New tweeters or spend more time tuning?

[Jdunk54nl]

I am indeed using the auto EQ w/ Helix.

I was having weird issues with gain on when using REW. For some reason REW wasn't detecting audio levels well compared to Helix, but I'll give it another shot. The JBL/Andy curve looks quite nice.

If that is the auto eq with the Helix results, you set up something wrong. That doesn't match the curve that is shown in the background at all. Also, while the auto eq does a decent job, it still isn't the same as properly tuning and you being in control making adjustments.

[SlvrDragon50]

If that is the auto eq with the Helix results, you set up something wrong. That doesn't match the curve that is shown in the background at all. Also, while the auto eq does a decent job, it still isn't the same as properly tuning and you being in control making adjustments.

I haven't done a retune since replacing the OEM Honda HU with the Kenwood HU so it's possible that is playing a factor. Subjectively, I just noticed an increase in bass with the new HU.

I went with auto EQ because of Skizer's post noting that it is a pretty good baseline.

[Jdunk54nl]

I haven't done a retune since replacing the OEM Honda HU with the Kenwood HU so it's possible that is playing a factor. Subjectively, I just noticed an increase in bass with the new HU.

I went with auto EQ because of Skizer's post noting that it is a pretty good baseline.

Alright, then like I posted in your classifieds post, you need to get your tune right before purchasing anything. You NEED to know what is wrong so you know what to buy to fix it. Right now your tune is all over the place and isn't going to give a representation of what these speakers you currently have can actually do.

I noticed your crossovers are set generally at 100hz for subs to mids and 2865 for mids to tweeters. You need to set each speaker to match the curve with the acoustical response at the listening position to be a Linkwitzt 24db/oct slope at the proper frequency. Electrical settings (what you enter into the dsp) will greatly vary for type of crossover and frequency and slope. I don't think any of mine are actually a Linkwitz 24db crossover electrically, but accoustically, as measured in the drivers seat they are really close.
If you want 100hz crossover, I highly doubt that your subs or your mids will truly be set to 100hz, sub will probably be around 70hz and mids maybe higher or lower than 100hz, but to be perfectly at 100hz would be amazing to me. You also have different crossover types set, how did you decide on those? What information were you using for that?

In other words, you have a lot of tuning to do before you replace anything. Otherwise you are wasting money. You really need to figure out what is missing from what you have and then make an informed decision on what is going to fix those issues.

[SlvrDragon50]

Alright, then like I posted in your classifieds post, you need to get your tune right before purchasing anything. You NEED to know what is wrong so you know what to buy to fix it. Right now your tune is all over the place and isn't going to give a representation of what these speakers you currently have can actually do.

I noticed your crossovers are set generally at 100hz for subs to mids and 2865 for mids to tweeters. You need to set each speaker to match the curve with the acoustical response at the listening position to be a Linkwitzt 24db/oct slope at the proper frequency. Electrical settings (what you enter into the dsp) will greatly vary for type of crossover and frequency and slope. I don't think any of mine are actually a Linkwitz 24db crossover electrically, but accoustically, as measured in the drivers seat they are really close.
If you want 100hz crossover, I highly doubt that your subs or your mids will truly be set to 100hz, sub will probably be around 70hz and mids maybe higher or lower than 100hz, but to be perfectly at 100hz would be amazing to me. You also have different crossover types set, how did you decide on those? What information were you using for that?

In other words, you have a lot of tuning to do before you replace anything. Otherwise you are wasting money. You really need to figure out what is missing from what you have and then make an informed decision on what is going to fix those issues.

The frequencies and crossovers were based on feedback I received over on DIYMA when I was initially setting up the Helix RTA as well as the Helix manual.

[Jdunk54nl]

The crossover values acoustically are probably fine, ideally you want to cross your tweeter as low as possible in a 2 way as a 6.5" starts beaming (frequencies get sent out directional instead of omnidirectional).

But your electrical settings needed to get that acoustical LR 24db/oct crossover are most likely not the same thing. Speaker natural roll off, physical locations, etc. all change the electrical settings needed to match the acoustical curves.

[SlvrDragon50]

After watching Skizer's vid on Helix RTA, it looks like something is funky with my RTA/mic. The Autoset is failing for some reason. Getting Failure to reach desired devitation. That said... I set the EQ anyways, and the tweeters have definitely improved. The bass is also noticeably cleaner, more thumpy and less boomy, don't know what the correct terminology is. I still need to figure out the crossover frequency stuff, just wanted to figure out what was going on with the AutoEQ really fast.





All speakers on w/ pink noise

[tfunk182]

I have the same speakers, JL recommends 5khz crossover on the tweeters. That's where mine are set and the acoustic crossover is closer to 4khz.