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Thread: Bought the Civic Hatch lease out, so rebooting the install thread

  1. Back To Top    #101

    Re: Bought the Civic Hatch lease out, so rebooting the install thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Notloudenuf View Post
    Jaws took a bite out of your amp rack?
    The template, yes - shark got it lol

    That's the sub box side - the curve is where it curves around the sub baffle.

    Hoping to get the routing done tonight, it'll be more clear - but here's a pic for reference - that's the right side panel, sub enclosure:

    Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

  2. Back To Top    #102

    Re: Bought the Civic Hatch lease out, so rebooting the install thread

    I didn't get to routing it tonight, because I didn't have the right oversize bearing for my straight cut bit. I don't have a local shop for a specialty item like that, so...
    ...i decided to 3D print a plastic wheel to make the right oversize bearing for my need:


    While that was printing, I gave my passive Xovers a test run on the listening rig that's still holding my speakers.

    Tomorrow I should be able to get the routing done, now that I've got my bits ready.

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  3. Back To Top    #103

    Re: Bought the Civic Hatch lease out, so rebooting the install thread

    Test run on a scrap to figure out depth -

    I started at 1/4", first with the straight cut to clear out the center - with the wheel I printed sized exactly to half the width of the concave bit:

    Then the curves:

    But I was thinking right away, that seems too deep.

    So I grabbed a washer, and they definitely aren't 1/4". They are actually just less than 3/8":

    So let's try 3/8 -

    Yes, that's better. 3/8 (or a hair under, even) will be good. Will look proper with the cutouts exactly the thickness of the washers, I think.

    So here's the "sealed box" lid on top of the amp rack lid.

    Still need to cut the window and fan controller into the amp rack lid and router that from below, and then in the identical swappable box lid, cut (and probably router) the two 12" passive radiator holes.
    Last edited by geolemon; 09-11-2021 at 01:47 PM.

  4. Back To Top    #104

    Re: Bought the Civic Hatch lease out, so rebooting the install thread

    Not quite sure if I'm going to try to reverse mount and router my 12" PR holes, but either way I should use my circle cutter. I'll knock those out later - but I'm afraid if I start going down that path I'll be compelled to also router recesses for those bolts. We'll see. Worth sleeping on, for now. Here's at least where the holes will be:

    I cut and routered the window frame and a DIN size opening for the fan control touch panel. I used a 1/4" roundover and didn't sink it all the way, so it has a sharp line around the top - but that means I'll have to hand sand those corners:

    Plus, you can see my cheap 3/8" rabbet bit is shot, by all the burn marks - and that left me with a couple digs (left side, right by my table hold down strip) that I'll have to address by hand too - but mostly fine:

    I really want the glass mounted without visible fasteners - have several options, just need to pick one that won't get in the way of the lighting inside.

    So it's getting somewhere:

    The panel below installed for "sealed mode" (which I imagine I'll prefer for everyday use):


    One last detail to this panel before finishing, that I'm not looking forward to - it's even tough to capture in the photo:

    I've already modified the fan controller so the chassis is smaller and the one circuit board will mount in the amp rack - but to get this to set flush will be fun...
    I don't think I have a router bit that will cut such a tiny rabbet - it's like 1/16". So I'll probably have to hand cut that, to get this to set flush.

    I'm almost regretting not cutting the opening wider, and then gluing thin strips recessed to the right depth. Oh well.
    Last edited by geolemon; 09-12-2021 at 11:22 AM.

  5. Back To Top    #105

    Re: Bought the Civic Hatch lease out, so rebooting the install thread

    I decided to recess the PRs into the top of the panel, BUT...

    ...I drew my cutouts based on the cutout diameter, and measured 1/2 of the rubber gasket.

    However, now that I've cut it and used the 1/2 rabbet, you can see the rubber gasket overlaps the center of the gap.
    .
    So, I've got to either remake the passive radiator panel, or else try to modify it to push the two PRs apart, without making what's going to be an uneven recess gap be TOO obvious.

    I'm leaning towards remaking it entirely. I prefer the look when the recess is tight.

    EDIT:
    I drew it out and it's only 1/8" in each direction (see the blue arrow pointing to the pencil line) - I'll move it back on the spindle sander and I still have the rabbet on the router table, so I'll modify it and see how it looks.

    This panel is just for fun so I shouldn't be as worried about cosmetics as I am the sealed box panel that I'll actually use daily.


    EDIT 2:
    So I used the spindle sander then a curved block with a piece of 60 grit to get the inner circle to the new location, then the 1/2" rabbet on the router and...
    ... they fit their new 1/8" oversized holes.
    They are pretty clearly not centered in their recesses, but I keep telling myself - "this panel is just for occasional fun". Maybe one-time fun, who knows.
    Anyway - it's lost the cool 'fitted' look of a proper recess - but I've seen worse.

    Whether this or a new panel, I have one brace I'll need to add below and between the two PRs, and it'll be done, other than the finishing.
    Last edited by geolemon; 09-14-2021 at 08:51 AM.

  6. Back To Top    #106

    Re: Bought the Civic Hatch lease out, so rebooting the install thread

    Cut the plexi for the amp rack window:


    Recessed the fan controller so the display window/door is flush with the amp rack.



    Really putting off getting to that body filler on the upper chamber - oh the sanding that is to come...

    There's a few imperfections on these three panels also, so I'm hitting all those spots with filler to finish these off first.

  7. Back To Top    #107

    Re: Bought the Civic Hatch lease out, so rebooting the install thread

    It's not nearly as bad as auto body work - but still lots of rounds of filling and sanding until its smooth and seamless.

    I also drilled the holes here for my wiring - I need to get the gear in here for weight, so I can get the motor linkage dialed in right, and I think I'm going to need a strut assist so I need to size that. All this bodywork is in the critical path...

    Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

  8. Back To Top    #108

    Re: Bought the Civic Hatch lease out, so rebooting the install thread

    Linear actuator is figured out... More "linear" than any I've done before - zero linkage. 1:1. Totally linear. Literally.

    I loaded up the rack with everything to get a full-weight test:

    This one is apparently strong enough to lift the rack even without the strut:
    Video:https://photos.app.goo.gl/4NZKAD3FCBLwh3ZD8

    But it's faster on the way down and has a slight push to the left (would be less noticeable if had more than 4 screws in the piano hinge):
    Video:https://photos.app.goo.gl/8Nav6pd5ESjhmUUL8

    Here's the bung where the gas/spring strut will attach to help lift it. Glad to see technically it's not needed, beyond balancing the left/right forces. If I knew that I might have mounted the motor against the left wall - I guess I still could but that will complicate getting the wiring to the left CCi44.


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  9. Back To Top    #109

    Re: Bought the Civic Hatch lease out, so rebooting the install thread

    Since I had the bodywork mostly done, I thought I was going to get through my finishing of the lower parts this weekend - but we had humidity, rain, and wind, and I can't spray in this garage. Boo.

    However I thought I'd share this tip for anyone who's struggled giving MDF a painted finish:

    Sanding sealer! Why?

    Well-
    MDF is like a sponge, especially the edges - and anywhere you router out.
    Although I like smearing wood filler across the edges, this works similarly for more difficult spots you don't want to risk changing the shape on.

    Then you can prime and paint, without it endlessly soaking up your filler primer.

    Moving on...

    Since I managed to get through the priming but didn't get to the painting, I was staring at this sealed panel and thinking it still looks too boring.
    Had an idea for a detail - so let's make another router template...


    Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

  10. Back To Top    #110

    Re: Bought the Civic Hatch lease out, so rebooting the install thread

    I think I'm happy with it. Can't wait to see these pieces black.

    Funny thing is - I picked up that badge for my '95 civic a couple years ago, though long ago - like... '96 I debadged the 95:
    (Pardon today's router dust)


    I like that it's the 5th gen "Civic" script on this badge, going on the system in my '17 Civic...
    ...that 5th gen Civic has always been 'my audio car' so it's like passing the baton.

    Though any Honda guy is just going to go "you did the wrong year badge!"

    Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by geolemon; 09-28-2021 at 09:43 AM.

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