Filling voids? What do you use..

[DubScientist]

^^ Nice video.

[Chris12]

I’d never seen mass loading foam like that before. Looks like it’ll cost a pretty penny, especially with current shipping prices, but may be my best option
http://uscomposites.com/foam.html

[geolemon]

That one you linked is the lightest one -the 2lb density foam. The denser the foam, the more sound it can stop and more effective for damping vibrations as well.
Think of it as "the more dense the foam, the closer to turning your door into a solid piece it is".

I think they have other densities - US Composites seems to have everything.

In retrospect, I'm half regretting filling all my door panel cavities with CCF... but at least I killed a case of it that I had in storage.

[Chris12]

I’ll definitely research which foam density would be best suited for the doors before I purchase.

For SQ, I’m sure it would be awesome if I had 100 lbs. of foam in each door, but on the flip side, I’m not sure if my hinges would appreciate all that weight

[Smitty]

For those door panels - I think I have a far easier and more invisible method.

Looking at that grill area on the door, I would just find the correct size drill bit that matches the tiny holes in the grille area, then move down and drill out the "fake holes" below what's open now. Turn that fake portion of the grill into more real grille. There's a pretty good amount of potential opening down there, it looks like.

With a careful job, it'll look 100% OEM, too.

If you have any noise/chuffing after that (which I don't expect, even with eights), then a more extreme approach might be needed, but I'd try that first.

I think the Thinsulate would be a great idea - I haven't ever had that available locally, so I haven't used it. It should be better in all ways than my "multiple layers of CCF" including it'll block more sound, not just absorb reflections.
Still mostly high frequency content, but that ain't nothing, as they say!

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

This is what I did with my 4runner doors when I put 8's in them. It worked very well. I highly recommend trying this before taking the saw to the panels.

[DubScientist]

I'm all for going ape with stuff like this, but one has to wonder how much good any of this expense & effort does when on the freeway, etc.

For example, the windows are where all of the noise comes into my car, and there's no way of getting around that beyond using thicker glass.

If it's a daily driver, IMO there is definitely a point in the sound-proofing/deadening process where the return on investment & time nosedives.

[geolemon]

I'm all for going ape with stuff like this, but one has to wonder how much good any of this expense & effort does when on the freeway, etc.

For example, the windows are where all of the noise comes into my car, and there's no way of getting around that beyond using thicker glass.

If it's a daily driver, IMO there is definitely a point in the sound-proofing/deadening process where the return on investment & time nosedives.

If Rolls Royce can get a near silent highway experience, you can also.

Sure, tire selection options factor in.
Sure, exhaust tuning factors in.
Sure, suspension bushings factor in.
So for sure - factor them into your expectations

Notice Bentley doesn't make a monster truck fat tire tread diesel motor hellcat straightpipe drone exhaust muscle car, so sure if you are asking about wondering if you can "noiseproof" a rolling rumble drone roar machine, sure that's unrealistic.

Or if you are asking "can I spend lots of money on materials and not realize I'm making mistakes"
- YES that's absolutely possible.
Especially with MLV. Less so with CLD and CCF. More so with general techniques to secure wires, seal holes, secure and tension (and even replace) "things that buzz".

But if you do the job right and have a car that's not a rolling paradox (no megaphone exhaust and knobby tires) - you can get a Maybach quiet ride.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk