2005 Toyota 4Runner - SQ focus

[phroenips]

4Runner build thread (reposting/archiving my build thread from DIYMA)


When we got this vehicle, I was happy that it had the upgraded JBL sound system. I know normally that's not the preferred starting point, but my plan included installing an amp, so having all the speaker wires centrally located in the rear of the vehicle was going to be handy.


So, the plans are for an aftermarket double-din head unit, feeding into a DSP and amp for an active 2-way setup plus a subwoofer.


Additionally, this build is to serve as a "practice" before I tackle my Porsche Cayman GTS


I bought a Kenwood DMX905S as the head unit. The rest of the major equipment list is comprised of repurposed gear:

• Audison Bit One (the OG)
• Hertz HDP5 five channel amplifier
• MB Quart PVF-216 (German ones, from before they sold out)
• Hertz ES250.5 subwoofer

Let’s get started!


There was some confusion on what mounting adapter was to be used for the head unit installation. Crutchfield listed the Metra 95-8202, but on Metra’s website, they say that fits everything EXCEPT Limited trim levels. Well, I have a Limited. According to Metra, the 95-8210 is what I needed. I called Crutchfield with this information, and they sent me both, just in case. Thanks, Crutchfield!


Turns out, I ultimately needed the 95-8202 (what Crutchfield originally listed), but I had to “combine” it with the OEM bracket.


This is the OEM radio with the bracket still installed:





And what ultimately worked (I actually later had to move back the plastic adapter so it would sit further back for a better fit. Didn’t get a picture of that):





To route the signal wires to the back, I put all the RCA cables into tech flex (blue), and routed it behind the glove box and down the passenger side.





Used the PAC RP4.2-TY11 as the harness and to retain steering wheel controls, etc. Ended up stuffing it in the area below the radio itself, behind a HVAC control panel.





For sound treatment, we pulled out the entire interior (except the upper half and headliner). I sure hope we remember how it all goes back together…





I forgot to include the backup camera cable into the tech flex bundle. Screw it, just run it alongside and wrap it with some Tesa tape!





At this point, I was still waiting for the CCF to arrive, but might as well starting laying out the MLV.








What a royal PITA that is to work with and to cut! I later treated one of the doors with Soundskins Pro, and by comparison, that stuff is a dream with work with! Cuts so easily! I personally won’t ever do the CLD+CCF+MLV again, I’ll just use Soundskins Pro. I’m sure overall performance isn’t as good as doing it the “proper” way, but it’s good enough for me. I ended up doing the rear wheel wells in Soundskins Pro after I did the door (forgot pictures of both of those).


Ran power down the drivers side, then brought it over to the passenger side behind the rear seats in order to minimize the distance of power and signal wires being next to each other.


At this point, I hooked everything up to make sure it was working and to set gains. And this is when I realized that my Bit One has developed flaky RCA input connections, meaning if you breath on the cable wrong, it would cut in and out. At least 4 of the 8 inputs had this problem. I’m pretty sure it’s because of how a previous shop installed it in a previous vehicle. There was a lot of stress on the RCA connections, and it took its toll. In fact, I was experiencing that cutting out in that vehicle for a few months before I pulled it all out and sold it (traded on the Porsche, actually).


Anyway, Bit One is out, not sure what I’ll do for a DSP yet. For now, I just hooked it all up to the amp directly, and built an amp rack.








At this point, head unit is installed; rear view camera installed; sound treatment is done on the floor, rear cargo area (including lift/hatch), wheel wells, and driver’s door so far.


Along the way, I also discovered that there’s only one pair of speaker wires going to each door, despite it being a component system. The OEM tweeter simply has a capacitor as a passive crossover. Of course, that means I need to run another pair of speaker wires if I want to run active. For now though, I had had enough, and needed a break! I left the stock speakers in there, passive, powered by the new amp.


The DMX905S has time alignment, so I went ahead and set that up for now, and tuned it as best as I could with the limited (and single) 13-band graphic EQ.


I eventually also have plans for a fiberglass subwoofer enclosure, but for now, I just put in a powered subwoofer I had laying around (Hertz DBA200).


I’m calling this “Phase 1 complete”


And I must say, it definitely sounds “better than OK.” I wouldn’t say it sounds “great” yet though.

[phroenips]

Phase 1 was done a week or two ago, I’m in the middle of Phase 2 right now, hoping some of you might have some tips or ideas for me.


“Phase 2”


Next up is to make speaker adapters. I started with the tweeter. I want to use acrylic for weather proofing, but made a template out of MDF





I’ve never done anything like this before, so it took me MUCH longer to get to this point than I’d like to admit.


I transferred it to a piece of 1/8” acrylic. Which, again, took a while. Over an hour I think.


And then as I was drilling the holes for the mounting screws/bolts, it broke. I think I cried. Is 1/8” too thin and fragile?





After much cursing, it struck me that the shape I was working with looked familiar. I also have a set of Hertz Mille’s (the original versions). I was planning to use these in the Porsche, but was curious how it would fit. This is the adapter that the previous shop made for my Audi RS5:





It’s very close to perfect. Now I need to decide what to do. Still keep working at getting an adapter for the MB Quartz, or use the Hertz in this car, and buy new speakers for the Cayman (Audiofrog maybe?)

[phroenips]

Was able to get a little more work done.

Since I'm going to run active, I had to run at least one more pair of speaker wire to each of the front doors. I had read on one of the 4Runner forums (t4r.org) to be sure to use the signal before it splits off otherwise there are passive crossovers limiting the frequency range. Rather than bother with that, I just picked up some 16/4 speaker wire from Home Depot, available by the foot.


To help anyone doing this in the future, we found it to me much easier to push the wire from the outside/door side into the vehicle (as opposed from inside toward the door).





Next up was to work on the speaker adapters for the door woofers. The plan is to do a base layer in 1/4" acrylic for outer shape which attaches to the door, then build up just the speaker area with 1/2" to get the depth required.


I forgot to take a picture of the OEM speaker adapter, and I had to button the car back up for now. Here is what it looks like though, courtesy of Crutchfield:





It extends into the door as well, which means it didn't sit flat, which means I couldn't use it as a direct template on the router. So, we just simply traced it onto some MDF, cut it with a jig saw, and sanded. It's not perfect, but it's not too bad.





Pro tip: don't be lazy and try to eyeball things. Otherwise this will happen. D'oh!





Re-did that work properly, then used my new MDF template to create them out of 1/2" acrylic








I was still waiting for the ABS I ordered to be delivered, but decided to try the tweeter adapters again using 1/4" acrylic. Between more patience, and different drill bits (simple black oxide bits vs some titanium coated or something I was using before), I was much more successful!





And then I ran out of time and had to button everything up before a blizzard/snow storm hits us (this is our "winter beater")


The Dayton DSP-408 should arrive tomorrow, and I also need to glue/cement the woofer acrylic pieces together, and finalize how to best secure the tweeters. And then phase 2 will be done!


Phase 3 is the fiberglass work for a subwoofer

[phroenips]

Got some more time to work on this.


Tweeters are mounted!





Speaker adapters mounted, and drilled/tapped holes for the speakers





Whew, they fit and the holes all line up:





Didn't really get pictures of the following items, but I decided to use XT60 connectors on all my speaker connections after reading another thread here about the car going into the shop and they hooked up the speakers with reversed polarity


I also stole @Adrock's idea and made a removable inline capacitor option for the tweeters (See post #24 of his build thread)


The Dayton DSP-408 came in, and I mounted it on the outside of my amp rack:





It does stick out past the trim panel, but I knew that and was expecting that. For my install it's not a problem, because in "Phase 3," it'll all be covered up by the subwoofer enclosure. Speaking of which, I also hacked up said trim piece in preparation for Phase 3:





And with that, Phase 2 is complete!!!


Got time alignments and crossovers set, then spent some quality time with REW to tune it. I may be biased, but I think it sounds fantastic!


It's been a lot of work, a bit more than I was expecting, and taking quite a bit longer than I was expecting, but it's also given me such a sense of accomplishment and satisfaction.


Now to work up enough courage and fortitude to start Phase 3: subwoofer enclosure. Yay, fiberglass :worried:

[phroenips]

Oh yeah, I was supposed to be working on the subwoofer enclosure


I was originally planning to use a Hertz ES250.5 subwoofer I already had. But I needed a grill for it. Went looking for one, and they wanted $50 for a piece of plastic. :surprised:


Meanwhile, I found a JL TW3 for sale on here, including a grill, for a reasonable price. I've always liked JL subs, and this one required a little less airspace than the ES250.5, so I decided to go for it.


First, I built part of the structure out of MDF:





And setup my fiberglassing station, and got to work:








I missed getting pictures of some of the steps in between, but I wrapped it with fabric, more glass to enclose it, and some body filler to smooth it out for carpeting:





This vehicle has a movable/adjustable cargo shelf, and I'm happy to say that it still clears the subwoofer and remains fully functional. Woohoo!


I plan to "outsource" the carpeting bit, but it's fully functional at this point and tuned. Finally got some low end to round out the system. Sounds pretty good, too. So much easier to get good bass in an open cabin!

[el_bob-o]

Looking good. I always feel the need to tackle carpet and vinyl myself and then always wish I would have had someone who is better at it than myself cover whatever needs covering.

[lowcel]

Very nice!

[phroenips]

I was never in love with the MB Quart tweeters. I had them crossed way up at 4k, and they would still break up occasionally. I decided to try some Audiofrog GS25 Wideband speakers (note: GS25, not GB25).

Super easy to install as they were designed specifically to drop into Toyotas (among others). Longest time for the install was making a wiring harness. They sound better than I was expecting, and since I can cross them at 400Hz, it brings the soundstage way higher. I'm happy with the purchase

[mikeyt]

How does your Dayton 408 that's a four channel work eith the five channel amp. Thinking about going that route but not sure how it works with missing a channel. Do you hook it up to the front and rear's and does the sub somehow get tuned or not part of the mix of things, like it's on it's own?

[Smitty]

How much airspace did you get in the sub enclosure?