Tuning midbass drivers...the struggle continues

[JerryGash]

After doing a bunch of reading on this forum and recently upgrading my HU I decided to start playing with my tune again.

I have a 3 way active system and a Helix.2 DSP.

I've always struggled with midbass in this car. I know that factory door locations are not ideal for midbass but this is my daily driver.

Moving them to kicks is tempting but I'm not sure it's worth it.

I would like to build some test boxes to see how the response is affected. I guess if it's a night a day difference, putting in the work to build custom boxes in a different location could be worth it.

I should also note I entered my first IASCA competition last summer and wouldn't mind doing it again and see if I can get a better score. Not sure if building kicks is the first choice in obtaining better scores.

Do these measurements look typical for an 8" driver in a small sedan? No XO or EQ in these measurements, around 50 samples with spatial averaging at 1/24.

The right mid bass driver measures like complete crap. I get this is probably due to modes in the car but other than set the XO's and just smash peaks with EQ I dont really know what else to do.




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[dumdum]

Can you fit an enclosure for them under the front seats?

[JerryGash]

Can you fit an enclosure for them under the front seats?

Nothing of any real volume.
I built these fugly things a couple years ago. They were sealed now they are ported into the door.

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[Ge0]

Nothing of any real volume.
I built these fugly things a couple years ago. They were sealed now they are ported into the door.

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Share a little bit about the construction of those ugly baffles . Also, what midbass are you using?

Ge0

[JerryGash]

Share a little bit about the construction of those ugly baffles . Also, what midbass are you using?

Ge0

How about some build pics?

All built with half inch MDF.

This was pretty much my first time doing any fab work. First time using a router as well. I had intentions of contouring them more so they better match the cars interior but ended up rushing them mainly because I wanted to hear what sealed mid bass drivers sounded like.

I can't remember the actual volume I ended up with but they ended up much smaller than I had hoped. I built them for Peerless SLS, and have since had Steven's Audio MB8-2's, and am now using AD Sw800's.

I ended up cutting 4" vent directly behind the driver before installing the MB8's. They are very heavy and stout and do help cut down on rattles inside the door which is heavily dampened.

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[dumdum]

Nothing of any real volume.
I built these fugly things a couple years ago. They were sealed now they are ported into the door.

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ok, do you have five inches at the front of the seat? I’m thinking the best midbass you can get in the simplest way is a set of hybrid unity 6x9 on a baffle IB through the floor ����

[Jdunk54nl]

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To me that seems like A LOT of drop off at like 150hz for an 8" driver that is designed to really be a subwoofer and should increase at 150hz plus cabin gain. Either that is a crappy 8" driver or something else is going on. The AD SW800 does only have 2.3mm xmax according to Erin H's review of them (here: https://www.erinsaudiocorner.com/dri...lopment_sw800/)

I would say based on Erin's results (also looing at his winisd modeling) and what you have.....Something isn't right....I think you have box design issues..at least that would be my guess.

[JerryGash]

To me that seems like A LOT of drop off at like 150hz for an 8" driver that is designed to really be a subwoofer and should increase at 150hz plus cabin gain. Either that is a crappy 8" driver or something else is going on. The AD SW800 does only have 2.3mm xmax according to Erin H's review of them (here: https://www.erinsaudiocorner.com/dri...lopment_sw800/)

I would say based on Erin's results (also looing at his winisd modeling) and what you have.....Something isn't right....I think you have box design issues..at least that would be my guess.

Agreed, I may completely hog out the back of the enclosure to ensure the "vent" isn't causing an issue. I was assuming a 4" hole directly behind the driver would be enough to make the enclosure seem "acoustically transparent" but that was just a guess at best.

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[Pb82 Ronin]

Why use a "box" at all? Is it not possible to just run an adapter and use the door as the box (like a factory install)? I run an 8" Dayton woofer in my door (in a Corvette) and it only took 2 EQs to get it almost perfectly flat. Another question is, what is yours doing? When you make EQ changes, does the curve even move?

[JerryGash]

Why use a "box" at all? Is it not possible to just run an adapter and use the door as the box (like a factory install)? I run an 8" Dayton woofer in my door (in a Corvette) and it only took 2 EQs to get it almost perfectly flat. Another question is, what is yours doing? When you make EQ changes, does the curve even move?

Now they are vented there is no point.

I used to run some 8" drivers directly in my doors with the help of some spacer rings. I didn't want to spend the time or money to properly deaden and insulate the doors. I also wanted to experiment with sealed enclosures so these were built.

Once I realized the volume was far smaller than I had hoped I vented them.

They do still help reduce resonance inside the door panel but are really more of a baffle than a box at this point.


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