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Thread: Choosing a subwoofer

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Choosing a subwoofer

    After more than just a few posts were I have suggested that one needs to do their homework, it has come to this...


    I watched this presentation:
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JdQ3mLU5zBE

    (And I think I should have done the homework first...)




    I have a pair (NVX XQW 124) subs:
    https://nvx.com/content/XQW_subwoofer_Manual_093015%20.pdf
    R(e)= ~4 Ohms
    F(s)= 29 Hz
    Q(ts)= 0.38
    Q(es)= ?
    Q(ms)= ?
    V(as) = 64 litre


    So ^these^ appear to work as sealed or vented.
    Or does mounting them as Isobaric make them better for vented?



    And also a pair of Theil subs:
    R(e)= 3.8483 Ohms
    F(s)= 41.72 Hz
    Q(ts)= 0.5757
    Q(es)= 0.6088
    Q(ms)= 10.59
    V(as) = 27.34
    What I believe that link is telling me is that the Theil subs are idea for sealed or infinite baffle?
    (as the Q(ts )is high)
    Or can I put these into in a 4th order bandpass like this:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    And that if I want a sub specifically for a ported enclosure, and even more so into a bandpass, then something like the ScanSpeak 32w-5878t05 might be better?


    ScanSpeak https://www.scan-speak.dk/product/32w-4878t05/:
    R(e)= 1 Ohms
    F(s)= 17 Hz
    Q(ts)= 0.32
    Q(es)= ?
    Q(ms)= ?
    V(as) = 180 litre


    So if I am looking for primarily a bandpass sub, then ^this one^ would be a better choice based upon Hexibase's video? And is his video accurate?

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  2. Back To Top    #2

    Re: Choosing a subwoofer

    So, personally I like to use the Efficiency Bandwidth Product (EBP) method of dividing Fs/Qts method to determine what's best.

    • If Fs/Qts <50, then that sub is really considered a "sealed box" sub.
    • If Fs/Qts >100, then that sub is really considered a "vented box" sub.
    • If it's between 50 and 100, then it's usually considered usable in either sealed or vented, but then your selection depends on your application, you might prioritize other variables, or want to skew more one way or the other.


    So for your subs:
    • NVX EBP is 76.3. That's smack in the middle, should work fine in either sealed or vented.
    • Thielle EBP is 72.47, which is as close to the same as to barely factor into your choice between this and the NVX.
    • Scanspeak is 53.125, so it definitely leans a little closer to being a "sealed box" sub.



    For isobaric, those are fun - I used to do those all the time back in the 90's before Kicker disrupted the whole subwoofer market with their "solobaric" subwoofers and ushered in the next wave of "small box subs"... and note all they did originally was double the mass of the subwoofer's moving mass, double the BL, and use a stiffer suspension, to really simulate what happens when you isobarically couple two subwoofers. Now, pretty much everyone does that to begin with, save for some purist SQ subs. They've since evolved the Solobarics (fun fact: the L7 are also of that Solobaric lineage) to increase excursion capability over time, as well as some other things, mostly cosmetic. Funny thing is L7's really skew "sealed" by EBP standards, though obviously they work awesomely well in vented boxes, so there's always exceptions - use this as a guide only, although I wouldn't shop for a subwoofer that violated this EBP rule unless I explicitly knew it would work.

    But your question on isobaric - the only spec that changes when you isobarically couple two subs is Vas. You cut it in half. So if your modeling software doesn't specifically offer an "isobaric" option, all you have to do is enter a second version of that sub with the Vas cut in half, and bam - you are simulating an isobaric pair of those subs, rather than a single sub. Easy.

    Basically, all you are doing is creating a turbocharged single subwoofer. I say that because even though you are technically using two subwoofers, you really only have one cone acting on your listening space and on your box With the air trapped in between coupling them, you now you have two motors driving it, and of course you have double the mass compared to an actual single sub.... that might sound bad but it washes out since you have double the BL/Re motor strength, and you have double the suspension which washes out since you have the rest doubled as well.
    One nice sound quality benefit is that suspension non-linearities (the surround moves slightly differently, makes a different shape, when the cone moves in, vs when it moves out) are ironed out, since you always have one cone moving in and the other moving out, at least if you clamshell them together.
    ...and don't forget to wire the outside (listening space) woofer out-of-phase, so the subs work together rather than fight each other. You'll know if you forgot... "where's the bass?"


    For bandpass, here's where things start to get a little muddy (and I don't necessarily mean "sub response is muddy" as a pun)-
    Depends on what kind of bandpass:

    A 4th order bandpass is one where the rear chamber is sealed, and the front chamber is vented.
    A 6th order bandpass is one where the rear chamber is vented, and the front chamber is vented.

    The role of the rear chamber in a bandpass box is to define and control the shape and gain of the lower frequency portion of your designed frequency response.
    The role of the front chamber in a bandpass box is to define and control the shape and bandwidth and gain of the upper portion of your frequency response.

    So - for a 4th order bandpass box, you can get away with a sub that is a "sealed box" sub, because the low frequency chamber is sealed. However, I'd personally want a little more motor strength, because there still is a port in the equation, and that will still have SOME impact on cone motion... you obviously don't want it so overdamped that it is lifeless and won't play low (like if you used a ported-only sub in a sealed box), but you also don't want it being too easily upset by a vent that it ends up muddy.
    I'd feel good being right in the middle of that EBP > 50 but EBP < 100, like your first two subs are.

    For a 6th order bandpass box, you definitely want a sub that's in "vented box" territory, although you can get away with one that's in the "either" range. I'd want to get a sub that's EBP >75, if not EBP > 100. The NVX and Thielle would probably work just fine, the Scan Speak not so much.


    Modelling - for either bandpass box, if you are modeling them up - again, you might not find software that allows you to do both "bandpass" and "isobaric" at the same time, that's OK. Again, all you have to do is manually manipulate that Vas parameter. Just cut your Vas in half... and now you are simulating an isobaric PAIR. It's that easy.

    Build that bandpass box (be VERY careful with your precision when building, as a millimeter off here and there can have big consequences on your ACTUAL frequency response), and then mount the drivers clamshelled together on that center wall (make sure you account for one sub's displacement in each chamber!) and bam - you've made an isobaric bandpass box.

    If that's your goal.

    So for that purpose, I'd think either your NVX or that Thielle would be fine.
    And if Hexibass has used those Scan speak subs in a 4th order bandpass box - then I'd trust that for consideration as well... it does make sense from the standpoint that 4th order bandpass is at least fundamentally like a sealed box, and those subs are slightly leaning that way.
    But the other two are seeming just as good, 4th OR 6th order ...or sealed, or vented, if you ever change your mind down the road.
    Last edited by geolemon; 06-04-2020 at 03:55 PM. Reason: clarification

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Re: Choosing a subwoofer

    Quote Originally Posted by geolemon View Post
    So, personally I like to use the Efficiency Bandwidth Product (EBP) method of dividing Fs/Qts method to determine what's best.

    • If Fs/Qts <50, then that sub is really considered a "sealed box" sub.
    • If Fs/Qts >100, then that sub is really considered a "vented box" sub.
    • If it's between 50 and 100, then it's usually considered usable in either sealed or vented, but then your selection depends on your application, you might prioritize other variables, or want to skew more one way or the other.


    So for your subs:
    • NVX EBP is 76.3. That's smack in the middle, should work fine in either sealed or vented.
    • Thielle EBP is 72.47, which is as close to the same as to barely factor into your choice between this and the NVX.
    • Scanspeak is 53.125, so it definitely leans a little closer to being a "sealed box" sub.


    ...
    Thanks you sir.
    The main part I got so far, is that I still do not understand how to choose a sub.

    i'll do some more homework and look at EBP as well as Hexibase's Q(ts).


    the truck is in the shop, so I'll measure cabin gain when it is back and that will aid in determining what modelling curve I should be aiming for.
    Last edited by Holmz; 06-04-2020 at 07:56 PM.

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Re: Choosing a subwoofer

    It *is* hard picking subs!
    I'd never even consider one where I couldn't find Qts, Vas, Fs, and Xmax.
    Then, even with just that - plug them into WinISD.

    I think you are going about it in the right way...
    Sounds like you know how much trunk (or cab) space you are willing to give up. And it sounds like you know an enclosure type you want.

    So now, you can find some eligible candidates. Yes, using just Qts gets you a rougher sense of the same thing EBP shows, it just totally discounts the role Fs plays in low frequency extension... But you can glance at that separately, no biggie.
    As you identify candidates you can enter them into WinISD, into the enclosure design/size you want...
    ... And see which gives you the best response.

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Re: Choosing a subwoofer

    Quote Originally Posted by geolemon View Post
    So, personally I like to use the Efficiency Bandwidth Product (EBP) method of dividing Fs/Qts method to determine what's best.

    • If Fs/Qts <50, then that sub is really considered a "sealed box" sub.
    • If Fs/Qts >100, then that sub is really considered a "vented box" sub.
    • If it's between 50 and 100, then it's usually considered usable in either sealed or vented, but then your selection depends on your application, you might prioritize other variables, or want to skew more one way or the other.



    • ... Scanspeak is 53.125, so it definitely leans a little closer to being a "sealed box" sub.

    ...
    I see my confusion, as I thought that a lower f(S) always meant lower freq.
    However in the equation Fs/Qts, then as f(S) goes to zero, it moves the EBP towards sealed.
    and a higher f(S) raises it moving it towards ported.

    But then on the Earthquake SLAPS calculator then specifically call out using an f(S) below 25-Hz.


    Quote Originally Posted by geolemon View Post
    It *is* hard picking subs!
    I'd never even consider one where I couldn't find Qts, Vas, Fs, and Xmax.
    Then, even with just that - plug them into WinISD.

    I think you are going about it in the right way...
    Sounds like you know how much trunk (or cab) space you are willing to give up. And it sounds like you know an enclosure type you want.
    ...
    I am pretty cramped for giving up any volume of space.
    However if I chuck the sub box "behind the cab", then I can port the sound in, which couples nicely with a bandpass... as the ones with the output ports... well they have a port tube!


    Quote Originally Posted by geolemon View Post
    ...

    So now, you can find some eligible candidates. Yes, using just Qts gets you a rougher sense of the same thing EBP shows, it just totally discounts the role Fs plays in low frequency extension... But you can glance at that separately, no biggie.
    As you identify candidates you can enter them into WinISD, into the enclosure design/size you want...
    ... And see which gives you the best response.
    Got it thanks.

    i am pretty close to ripping out the MB (when the truck returns), and just going with a 2-way. Even if I run the MR in a ported box the f(3) is 125 Hz...

    So it is another reason I want to see if I can cross over the sub in the 100-Hz+ range. And the idea of a bandpass with lower harmonics, tends to aid in not localising due to harmonic distortion.

    Plus the amplifier is not too large... and the alternator was already upgraded to 110 or 125 Amperes.

    I can always use the Woofer as a "campground speaker" in a separate 3 way as the SPL will be pretty sedate when parked in a remote camp.

    The sub is to aid in battling the noise which heavily weighed dB(C) when in motion.
    I generally wear ear foam plugs (at least in heavily corregated dirt), so some extra chest rattle is helpful.

  6. Back To Top    #6

    Re: Choosing a subwoofer

    Quote Originally Posted by Holmz View Post
    I see my confusion, as I thought that a lower f(S) always meant lower freq.
    However in the equation Fs/Qts, then as f(S) goes to zero, it moves the EBP towards sealed.
    and a higher f(S) raises it moving it towards ported.

    But then on the Earthquake SLAPS calculator then specifically call out using an f(S) below 25-Hz.
    And here I thought I was the only person who even heard of those Earthquake SLAPS.
    I picked up a pair of 12" SLAPS this year to play with. I have a little collection of various vintage single 12's lying around.
    And for years now, I've been playing with PR's with smaller subs... I have two 10" PR's - one of those is good for a single eight, two of those is good for two eights or one ten...

    It's not at all a bad option if you are tight on space but have enough room to spread out the box - for example in an old-school regular-cab truck, you've got enough width to make a box wide enough that it could fit a 12" shallow sub and two 12" passive radiators across it's width, and then you could make the box literally no deeper than the shallow sub itself (you'd have to make sure the pole vent wasn't blocked, but you get the idea), no wider than the 36"+ and 12"+ you'd need to fit those subs and PRs on the front, and you might need to do a little PR tuning with weights.
    You can model PRs up in WinISD also. They are analogous to vents, so you'd want a vented box sub.

    Quote Originally Posted by Holmz View Post
    I am pretty cramped for giving up any volume of space.
    However if I chuck the sub box "behind the cab", then I can port the sound in, which couples nicely with a bandpass... as the ones with the output ports... well they have a port tube!
    Personally, as an old-school mini-trucker from the 90's, I love the idea of an old-school blow-through.
    But don't let me sway you there - I don't know how old your truck is or who you owe or what your resale plans are - but I always take cutting metal very seriously. I even favor running power cable through existing factory grommets rather than drilling holes and installing new ones in the firewall, even though technically the proper grommets give you a very clean and safe install, and even though my neurotic and anal approach would address any future rust risk as soon as I drilled that hole - I'd probably paint it AND grease it at the grommet gap for good measure.

    There's lots of options, that's all I'm saying. You aren't tied into a blow-through - but I certainly appreciate your approach here of "if I"m going to make a blow-through, I'm damn sure going to make sure I get it right!" Hell yes.

    Quote Originally Posted by Holmz View Post
    i am pretty close to ripping out the MB (when the truck returns), and just going with a 2-way. Even if I run the MR in a ported box the f(3) is 125 Hz...

    So it is another reason I want to see if I can cross over the sub in the 100-Hz+ range. And the idea of a bandpass with lower harmonics, tends to aid in not localising due to harmonic distortion.

    Plus the amplifier is not too large...
    That's the usual frequency gap that we have to worry about. And down the road, if you feel you are missing midbass - you can always add midbass back. I've even seen guys run midbass under-seat, vented forward, or firing forward out from the seat. In those cases, they do only run the up to maybe 125hz or so.
    I am wondering though- why get rid of the midbass? If you have them already... are they not performing? Are you banging your head on a midbass null or something?

    I especially ask because of the bandpass box...

    Hopefully you have winISD and are already playing with bandpass boxes on-screen. Don't get thrown that it "can't model up an ideal bandpass" to start you off with. Just start playing with the rear chamber size, front chamber size, and port tuning. Change one of those variables at a time and you'll VERY quickly see what effect each one has - you'll be able to tune up a box design in no time.
    But you'll also see there are limitations, with bandpass - and I say that for two important reasons:

    1) The wider you try to make the frequency response, the less gain you get. It's really not a huge problem, and I wouldn't worry too much about even up to 3dB worth of hump or dip (1.5dB hump or dip I should say - 3dB total sway). If you aren't designing this for SPL purposes, no worry there.

    2) But you'll see that you have an upper frequency response limit. The upper port acts like a low-pass filter, a physical one. Sound above that doesn't escape the port, at something like 12dB or 18dB/octave. So you'd NEED to design a bandpass box that can extend up to 125hz if you want it to play that high...
    It could be difficult because of #1 above.
    It could be a waste because if you wind up only playing it to 80hz... well, if you designed the box to only play to 80hz to begin with, it would be more efficient (since you mention "small amp")
    You could even wind up compromising low frequency performance, to get that response reasonably decent (again, #1).

    So play with WinISD, with those subs - see if I'm right or not. :wink;

  7. Back To Top    #7

    Re: Choosing a subwoofer

    Quote Originally Posted by geolemon View Post
    So, personally I like to use the Efficiency Bandwidth Product (EBP) method of dividing Fs/Qts method to determine what's best.

    • If Fs/Qts <50, then that sub is really considered a "sealed box" sub.
    • If Fs/Qts >100, then that sub is really considered a "vented box" sub.
    • If it's between 50 and 100, then it's usually considered usable in either sealed or vented, but then your selection depends on your application, you might prioritize other variables, or want to skew more one way or the other.


    So for your subs:
    • NVX EBP is 76.3. That's smack in the middle, should work fine in either sealed or vented.
    • Thielle EBP is 72.47, which is as close to the same as to barely factor into your choice between this and the NVX.
    • Scanspeak is 53.125, so it definitely leans a little closer to being a "sealed box" sub.



    For isobaric, those are fun - I used to do those all the time back in the 90's before Kicker disrupted the whole subwoofer market with their "solobaric" subwoofers and ushered in the next wave of "small box subs"... and note all they did originally was double the mass of the subwoofer's moving mass, double the BL, and use a stiffer suspension, to really simulate what happens when you isobarically couple two subwoofers. Now, pretty much everyone does that to begin with, save for some purist SQ subs. They've since evolved the Solobarics (fun fact: the L7 are also of that Solobaric lineage) to increase excursion capability over time, as well as some other things, mostly cosmetic. Funny thing is L7's really skew "sealed" by EBP standards, though obviously they work awesomely well in vented boxes, so there's always exceptions - use this as a guide only, although I wouldn't shop for a subwoofer that violated this EBP rule unless I explicitly knew it would work.

    But your question on isobaric - the only spec that changes when you isobarically couple two subs is Vas. You cut it in half. So if your modeling software doesn't specifically offer an "isobaric" option, all you have to do is enter a second version of that sub with the Vas cut in half, and bam - you are simulating an isobaric pair of those subs, rather than a single sub. Easy.

    Basically, all you are doing is creating a turbocharged single subwoofer. I say that because even though you are technically using two subwoofers, you really only have one cone acting on your listening space and on your box With the air trapped in between coupling them, you now you have two motors driving it, and of course you have double the mass compared to an actual single sub.... that might sound bad but it washes out since you have double the BL/Re motor strength, and you have double the suspension which washes out since you have the rest doubled as well.
    One nice sound quality benefit is that suspension non-linearities (the surround moves slightly differently, makes a different shape, when the cone moves in, vs when it moves out) are ironed out, since you always have one cone moving in and the other moving out, at least if you clamshell them together.
    ...and don't forget to wire the outside (listening space) woofer out-of-phase, so the subs work together rather than fight each other. You'll know if you forgot... "where's the bass?"


    For bandpass, here's where things start to get a little muddy (and I don't necessarily mean "sub response is muddy" as a pun)-
    Depends on what kind of bandpass:

    A 4th order bandpass is one where the rear chamber is sealed, and the front chamber is vented.
    A 6th order bandpass is one where the rear chamber is vented, and the front chamber is vented.

    The role of the rear chamber in a bandpass box is to define and control the shape and gain of the lower frequency portion of your designed frequency response.
    The role of the front chamber in a bandpass box is to define and control the shape and bandwidth and gain of the upper portion of your frequency response.

    So - for a 4th order bandpass box, you can get away with a sub that is a "sealed box" sub, because the low frequency chamber is sealed. However, I'd personally want a little more motor strength, because there still is a port in the equation, and that will still have SOME impact on cone motion... you obviously don't want it so overdamped that it is lifeless and won't play low (like if you used a ported-only sub in a sealed box), but you also don't want it being too easily upset by a vent that it ends up muddy.
    I'd feel good being right in the middle of that EBP > 50 but EBP < 100, like your first two subs are.

    For a 6th order bandpass box, you definitely want a sub that's in "vented box" territory, although you can get away with one that's in the "either" range. I'd want to get a sub that's EBP >75, if not EBP > 100. The NVX and Thielle would probably work just fine, the Scan Speak not so much.


    Modelling - for either bandpass box, if you are modeling them up - again, you might not find software that allows you to do both "bandpass" and "isobaric" at the same time, that's OK. Again, all you have to do is manually manipulate that Vas parameter. Just cut your Vas in half... and now you are simulating an isobaric PAIR. It's that easy.

    Build that bandpass box (be VERY careful with your precision when building, as a millimeter off here and there can have big consequences on your ACTUAL frequency response), and then mount the drivers clamshelled together on that center wall (make sure you account for one sub's displacement in each chamber!) and bam - you've made an isobaric bandpass box.

    If that's your goal.

    So for that purpose, I'd think either your NVX or that Thielle would be fine.
    And if Hexibass has used those Scan speak subs in a 4th order bandpass box - then I'd trust that for consideration as well... it does make sense from the standpoint that 4th order bandpass is at least fundamentally like a sealed box, and those subs are slightly leaning that way.
    But the other two are seeming just as good, 4th OR 6th order ...or sealed, or vented, if you ever change your mind down the road.
    Just saying I really appreciate this response. Lots of good info. Thanks!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. Back To Top    #8

    Re: Choosing a subwoofer

    Quote Originally Posted by mauian View Post
    Just saying I really appreciate this response. Lots of good info. Thanks!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    No problem - glad to help.
    And I just glanced through that again, and where I typed "overdamped" I meant "underdamped" (higher Qts), but you get the gist of it even if I can't make the right words in my defective brain.

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