Bought the Civic Hatch lease out, so rebooting the install thread

[geolemon]

Pla melted in my car… in the U.K.! It was warm, but not silly, 20-25 degrees outside I reckon… I’d made tweeter cups on angled brackets and had them aimed between the headrests… I ended up with them aimed at the floor between the seats petg is far more stable in heat

The ASA I picked up is interesting in that you print it - really no different performance than PLA - other than then you can anneal it in the kitchen oven which makes it more heat resistant than ABS.

This is a great vid from a true 3D printing geek, going through more filament types than i even knew existed - and he only covers home-printable plastics here!

https://youtu.be/vSwumoSlZTo

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

[geolemon]

So, due to a project deadline I'm managing at my day job that could produce millions in fines if we don't hit a 7/1 deadline - I haven't had much time to work on this. "Evenings and weekends" in full effect last week and this week as well.

Actually - multitasking led me to inadvertently landing in the ER...
I thought I could pop a 3D print off the table between meetings, it slipped, I stabbed myself with a sharpened putty knife in the palm of my hand - I got stitches.

Trying to position these heavy subs to get my baffle angle and location was ALREADY difficult without injury...

So I made a subwoofer analog based on the JBL and W7's dimensions that I can use to test-suspend a baffle with less structure needed.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

[BigAl205]

That's a good idea

[Stycker]

I just watched an episode of Horsepower Garage. They use styrofoam engines to see how much space is available in the engine bay, rather than having to hoist the heavy engine in and out all the time.

[geolemon]

I can tell already - these subs motors are SO deep, it's going to be tough to find an angle to allow me to swap subs.

I could fire them straight up, but then they'll be trapped so I'd have to remove the whole enclosure and amp rack just to swap the sub...
I'll probably have to relocate the left brace and 'glass a bubble out the backside to allow the sub the angle without eating into my hatch space.

I also don't just want the sub to fire straight in, also because "hatch space" and I don't want things rolling into my sub.

So we'll see where the best compromise angle is, with this fake sub.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

[geolemon]

So I think I have an angle -at least I have found the "most upright" angle I can achieve.
This is a scrap of wood, not the final shape. Just for a test fit:

First picture is the GTi. Rear clearance is good.

Second picture is the W7 - since it has a smaller mounting hole, there will be a spacer ring specific to installing the W7, so it'll actually be 3/4" higher - plenty of rear clearance.

Then up front - with a couple 3/4" spacers and the factory trim loosely in place, I have excursion clearance (and probably will have fun making that panel not buzz )

Now I have to decide if I want to add a little more tilt, though, for the practicality of hatch space.

Damned if I do, damned if I don't:

If I leave it as it is, I'll have a curved front panel that protrudes into the hatch space.

If I add a little tilt, I can get the magnet tucked into the back wall of the box, so less protrusion at the bottom, but of course won't change the protrusion where the actual baffle is up top - but then I'm tilting the cone into the hatch making it more vulnerable to cargo tipping into it.

Decisions, decisions.

[geolemon]

And here's as far as I want to tilt it, max -
I still have clearances inside and out.

View from the inside with the hatch closed. The blue tape is about where the hatch floor is.

One disadvantage with this is security - with the "firing up" angle, that side factory trim needs to be removed or that sub won't come out.
At this angle, I can remove the sub without removing the trim. Minor consideration, just losing a "trick".

Maybe halfway between the two is the compromise...

[jrwalte]

if people have the time to remove a sub, they have your car in a secure place and in no rush. I wouldn't consider security as a point of how you want to install.

[geolemon]

The "fuck it" option-

You don't know until you try - so try.

Now that I see it, I save way more useable hatch space this way, to compensate for the lack of protection.


I always did like this grille I suppose...

[geolemon]

if people have the time to remove a sub, they have your car in a secure place and in no rush. I wouldn't consider security as a point of how you want to install.

I like tricks. It's no fun to me to do an install where someone asks a question later and the answer is "oh yeah - didn't think of that." If someone asks "why?" It's more fun to have each detail factor equally into performance, aesthetic, and security.

The best installs in my book consider everything, and compromise nothing, IMO.

I have some security tricks for the amp rack that you will ONLY think are tricks to be extra showy... Stay tuned.

But I think now I might go the boring side-firing route. Which might even motivate me to boring-carpet what was supposed to be a bodyworked and painted finish with a double-roll baffle. Practicality needs to be one of the tricks.

We'll see.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk