So I actually lived up to my word for once.
Yesterday I DID get stuff playing, abet only the right side. This was due to a mix of poor connections(because I rushed) and a mixed pair of RCAs. I sorted that all out today. I'm faced with the conundrum of having my driver's side MUCH lower in volume. Not sure what happened/is happening. Between the heat and morning tranings at work, I won't have much time the next two weeks to mess with this, but atleast it plays. Between going from passive 2-way to active 3-way, even without EQ, the midrange and highs sound so much clearer. I can't(but will have to) wait to get this EQd up.
(I swear I'm using a Helix )
Haven't had much time lately due to early morning trainings- I'm having a wierd issue with the left side cutting out and still haven't traced it down. I replaced all the RCAs from the Helix to the amps with some 6 foot Stinger ones, and completely rewired the left side but it's still funky, and I'm suspecting a loose RCA at the headunit since it only cuts out over bumps... Today atleast, I got some pink noise playing and took some measurements. California is hot as balls so I probably won't do any EQ until Monday Morning when it's somewhat tolerable out.
My tweeters are also hissing(they're the only ones to do so) so I have some 1" Daytons sitting in a box... Those should get installed some day...
Left Side
Right Side
Nice wiring work. The hissing sound might be the gain setting set too high for the amplifier driving the tweeters. Tweeters do not need much more than 5 watts to keep up with most mids so setting amplifier gains to clipping is not needed and only raises the amplifier noise floor.
Mazda CX5 AF GB10, AF GB25, AF GB60, JL VX800/8i, AF GB12 sealed, Mmats M1400.1
Ford F150 AF GB10, AF GB25, JLC5, JL twk88/Pioneer D8604, Mosconi Pico, JBL Club 5501, Sundown SD3-10 ported @ 30 Hz
Sienna AF GB15, Audiofrog GS690, JL twk88/Pioneer D9500F, JBL GTX500, Alpine SWS10 ported @ 31 Hz
https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threa.../#post-5608901
I didn't really touch the gains for the tweets to be honest, I think they're getting ~10w right now... Rather than fix things like the left side still randomly cutting out(no idea why yet), I just Played with the Helix Auto-EQ while it was working...
"wow"
So I clearly still don't really know what the hell I'm doing 100%- I've watched SkiZeR's auto EQ video and skimmed through Andy's Tuning guide and the videos by Kyle Ragsdale on youtube, but todays.. rushed attempt still yielded great results(I would like to think anyways). I'm having the issue with a sharp drop at 20Khz, and I'm not sure of any fix for that yet, and you can see the Helix freaking the hell out about that in the screenshots below.
NOTE: Imgur was being pissy with me uploading things, so I attached them directly to the post
Right side - No EQ(green) and EQd(orange)
Left Side- No EQ(blue) and EQd(orange)
Both Sides EQd- Left(orange) and right(green)
I then took a measurement with all channels playing(and Sub EQd) and noticed the mother of all rise... I did a 3dB drop in the Helix software after that but... it sounded fun
Here's a post mortem in the Helix(sorry no sub channel in this pic)
I spent more time with the auto-EQ and played around with various movements of the mic- I've seen SkiZeRs version of making smaller circles around an ear for a few moments before swapping to the other, as well as waving it around both ears in a semi-circle. I ended up doing the process three times today, and made a few core changes:
-Fixed the right side midrange crossover, which was low-passed rather than band-passed
-Dropped the crossover between midrange and tweeter from 3500Hz to 3000Hz
-Changed the midbass and sub crossover from 100Hz to 80Hz and 60Hz, respectively, after reading some of Andy Wehmeyer's(wow I spelled it right for once) posts.
-Fixed the bodged time alignment from the Helix Auto-TA. I only just noticed that it had only done two out of the six up-front drivers and ignored the subwoofer.
This is my new left(orangey-bronze) versus right(blue) at 1/12 scaling.
Ah yes, the notorious driver side null....
I've gone mostly silent since there's been no actual work aside from some tuning. Some more hardware work will commence when I get new drivers in next week. I am toying/planning to print speaker adapters for these since the metra ones won't cut it.
Moving away from the blu-tac to some real sails with the arrival of some new drivers:
Kappa Perfect 900s - Grabbed the main 2-way set from a friend who ended up not using it, and "Scratch and Dent" 300ms from Crutchfield, which turned up as if someone had just looked at them and returned them... won't catch me complaining...
I did a lot of things and uh, haven't really updated this thread, so here we go. Skipping a lot of photos since most were pretty bad:
Part 1- Sails
I used JB Weld PlasticWeld to initially mount these- cut a hole in the panel, nudged the tweeter cups in best I could-
I finished up with evercoat rage and bondo's glaze putty, then primed-
Painted with SEMs Ultra Black Trim Paint-
Unfortunately, I need to sand off quite a bit as they get nudged out of alignment when the door closes-
Part 2- Dash panels
So I'm still using the stock midrange/tweeter location for the 300ms, they fit perfectly in there-
Attachment 14179
The stock cover however, does not play nicely...
Attachment 14180
So I cut a hole in the, and bought some cheap 4" plastic rings from ebay, and glued them on the top. This was totally unnecessary as I later realized right after they shipped, so I just rolled with it- actually happy with how it turned out.
Then I used glazing/spot putty to seal it up(should have used regular bog but I'm lazy and have a ton of this stuff after mistakenly thinking 1 tube wouldn't be enough for the sails.)
Sanded/cleaned it up a little and painted it with the SEM colour match paint I used on the sails-
Got some speaker grille cloth and glued it on:
Popped it in(I fixed it after taking this photo- it didn't pop in right on this go)