Some Advice

[SQMax]

Yes the L65v2 are in the doors, i was looking to go wideband with the X3 but i would need to change DSP to Helix .3.

keep the sub at 60hz and move the mids to 80hz and 2.5k and play the tweeter from 2.5k and see how it goes from there i could post some screen shots from REW of each driver would that help find issues?

[dumdum]

Yes the L65v2 are in the doors, i was looking to go wideband with the X3 but i would need to change DSP to Helix .3.

keep the sub at 60hz and move the mids to 80hz and 2.5k and play the tweeter from 2.5k and see how it goes from there i could post some screen shots from REW of each driver would that help find issues?

a good start would be to chat with the guy you bought the midbass from... Gavin at Subtronix is a very knowledgeable bloke Gavin and me tuned all the subtronix SQ cars last year and did pretty well, once covid is over it might be worth nipping over for a tuning session to deepest darkest Nottinghamshire

if you are going to go wideband with an X3 you would still be able to use a dsp mini, just lose the tweeters as an X3 is very capable of going tweeterless, but a DSP.3 is an excellent processor in itself, if I was going to use tweeters I would use as big of a mid as possible to reduce the amount of bandwidth from the doors which is a horrible location in the first place

[SQMax]

I bought the speakers from Gavin and i have been messaging him and forth, the last message i got from him was he was too busy to reply as hes working on a few builds but contact HAT direct in the mean time i have done that and they have told me to drop lower to 65hz 18db or 24db.

its X3 or L2SE with a L1 pro R2 or keep the morel tweeter as for going for a bigger driver i was going to get the L6SE but after talking to Ben from HAT he said the L65V2 and X3 would be a far better road to go down, but if i find i needed the tweeter go for the X1 with that being a radiator tweeter you need to aim that to you.

the DSP.3 is a route am looking to take i should have got it right from the start i had the bit one nothing but issues, the helix dsp are far nicer an i like the software interface,
i would like to go 3 way but until i get a DSP.3 i cant do it just yet i have the funds set a side for the speakers but not the dsp.

[cueball981]

i wouldn’t be playing 6.5” anywhere near 4K if fitted in doors, not like 2.5-3k which most tweeters unless tiny will happily cope with, some will play lower with ease, a bigger tweeter (25-30mm is generally better for around 2-2.5k

l65 are an excellent midbass and would be far better with a l2se for example or mid/tweeter combo playing off them... my satori are a far better midbass/midrange for a 2 way with tweeter,

you’re gonna have some massive roll off and beaming issues above 2-2.5k... from the top end of the drivers side more than anything

and you generally don’t want the physical crossover to match on the sub, leave the sub at 60hz and set the midbass at 80hz...

Great suggestions! I found that having my subs at LR 55hz 24db and my mid-bass at LR 95/100 24db dialed in exactly where I needed to be on the curve (using Andy's).

[SQMax]

I hope i have done this right with REW these are the mids in and out of phase. 75hz to 2.5k -18db BW

[dumdum]

I hope i have done this right with REW these are the mids in and out of phase. 75hz to 2.5k -18db BW

Why do you have two traces? In or out of phase will only be relevant and useful if you play two drivers together, playing single drivers in or out of phase won’t change anything in a single drivers response, Amy differences measuring a single driver is down to poor measuring technique most likely

also it would likely help if you zoomed in on the y axis, so it is easier to read and people can help more

also you need to level off the crossovers so the slopes match, otherwise you’ll never get both in phase with each other and also your sub

[SQMax]

what would you like to see one trace pair driver? i thought putting both speakers on the picture would help as you could see what in phase and out of phase was doing. would it help if i added the REW file on here so you have all the graphs.

level off the crossovers i have never done that before so what that means is one side is playing 75hz and the other side is set at 75hz but playing say 60hz i pull that back so it matches the other side. this is new to me as i would have only used autocontrol rta

[dumdum]

You can’t ever see in phase or out of phase with a single speaker playing, to see if somethings in phase it has to be played with something else, the traces should be identical regardless of phase with a single driver playing, if they aren’t you are measuring incorrectly as any differences are down to measuring technique and background noise at the low end

phase matters when playing to another driver, be that another driver of the same type across the car or another driver of a different type through a crossover

[SQMax]

You can’t ever see in phase or out of phase with a single speaker playing, to see if somethings in phase it has to be played with something else, the traces should be identical regardless of phase with a single driver playing, if they aren’t you are measuring incorrectly as any differences are down to measuring technique and background noise at the low end

phase matters when playing to another driver, be that another driver of the same type across the car or another driver of a different type through a crossover

Thanks for explaining this appreciate this as am still learning. would HAT unity U2 be something worth getting or would the L2SE be a better route?

[dumdum]

Thanks for explaining this appreciate this as am still learning. would HAT unity U2 be something worth getting or would the L2SE be a better route?

It depends on the aim... into the windscreen firing upwards a u2, fire it on axis and you’re better off with a phase plug... and also where your midbass play upto without phase issues, the higher they will play the smaller you can go with full range drivers, if your midbass play to 450-500 with no phase issues use a 2”, if they get to 350 use a 3”, your car decides the drivers you use not a whim or I have these already if that makes sense