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Thread: To upgrade or not

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    To upgrade or not

    Hey, I'm currently running:
    Toppin D10 DAC
    Alpine 9853 Head Unit
    Dayton DSP 408
    Stetsom HL1200.4 x2 Amps (Highs, mid and midbass)
    Stetsom EX3500 x1 Amp
    Ground Zero GZUT 25SQX Tweeters
    Ground Zero GZUF 60SQ Mids
    Polk Audio db6501 Midbass
    Power Bass 3xl 12" x2

    The system is fully tuned and sounds great, images very well and bass is upfront, seems I am one of the lucky ones with the Dayton DSP. The dsp though..... I am thinking about changing it, but seeing that an IASCA judge here (Caribbean) has heard the system and loves it, I am wondering if there is any benefit to changing to say a Helix DSP.3.

  2. Back To Top    #2

    Re: To upgrade or not

    If there is nothing that you've identified that needs fixing, and then no way to fix it... it seems like ther eis not technical reason to change things.

    "sounds great" and "Judges love it" are further reasons to bank the money for later. IMO

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Re: To upgrade or not

    Quote Originally Posted by Holmz View Post
    If there is nothing that you've identified that needs fixing, and then no way to fix it... it seems like ther eis not technical reason to change things.

    "sounds great" and "Judges love it" are further reasons to bank the money for later. IMO
    well that just hit hard lol, there really isn't a technical reason for it. Was wondering if the Helix would offer more resolution or somehow improve what i am currently getting.
    Toppin D10 DAC, Alpine 9853 Head Unit, Dayton DSP 408, Stetsom HL1200.4 x2, Stetsom EX3500 x1, Ground Zero GZUT 25SQX Tweeters, Ground Zero GZUF 60SQ Mids, Polk Audio db6501 Midbass, Power Bass 3xl 12" x2

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    Member Captain Buff's Avatar
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    Re: To upgrade or not

    I’m with Holmz 100%. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it man! The curiosity may always be there to try something else but for my two cents: if you like it as it is then be happy and move on to something else!!

    Just a personal note but I’m pretty sure car audio judges would laugh at my system. It’s tuned for heavy rock/metal/prog rock...it will never win a ‘participation certificate’. My ears are what I go by. Just a thought...of course if you compete then what I said is completely irrelevant.

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Re: To upgrade or not

    Quote Originally Posted by vectrasoundz View Post
    well that just hit hard lol, there really isn't a technical reason for it. Was wondering if the Helix would offer more resolution or somehow improve what i am currently getting.
    - Doing it because it gives some joy maybe a good non technical reason.
    - Or for the same $ would something else bring more joy?
    - If you were going from Helix to MiniDSP pr something else, then it seems like it would be more of a chin scratcher.

    It is like people wanting to do a personal best every time at the track... At some point, really good, is probably good enough.

    without an objective reason, you can either believe it will make a difference and change it.
    or change it and believe it made a difference.
    In both cases it is purely subjective.

  6. Back To Top    #6

    Re: To upgrade or not

    looking atthe list of equipment, i think the midbass and the subs are your weak link, not the DSP.
    2018 Crosstrek Helix P-Six DSP Mk2 AF GB15 AF GB25 AF GS690 Audiomobile Evo 8(2) PPI Art Series A600.2

  7. Back To Top    #7
    Noob JCsAudio's Avatar
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    Re: To upgrade or not

    The Dayton will clip before the HELIX will but if your listening habits don’t exceed the limits then no reason to change it. I’ve had HELIX, and still have Dayton and JL. I’ve also had the Polk db6501 midwoofer a long time ago and I know for a fact that driver can be improved with an upgrade, a least for a 2-way, but in a 3-way it might actually be good if kept within its limits.

    Best and worst thing you can do is find a meet and go and listen to some well tuned vehicles with the equipment you want to hear. It’s good because it will give you a good idea on what to expect but its bad because it may also cost you more money when you realize you want what they have, lol.

    I agree with what everyone above said too. A low distortion subwoofer makes a bigger difference than many people give credit for.
    Mazda CX5 AF GB10, AF GB25, AF GB60, JL VX800/8i, AF GB12 sealed, Mmats M1400.1

    Ford F150
    AF GB10, AF GB25, JLC5, JL twk88/Pioneer D8604, Mosconi Pico, JBL Club 5501, Sundown SD3-10 ported @ 30 Hz

    Sienna
    AF GB15, Audiofrog GS690, JL twk88/Pioneer D9500F, JBL GTX500, Alpine SWS10 ported @ 31 Hz

    https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threa.../#post-5608901






  8. Back To Top    #8

    Re: To upgrade or not

    Actually decided to change the subs, will leave everything else as is. The problem I have is persons here are not heavy into SQ, so having certain equipment to listen to won't happen.
    Toppin D10 DAC, Alpine 9853 Head Unit, Dayton DSP 408, Stetsom HL1200.4 x2, Stetsom EX3500 x1, Ground Zero GZUT 25SQX Tweeters, Ground Zero GZUF 60SQ Mids, Polk Audio db6501 Midbass, Power Bass 3xl 12" x2

  9. Back To Top    #9
    Noob JCsAudio's Avatar
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    Re: To upgrade or not

    It looks like Ground Zero makes nice equipment. Maybe you can go with one of their midwoofers and subwoofers in the same line you already have. https://www.ground-zero-audio.com/en...linie/uranium/
    Mazda CX5 AF GB10, AF GB25, AF GB60, JL VX800/8i, AF GB12 sealed, Mmats M1400.1

    Ford F150
    AF GB10, AF GB25, JLC5, JL twk88/Pioneer D8604, Mosconi Pico, JBL Club 5501, Sundown SD3-10 ported @ 30 Hz

    Sienna
    AF GB15, Audiofrog GS690, JL twk88/Pioneer D9500F, JBL GTX500, Alpine SWS10 ported @ 31 Hz

    https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threa.../#post-5608901






  10. Back To Top    #10

    Re: To upgrade or not

    I made the jump from Dayton to a Helix DSP.3 last fall. I'll go into further details on my personal experiences below, but the TLDR is that the Helix is a better-sounding unit (though not a huge difference), with much more tuning potential, but at a significantly higher cost than the Dayton (especially if you load up on accessories like a USB HEC card and Director like I did). In terms of bang for the buck, it does not come close to the Dayton, it's really impressive how good you can get a system to sound with the Dayton DSP.

    Ok, wordy time, here's my personal observations:

    I'm using a Fiio M3 Pro as my source, playing FLAC and high-bitrate AAC files. Using the USB output of the Fiio to the USB HEC card is noticeably crisper and cleaner than using the line output to the analog inputs of the Dayton was. The Helix can also take an optical digital input.

    The Helix has auto-source switching, which is very useful as I have my factory head-unit going into it as well for fm radio and hands-free calls (I'm an on-call broadcast tech). If I'm listening to the Fiio, the Helix will automatically switch over to the head unit when a call comes in.

    The Helix has a noticeably lower noise floor than the Dayton.

    The Helix is a little overkill in terms of EQ bands, but it's nice to have too many rather than not enough. The 10 bands of the Dayton was barely enough for midrange, considering I was using 2 bands for high and low shelf eq.

    The Helix has a tone control option, which sets an adjustable system-wide high or low shelf filter via the Director. I find it's great for bass, much better than a subwoofer level adjustment when you want to give something some extra oomph or back things down, since it effects the midbasses as well.

    The Helix has a few audio effects options to try out. Personally, I like the Stage Expander, which gives a sense of a wider soundstage without losing too much center image.

    I do miss having the ability to tweak the Dayton via a phone app/bluetooth. The app was a little buggy, but it was nice for making quick tuning tweaks without having to bust out the laptop.
    '18 VW Golf Sportwagen 4motion 6MT. Hiby RS6 to Helix DSP.3 (Balanced Analog). Amps: Biketronics BT4210 (210 x 4 mids/tweets), Biketronics BT3725 (250 x 2 midbasses, 700 x 1 sub). Mids: Satori MW13P-4 5" (Factory Door Locations). Tweets: Bliesma T25S-6 Silk-Dome 1" (Modded Factory A-Pillar Locations). Midbasses: Dayton Designer DSA175-8 6.5" in Ported Underseat Enclosures. Subs: 2 x Scanspeak Discovery 10" in Underfloor Sealed Enclosure.

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