2016 Porsche Macan S - stealth SQ build

[Ge0]

So, I am impatient:


Don't know what the rubber plug is work around it:



This stuff should be good for light duty:



Scuff up the surfaces so the epoxy sticks better:



I'm a little worried about misalignment of the 2 pieces. I'll need to create a crude fixture to hold stuff in place while the epoxy cures.


Ge0

[Ge0]

One more quick task before sunset. Gotta make use of longer days while I have them...


The factory amplifier is grounded here (Brown wire). This must be a decent grounding point for my aftermarket amplifier.



After using sandpaper for 10 minutes I determined this method of removing paint was futile:



Grab a tool more suited for the job:





5 minutes later the sheet metal around this stud is clear of paint. Side note. Watch that grey factory wool when using a high speed rotary tool. The wire wheel will suck it in...






Bolt it down!!!






Primary amp ground in an 11" run...

Ge0

[Ge0]

Here's one for Cueball

I use wire ferrules to keep my wire ends from fraying when bolted into an amp.



I was reminded that it is good practice to heat shrink the ferrule to the wire so the two don't separate.



Ge0

[Ge0]

Only had about 30 minutes tonight before dark:

First things first. Apply shrink tubing to my wire ferrules to keep Cueball happy










Now there is the issue of the dang fuse holder cover popping off randomly. I decided to strap it down:








https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Now to settle the great debate over how to mount my fuse holder:

Industrial strength Velco from ResoNix. The stuff is supposed to survive the Apocalypse. To me it appears to be standard issue Velcro brand. We'll see...



https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/pr...atible-velcro/


Heated the adhesive up to a nice warm temperature with my heat gun then stuck and rolled into place:










https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All done for the night. All out of daylight...

Ge0

[cueball981]

Here's one for Cueball

I use wire ferrules to keep my wire ends from fraying when bolted into an amp.



I was reminded that it is good practice to heat shrink the ferrule to the wire so the two don't separate.



Ge0

Very very nice!!!

[Ge0]

Little things tend to take hours to complete. I still needed a good way to secure my sub amp. This would be the last little bit of fabrication I needed before I pull the trigger and complete the system (for now).

A guy came out of nowhere on the Macan Forum and asked why I wasn't using the 6mm stud on the bottom of my battery compartment to help secure my sub amp. What stud? Turns out it was hidden under this plastic cap:



I could make a bracket that bolts onto that sucker:














Then there was one. And then there were more:






Amp fits tight as a glove. It ain't going anywhere:




In retrospect I need to buy some sexier looking hardware and fasteners to give this a polished look. But for now all is good. Need to pre-program my main amp tonight and create a wiring harness for it to interface to the vehicle. But, that's about. it. Almost ready to fire the system up.

Ge0

[Ge0]

I won't go into great detail here. Just finishing my tweeter install.


Zip tie my new speaker wire run to the factory harness so the new wire does not fall back into the dash. Then, cut to proper length.





Connect tweeter and stuff back into the hole





Ge0

[Ge0]

The last few days I had been working my butt off.

Pre-wire my amp board. Crimp on smaller ferrules.





Yep, working at my kitchen table in the rain.



I purchased a mating connector for the main amp harness. I decided to splice into it by using these Amazon butt splices that contain adhesive and solder. If I had to do this again I would prefer to solder wires and cover with heat shrink. I don't trust these splices 100%.





Here is the vehicle harness mating connector I purchased. This saved me from hacking into the factory harness. But, required more splices.



Bolting in numerous connections with crimped ferrules.



Bundling all of the splices. I wrapped each splice in cloth tape just to be safe. I found a few instances where wires wanted to poke through the plastic heat shrink.



Strapping back un-used connections on the mating harness.



Fully assembled amp board


Ge0

[Ge0]

Powering up and testing the amp board.


Using this peripheral the amplifier creates its own private wifi network. I can link to the amplifier wireless with my PC or phone and set it up.



A science experiment...



Routing I/O and setting up channel parameters in software. There are 9 channels total:

Front tweeter L plays 3.5KHz and up using 24dB/octave LR crossover
Front tweeter R plays 3.5KHz and up using 24dB/octave LR crossover
Front midrange L plays 300Hz to 3.5KHz using 24dB/octave LR high pass and low pass crossovers
Front midrange R plays 300Hz to 3.5KHz using 24dB/octave LR high pass and low pass crossovers
Front midbass L plays 70Hz to 300Hz using 24dB/octave LR high pass and low pass crossovers
Front midbass R plays 70Hz to 300Hz using 24dB/octave LR high pass and low pass crossovers
Center channel plays 300Hz to 3.5KHz using 24dB/octave LR high pass and low pass crossovers
Differential rear fill mono channel plays 300Hz using a 24dB/octave LR high pass and 12dB/octave LR low pass
Sub channel will play 70Hz and down using a 24dB/octave low pass and 36dB/octave subsonic filter at 15Hz




All my initial settings are subject to change. This was just a good starting point. Many days of measuring and adjusting will determine final settings.

Ge0

[Ge0]

Installing the amp:


Tie the factory harness behind the amp:



Ready to mount:



Bolt amp rack in place:




Up and running. I was so excited to hear sound from my car again I didn't bother dressing up the wires at this time. Maybe tomorrow. It's pretty cool that I can fit all this gear in the rear quarter panel. Good thing Porsche vehicles use a flared out rear end.


Now I need to re-assemble the rear trim so can re-install the subwoofer.

Ge0