with more heatsink area for daily use.

    So basically smaller everything will still get too loud for a daily driver? Even if I'm looking for like, stupid insane daily bass?

    Example. My buddy has 2 NVX 15's custom box on 2500 RMS in his Hummer and it's not loud enough for me. Before that he had 1 sundown zvx 15 on 1500 RMS, still want louder though.
    If your buddy has 2 15's in an SUV with 2500 watts you are going to have trouble duplicating or exceeding that with 3 10's in the trunk of a car. Do you need the back seat of the car?

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Re: First time serious builder need a couple pointers

    Quote Originally Posted by Euphonic View Post
    The Taramps Smart 3 is not a subwoofer amplifier. If it were, it wouldn't be designed to play up to 10kHz. I would pick a different amp with more heatsink area for daily use.



    If your buddy has 2 15's in an SUV with 2500 watts you are going to have trouble duplicating or exceeding that with 3 10's in the trunk of a car. Do you need the back seat of the car?
    Unfortunately I do. I'm thinking that since my little Sentra is like half the size of a Hummer that it'll be easier to increase beyond his system by planning ahead and figuring out where the sweet spot for spl will be for daily use.

    Idk though. Either way I'm putting something loud in the car so may as well go big.

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    Senior Member chithead's Avatar
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    Re: First time serious builder need a couple pointers

    Could depend on which NVX 15's he's using as well. If they're the solid black cone VSW, I could see that. If they are the woven cone VCW - could be a tuning or improper power issue.

    A trio of 10's for sure would help - no replacement for displacement. Unless you have a good amount of excursion, which Sundown rarely falls short in that department.

    Do you have access to WinISD or another plotting program? That would absolutely help with which combination and tuning.
    Are you not entertained?!?!


  7. Back To Top    #7

    Re: First time serious builder need a couple pointers

    Quote Originally Posted by chithead View Post
    Could depend on which NVX 15's he's using as well. If they're the solid black cone VSW, I could see that. If they are the woven cone VCW - could be a tuning or improper power issue.

    A trio of 10's for sure would help - no replacement for displacement. Unless you have a good amount of excursion, which Sundown rarely falls short in that department.

    Do you have access to WinISD or another plotting program? That would absolutely help with which combination and tuning.
    I don't. I have a free box calculator and since the subs are rated at 35hz i guessed that 32 would still be safe. I can realistically build a bigger box but I estimated conservatively in case of shenanigans. I looked at 3 12's as well but that exceeds the trunk space.

    Can 3 12's in a sealed enclosure realistically get louder than 3 10's ported?

  8. Back To Top    #8

    Re: First time serious builder need a couple pointers

    Quote Originally Posted by Original wis View Post
    So smaller amp and less powerful subs?

    3 of the SA-10 D4 Dual 4-Ohm 750W RMS
    3 10" speakers have more cone area then one 15" or two 12" and will also fit better in my small trunk.
    Taramps smart 3k
    Smaller box too like a 4.0 cube?
    32hz tune

    So basically smaller everything will still get too loud for a daily driver? Even if I'm looking for like, stupid insane daily bass?

    Example. My buddy has 2 NVX 15's custom box on 2500 RMS in his Hummer and it's not loud enough for me. Before that he had 1 sundown zvx 15 on 1500 RMS, still want louder though.

    That's why I'm planning big. So I can have too loud for me and still have headroom to grow into it.

    I've done smaller systems before. Had 2 Orion 12" on 600 RMS, had 2 P3's on 1500 RMS, currently have 2 Sony 12" on 400 RMS to keep me interested until I can finally get really loud. Each of those systems rattled my rearview mirror until it became
    basically useless as well.

    If I can do that in my daily by going smaller I'm down. I just don't want to be ripping it out in 6 months because it isn't loud enough.
    And when i get dissatisfied with it, there goes another 2000 in cash to upgrade. I'd rather spend 3500 now and keep it for a couple years at least.

    Did I miss anything?

    Lewis King
    I don't hate on NVX - but consider it's really just Sonic Electronix (online web retailer) house brand. They design budget products, but I don't know that they even really "design" them.
    There are lots of Chinese build-houses who offer any assembly of salad-bar sub-parts for cheap. When you consider that even within brands I used to sell like Kicker, there are some subs in their lineup that really stand out and punch above their weight class - and Kicker has top-notch engineers... you aren't going to beat what Kicker is doing when you are running a retail shop and you give China a call and say "I want to sell a subwoofer on my online store", you know what I mean?
    I'm actually surprised to hear that NVX has a subwoofer that can handle 1250w RMS each. But that's beside the point.

    You'll have to quantify what "not loud enough" is, for example - 138dB to me is the edge of ear-pain discomfort. My own personal ride was about 136 - 137dB, and that was satisfying. It was louder than lots of boom-car guys even. I needed to have that in part because for a real "demo system", you need it to be able to impress anyone from the SQ side through the boom-car crowd.
    And again - I could hit that number on 400w.

    Power is the worst way to get loud. Here's why:
    Every time you double your power, you only gain 3dB. JL audio worded it well:
    "A change of 3 dB is accepted as the smallest difference in level that is easily heard by most listeners listening to speech or music. It is a slight increase or decrease in volume. To produce an increase of +3 dB you simply need to double power (watts)."
    That also assumes no heat losses, which isn't realistic - because the more power you send into a voice coil, the more heat that is produced. So it's actually LESS than 3dB gained. When you are talking about some crazy power like - a thousand watts per sub - you definitely have heat losses. You even risk heat being so great your voice coil glue lets loose.

    And again - Hoffman's Iron Law. It's EASY to ruin a sub's efficiency - and/or it's frequency response, with the box. You can create a "one note wonder" box that hits SO hard on that one song... and literally everything else is just "meh - where's the bass?" So part of me thinks you just heard a song that hit hard in some other car, played it in that hummer, and it was "meh" - which might, or might not be a reflection of that system.
    Or maybe it was a song you thought would thunder because it was so low - and his system is tuned high for max SPL so it barely hit that.
    Or maybe it was a song you heard in an SPL car that was really more like 60hz, but your buddy had more of a SQ tune that hit the low stuff like 20, 30hz hard - and cabin gain would make 60hz a good 10dB less.
    But I suspect it could have been a whole bunch of alignment/tuning issues plus a box that would have to be tiny, if it was getting 2500w and NOT bottoming out with angry silverware drawer noises.
    And it could even be a 2500w amp - that's turned down to 1000w because the subs can't handle more without bottoming.
    My point here is - there's a million ways that what you heard might not even be what you thought you heard.

    Back to the power -
    If I took my 400w trio of tens system and instead put them in their "recommended" enclosures of 0.6 cu.ft. each sealed, let's say I would have been at a very SQ-pleasant but unimpressive 124dB - with actually a pretty similar response to what I had in my huge hidden-vented box... a little shallower roll-off slope but close enough for government work.

    400w = 124dB
    800w = 127dB
    1600w = 131dB
    3200w = 135dB

    ...of course that would have smoked my 300w subs... and even still, I'm not as loud as I actually was on a mere 400w.
    Of course, the fact that the subs were 300w subs and not 3000w subs is a reason they were efficient, with lower moving mass and more compliant suspensions. But I beat that point to death previously.
    So why would you try to pursue "loud" with "power"? Power increases heat MUCH more than increasing efficiency.

    Not to mention, the current draw is also doubled each time you double power - and again worse, because there' heat losses there as well.
    And current draw means you need to spend crazy money turning your electrical system into something radically different...
    ...which makes your ENGINE less efficient, so it's slower and more of a gas guzzler. And that's less fun even if most alternator makers weren't con artists with their ratings.


    So again - start with this:
    What's your goal? What are you looking to build? Is this just a boom car?
    If it is, are you OK with it being a one-note-wonder? What do you want it to hit on? Don't say "everything"...:

    Bear in mind most boom cars are one-note wonders with a list of specific tracks that "have" that narrow band of frequencies in them...
    That's also a function of Hoffman's Iron Law. If you build a big box (sacrificing "small enclosure"), and you tune it high (sacrificing "low bass extension") you can make it VERY efficient at the frequencies that are left - stuff above 40, 50hz.

    With my 400w system, I could have tuned it to 40hz rather than 30hz, and I would definitely have hit over 140dB - probably somewhere over 142dB even. But it wouldn't have played anything between 20hz and 40hz - in fact it would have bottomed out trying to play 20hz (which is one reason subsonic filters exist).

    Finally-
    You said it yourself.
    You were unimpressed with a system you heard with tons of power and LARGE cone subs.
    A system with large power and SMALL cone subs will be proportionally less loud. Three tens are roughly what one 15 will put out - so about 6dB less loud than that Hummer system. Doubling your power would only get 3dB of that back - but then you need subs that are intrinsically less efficient because they are BUILT to handle that much more power, so you might actually gain 0dB in comparison to a different sub on less power.
    It's all a balancing act.
    Engineering.

    This is why specs are important... to shop by, to build by. They tell you what that sub is made of.

    So - what do you want to try to build? What do you want it to do, what do you want it to sound like? What are you willing to sacrifice - trunk space? OK with giving up low frequencies? Do you want it to "hit everything"? What actual dB numbers are your goal?
    Quantifying it is the only way to really know what you heard... dB at a certain frequency, or dB on a particular song.
    And then, we can improve it from there.

    But like I always say - "SPL subs" are terrible for a boom car, terrible for a SQ car - most of them are even terrible for SPL competition. I once swapped a wall of Fusion field-reconable "SPL Competition" subs (six 15's) with some mid-level MA Audio 15s that weren't selling, that we were going to blow for fun after the comp - and just by swapping I gained something crazy like 8dB. The SPL subs were just ridiculously stiff and heavy - probably your buddy's problem too.

    Surprisingly, when we did try to blow the subs after the competition was over, during the "fun runs", I cranked the amp gains as high as they went and let 50hz fly for something like a full minute - and those damn crappy MA Audio subs didn't even blow.

    So if I haven't said it five times already:
    What's your goal? What do you want it to be? To play? To sound like? to reach, dB wise?

  9. Back To Top    #9

    Re: First time serious builder need a couple pointers

    My goal is to have a daily driver that I can turn up as loud as I want to by using as much of the trunk space possible. In a box size that I can remove of needed. The amps I'm going to screw into the metal of the rear seats but mounted on wood. I don't want to tamper with the functionality of the rear seats. There's enough there that the amps for voice will fit there. As for the bass amp and battery there's space behind the rear wheel well to mount both. For a small car there's a surprising amount of trunk space. I can make a box that's nearly 4.25 to 5 cube in there and be able to remove it at will. That's even accounting for things like double baffle and tuning.

    My musical tastes, all over the place. Battle rap, Joyner Lucas, Little Durk, Edm progressive, deep house, minimal, trap music, everything rock from Cradle of Filth to Hinder Blue October, Atreyu, Children of Bodom, Industrial, like there's a lot in there. So I'm thinking I need a good mix of sound quality with big bass, depending on what I'm listening to that day. That's also why I want an equalizer below the radio with knobs that I can turn on the fly without looking at it so I can continually tune to whatever my preference is at that time without having to pull over whenever I switch genres. Purple Lamborghini with Skrillex and Everyday (Netsky mix) are 2 good examples of the bass ranges that I like. Actually, Cracks by Belle Humble trap remix as well.

    Idk what decibel range I'm looking for I've never measured it. Never been to a car show or a place where things like that are common. I'm going strictly by ear. Deep bass is the best; the higher ranges are what I'm guessing would create the pain threshold issue.

    Since starting this thread I've been looking at other setups that I didn't realize were possible. Like 4 12's upfiring in sealed enclosure at a lower wattage cost. That looks too be a better setup than ported based on my music preferences. It'll be a smaller enclosure which will leave trunk space and drop like, 500 watts RMS speakers in which will be much more affordable cost wise while making really good use of trunk space to get what I'm looking for. But even with that there's things like adding material inside for louder sq bass, do you increase the box size by a little less than ported for lower bass and some thing some guy named Thiele discovered that matches with excursion, Vas and the rest of those numbers that I've researched and still cannot figure out.

    I've watched like, every amp Dyno that i could find on YouTube from Steve Meade to Williston audio. I was mainly looking for efficiency vs cost and Taramps did well so I thought, why not try them?

    Your probably right about my buddy's NVX's. He showed me the Rockford Fosgate amp before it was installed though. He may have swapped out for something else or turned it down idk. Either way not really loud enough for me though.

    And I'm realizing that I'm more confused now than when I started this thread. If that helps any.

    Lewis King
    Last edited by Original wis; 03-08-2022 at 01:28 AM.

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    Senior Member Euphonic's Avatar
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    Re: First time serious builder need a couple pointers

    And I'm realizing that I'm more confused now than when I started this thread. If that helps any.
    Hey, me too.

    I've watched like, every amp Dyno that i could find on YouTube from Steve Meade to Williston audio. I was mainly looking for efficiency vs cost and Taramps did well so I thought, why not try them?

    Your probably right about my buddy's NVX's. He showed me the Rockford Fosgate amp before it was installed though. He may have swapped out for something else or turned it down idk. Either way not really loud enough for me though.
    This might be an unpopular opinion, but I dislike amp dynos. They don't serve much of a purpose in the actual use of the amplifier. For example, I'm happy your amp will do 1000 watts at one frequency with a resistive load, but how does it actually perform on a reactive load in the bandwidth you need it to play? Let's look at the Rockford Fosgate T2500-1bdCP (which is the amp I assume your buddy has). Per Rockford, it has a dynamic power of 2940 watts @ 2 ohm and 2980 watts @ 1 ohm. They also state that it's 77.7% efficient @ 2 ohms and 64.5% efficient @ 1 ohm. With those numbers, there is simply no reason to run it at 1 ohm. Another spec listed on their site is that it's max current draw with a sinewave is 350 amps, while it's average current draw with music is 175. So, if it outputs 2980 watts with a tone, it will average 1490 watts with music.

    There's no way to predict if the system you're planning will give you the end result you're looking for. I've been in vehicles that hit a bit over 150db on a meter, but sound louder with music than others that were in the low 160's. The best advice I can give you is to buy quality gear and use it as intended.
    Last edited by Euphonic; 03-08-2022 at 11:04 AM.

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