Got a somewhat crazy idea for my truck, you tell me what you think.

[mikeyt]

Geo that's a great pic. I wasn't thinking about using that 6.5 as a midbass, I was thinking subwoofer. However I do agree, I just want to pull some of the deeper tones to the front and the midbass would work for that. Now the internals/components I'm working with are 4 ohm, so I'd have to run a DVC 2 ohm 6.5 making it 4 ohm and get a 4 ohm amplifier. The 2 ohm option was only for the 5 channel when I originally thought of this using the sub channel to support my hair brain idea, sounded cool anyway? Can you recommend some mid basses that would do this? I was just thinking about using one amp stand alone for the 6.5 for itself actually, that way it would make it easy I thought. Run the 5 channel to the other stuff and run the single channel or dual for the midbass.

[mikeyt]

I'm not familiar with the inductor crossover coil and how it works or it's parameters. I tried to look it up on their website and didn't see anything on it. Since there is a subwoofer there stock, my idea was to keep it in the same way. This is a representative sample from ebay, I think the sub is front facing. The second image looks to be the sub box out of the console itself. Maybe this will help you see the vision of what I'm trying to do. This is why I was thinking a small subwoofer. If I go with a midbass then all the higher frequencies would be wasted in my opinion because the front of it is underneath the center portion of the dash, is that a good train of thought?





Here's a better pic









This is my last option

[geolemon]

I added a couple comments on the post with the diagram just to keep those there.

As far as the coil goes - it's just an inductor. It happens to be made for audio purposes, and handles a decent amount of power. You need one per voice coil, since we're using a DVC in this stereo way.
To validate the value - you can use a simple online calculator like this one: https://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Cal...akerCrossover/
Just put in 4 ohm for your speakers, and 300hz for your desired crossover frequency. What the inductor will do is block the higher frequencies starting at 300hz, but since it's just a coil, it's only a 6dB/octave slope, so it'll give a nice, gentle fade-away BEFORE the high frequencies come into play. We don't want this playing those, we want it to play midbass duty only. Your subs will cover the sub-bass, your components will start playing some of the midbass - this will contribute - then roll off starting at 300hz and up, and your components will continue to play up from there.

That location is actually fantastic... Almost couldn't be better for midbass support.
What you need is a 6.5 and then a little creativity and craftiness possibly to mount it in that factory location:
Sometimes that means something easy like making a mounting ring from wood, with one set of holes to match how the factory speaker screwed in, then new speaker to the ring...
Sometimes that means taking the factory speaker off, and cutting it apart with a dremel, using the ring itself as an adapter, or something else creative.
It may look intimidating, but the goal is pretty simple - remove the factory sub, and mount a new 6.5 there so that it uses the factory enclosure.

At a glance - you might not need to do anything but unbolt that factory speaker (I see four bolts, kind of hidden, but in the speaker corners) and the holes might even line up with no adapter.

[Haakono]

Each driver would receive 200 watts. taking the 600 using the distribution block. One lead would go straight to the 6.5" the other two would go to the box, one per sub. I would use dual voice coil 4 ohm DVC 10" and one 6.5" single voice coil 6.5" at 2 ohms. I came up with this to be able to use one amp if possible.

Unfortunately this is not how speaker wiring and impedance works. What you would end up with wiring like this would be a 0,67ohm load to the amplifier, sending it right into protect (or possibly blowing up).

Using a distribution block would only equate to wiring all speakers connected to it in parallell, dropping the total impedance. It won't keep the impedance the same as all the individual speakers connected to it and just evenly distribute the rated power from the amplifier.

[mikeyt]

Thanks Haakono for the help, good things! Geo, thank you for helping me understand that, it's clear as mud now....lol Just kidding, much better actually. Now that I'll be using a 4 ohm amp, will the drawing of how I've got to do it change? Make another one if you can cause that helped me see it a lot and brought it into perspective. Can you recommend a certain midbass that decent and not too expensive, not to sure what to look for in this area.

[mikeyt]

What is better for this application as far as what I need to look for-midbass or midrange. As an example would this be a good choice

Rockford Fosgate Punch Pro PPS4-6

200W Peak 6-1/2" Single Punch Pro Series 4-Ohm High SPL Midrange Speaker

$79.99

[COLOR=#636363 !important]
[/COLOR]

[Theslaking]

Stereo Integrity made the TM65 DVC 4ohm

[Grinder]

What is better for this application as far as what I need to look for-midbass or midrange. As an example would this be a good choice

Rockford Fosgate Punch Pro PPS4-6

200W Peak 6-1/2" Single Punch Pro Series 4-Ohm High SPL Midrange Speaker

$79.99

[COLOR=#636363 !important]
[/COLOR]

While I'm not sure I understand your intention, if you're looking for a 6-1/2" driver particularly well suited to 80 - 300 Hz range, based on my experience with the 8" version (the PPS4-8), this driver would not be a good choice.

[geolemon]

I think this thread is just heading in two directions at the same time:
1) the 2 page conversation that started with "no, the original suggestion won't work - but maybe try this instead"
2) new people coming on, reading and responding to that original first post.

Thanks Haakono for the help, good things! Geo, thank you for helping me understand that, it's clear as mud now....lol Just kidding, much better actually. Now that I'll be using a 4 ohm amp, will the drawing of how I've got to do it change? Make another one if you can cause that helped me see it a lot and brought it into perspective. Can you recommend a certain midbass that decent and not too expensive, not to sure what to look for in this area.

When you say "4 ohm amp" - tell me what you mean?
You said you were using a 5 channel amp, which I like to think of as a 4 channel amp and a mono amp stuffed inside one heatsink. The 4 channel section on every 5 channel amp that I've ever seen is 2 ohm stable per channel (as are the sub channel - sometimes those are even 1 ohm stable), like the RF T1000X5ad for example. Which amp are you looking at?

At any rate, my diagram shows 2 channels of the amplifier, the two that you'd be using to power the front speakers. That's two of the four, of the 4 channel section. Your sub channel will just be hooked up to your proposed tens - nothing else. As mentioned throughout this thread, your original suggestion was creative, but is bad/won't work for some very valid technical reasons.

Just to clarify my diagram - I'm pretending you already had that 4 channel amp set up, with 2 of the channels powering those components.

Now, you've bought a dual-voice coil 6.5" woofer - it is important that it's a DVC that is 4 ohms per voice coil - that's because your component set is 4 ohms, and your amp is only 2 ohm stable, I believe (again - see above). At this point, I'm not too worried about your selection of a specific woofer - in fact I can give you some advice on wiring this up temporarily just to prove the idea out, before you commit any real money to a good woofer to use, if you like. Let me know, I'd be glad to help there.
But back to the diagram...
So let's pretend you already have your subs, front and rear speakers (components) wired up to the 5 channel amp - just basic. No problem. Imagine that is our starting point here.

You take your console out, bring it into the workshop or garage, you take out that weird Bose woofer. You also buy those two $5 coils I linked earlier, and you buy a half-pound of polyfill stuffing from JoAnne Fabrics or Michaels or whatever is near you. That's probably also $5.
You might or might not need to be creative, figuring out how to mount the new 6.5. Maybe it bolts in, maybe you need to make a trim ring. That's mission #1.
Mission #2 is, you probably need to drill a hole to get wires in and out of that factory "box", because I'd think that's a good spot to hide the coils. Even though they take up a little space in there, we're adding stuffing (which makes sealed boxes act a little bigger), and we don't need the real "subwoofer" response anyway - you have real subs for that! So find a hidden spot to make a hole near where the speaker mounts - it has to be big enough for basically four speaker wires to go through (two in, from the amp, and two out, to the speaker.

Step #3 is to add the coils to your speaker wire. So what I'm saying is: take two lengths of speaker wire, enough to go from your amp to this midbass, each - plus about two feet extra each... enough to go into the box and back out. Once you've cut those to length, then about 18" down each speaker wire, separate the speaker wire (a drywall, Xacto, or breakaway knife works for this) and then cut just the wire that will be your positive wire, on both lengths of speaker wire. Strip the insulation back on all four cut ends, and just solder one coil right in-line on each wire. You should now have two total wires, with coils soldered 18" down each positive lead.

To install them - I'd wrap each coil in electrical tape a few times to give it a little protection and extra insulation in case these bang into each other over time in there - but also think about using hot glue or silicone or goop to glue the coils to the bottom of the inside of your factory enclosure. Ideally you don't want them moving around. Once secured, you can put somewhere between 1/4 to 1/2 pound of that polyfill stuffing in that chamber. I"m not sure how big that chamber is. It should be about "soft teddy bear" dense. That's all approximate anyway - don't sweat it too much. This is just to make it a little acoustically better in that factory box.
Run the wires in/out that hole you made into the chamber (leaving enough to connect to your midbass voice coils (remember one will be on each side of the speaker, so you might want your hole to be in-between), and then the long end will run under your carpeting to your amp. Use silicone or goop to seal that hole (you'll have to keep spreading the wires and gooping in between them, too), then mount the speaker and hook up one speaker wire to each voice coil - doesn't matter which.

Now you can re-install your center console and run the wires under the carpet to the amp.

But before you even do that - I have an idea for just prototyping this idea, "try it before you buy it" - do you know if that factory Bose speaker is 4 ohms? And do you / can you have everything else installed first (actually all I care about are the front two channels of the 4 channel amp... rear don't matter, subs don't matter)?

While I'm not sure I understand your intention, if you're looking for a 6-1/2" driver particularly well suited to 80 - 300 Hz range, based on my experience with the 8" version (the PPS4-8), this driver would not be a good choice.

Yep, that's exactly the right range - two comments/questions:

Why do you say this - and even the eight inch version (that's what made my eyebrows raise) - wouldn't be a good choice for midbass? Granted, I haven't checked out the spec sheet yet - but we're basically looking for something that has equivalent-or-better midbass than a typical component set 6.5, since that's exactly what this will be augmenting. It doesn't need to be a subwoofer. But if it starts rolling off at 300hz on the low end, then yeah - that wouldn't be great. I'd really be shocked if that was the case though. Is it? Do you know the Fs? I think I need the spec sheet on this guy...

Also, you probably haven't looked - but there aren't that many 4-ohm DVC 6.5's out there. At a glance, I was impressed at what they found - the RF and the SI. I'd been finding Boss and Pyle. Any suggestions for one?
Honestly, since we don't need much power handling, and since we really don't even need to care that much about fidelity in that midbass region, and don't need big Xmax like a subwoofer, I was even thinking some turd like a Boss or Pyle might even be just fine for this, provided the Fs was low enough. And if that sucked - little lost, can always replace it with a better one.
But yeah - I'd be pissed if I spent $80 on a throwaway 6.5. So definitely interested to hear your thoughts, and thanks.

EDIT: Never mind... I looked for the specs myself, and see this is NOT a dual voice coil 6.5. We need that, so we can run it "stereo", if you will.

[geolemon]

What is better for this application as far as what I need to look for-midbass or midrange. As an example would this be a good choice

Rockford Fosgate Punch Pro PPS4-6

200W Peak 6-1/2" Single Punch Pro Series 4-Ohm High SPL Midrange Speaker

$79.99

[COLOR=#636363 !important]
[/COLOR]

Ah - and fundamentally no.
We need a dual voice coil 6.5 for this...
This RF speaker, now that I look at it, is just a single voice coil speaker.

We need two actual physical terminals on the speaker, one per voice coil. That's the visual givaway, but it will also state "DVC" or "Dual voice coil".