2016 Porsche Macan S - stealth SQ build

[Ge0]

And the adhesive on the back is ridiculously tough, once it's stuck it ain't coming off.

Do you mean stick the fuse holder to the sheet metal using velcro or to the plastic bracket?

How hard is it to separate the velcro pieces in case I need to change a fuse?

Ge0

[Whiterabbit]

separation is doable. It'll work and be an easy solution. The real trick is to pick a velcro with EXCELLENT adhesive, then give it a ton of cure time. If you put it into service too soon, the results will be poor. Let the glue cure fully, it's like mikey says.

I don't care for the velcro solution because it raises a gap between the two things you're fixing together, and it prevents you form making alignments perfect since velcro has some "give" to it.

However, that can also be a desirable design feature, that's up to you as the designer. And if you're looking at having to pull the block to make fuse changes, then it might be the right answer too. Wood screws for sure would be the wrong answer, and machine screws would be very inconvenient.

[Ge0]

separation is doable. It'll work and be an easy solution. The real trick is to pick a velcro with EXCELLENT adhesive, then give it a ton of cure time. If you put it into service too soon, the results will be poor. Let the glue cure fully, it's like mikey says.

I don't care for the velcro solution because it raises a gap between the two things you're fixing together, and it prevents you form making alignments perfect since velcro has some "give" to it.

However, that can also be a desirable design feature, that's up to you as the designer. And if you're looking at having to pull the block to make fuse changes, then it might be the right answer too. Wood screws for sure would be the wrong answer, and machine screws would be very inconvenient.

/
Raising the two surfaces apart due to velcro gap is a good thing here. Can anyone recommend a good velcro? I know ResoNix sells some but his shipments are about 2 months behind now.

Ge0

[cueball981]

/
Raising the two surfaces apart due to velcro gap is a good thing here. Can anyone recommend a good velcro? I know ResoNix sells some but his shipments are about 2 months behind now.

Ge0

3M Industrial 1 inch or 2 inch wide...

Here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I've used this stuff before. Super sticky and bonds well as long as you give it enough cure-time. Use your heat gun to get it even stickier before adhering. Make sure the surface is clean and free from all contaminants.

[Ge0]

3M Industrial 1 inch or 2 inch wide...

Here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I've used this stuff before. Super sticky and bonds well as long as you give it enough cure-time. Use your heat gun to get it even stickier before adhering. Make sure the surface is clean and free from all contaminants.

Thanks Cueball

Ge0

[cueball981]

I like the 2" wide. You can always cut it down to size or in half to make 1" strips. The 2" though is great for covering a lot of surface area at a time.

Also, how's your son's recovery going?

[Ge0]

Also, how's your son's recovery going?

It's been a little rough on him. His doctor wants him to keep his legs elevated to prevent swelling:


I'm being sarcastic of course. He couldn't be happier stuck on the couch. He's really milking it.

Ge0

[cueball981]

Lol! Glad to see he's recuperating AND enjoying himself at the same time. LOL! He's young and will heal up just fine.

[mikeyt]

Clean the surface, cut velcro to fit the fuse holder, adhere it to the metal, let cure, then remove film and adhere holder. You can get the 3M stuff from Home Depot or Lowes, I think I paid $10-$15 for a roll. I've used it before to hold heavy objects and it really does work. We're talking about a fuse holder that doesn't weigh an ounce. Yes it's seperable, so that's not a problem. This stuff isn't like velcro on a pocket or a bag or a flap. When I say industrial as others have said it works in industry, not to just close something. It's got a much tighter nap on the loop section and tons more hooks and the adhesive stays. If you haven't used it before, you're in for a surprise, seriously. If you do it at night, you're good to go the next day. again, we're talking less than an ounce for weight. The gap you may have is like 1/16 or 3/32, it's not that much. If you want you could put weight or step on it to to shrink that even further...lol

[Ge0]

So I did a little more work today:

I applied some random goop and took some measurements. The Bose amp is still installed and it's EQ active. The only difference in measurements you see is due to treatments applied to the center channel 3-1/2" loudspeaker.

Before any treatments applied:








Apply some CLD:







You will see small reductions in frequency response here and there after dampening the center channels baffle. The changes you see are not actually due to reduction in musical signal output. They are reductions in panel vibrations that show up as distortion in your overall measurement. Sometimes this is a good thing. RED trace is before. Blue trace is after...




Now replace the plastic trim piece and throw everything out of whack...





The plastic trim panel has it's own significant influence on frequency response of the full range center channel. Most notably between 2KHz and 5KHz... RED trace before. GREEN trace afterwards.




The only purpose for this exercise was to show you the influence of adding changes to a system. Adding the CLD made some difference. However, placing a plastic cover over the center channel made a much larger difference. Mostly for the bad as it caused an attenuation along a large portion of the midrange response.

Ge0