2016 Porsche Macan S - stealth SQ build

[Ge0]

Looks awesome.

On those rabbets... You won't like the price of even 3/4" rabbets.

Since you don't need precision even to 1/8" on those to make the lid sit flush, I'd tackle it the easy way:

I believe you have double sided template tape. And I believe you have a standard straight-cut router bit with no bearing. You'll need those.

Take a straight piece of MDF and tape it to the underside of the baffle, parallel to what you want to rabbet out. It'll be inset by 1 1/4" (your rabbet) plus the distance of half your router base, minus half the diameter of your straight cut bit.

...or, since precision isn't crazy - just make a line at 1 1/4" and hold your router so you can use that line like a sight to align the router bit to the cut line, and slide the MDF guide to where it touches the back of the router and make a line. Double-stick tape the MDF guide to the line.

Then I'd just set your depth with a scrap of wood - then start free-routing from the edge, working back from the edge, until you are back at the guide and can use that for a clean line.

Easy and beats buying a $125 bit for the same effect.

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Thanks for the instructions. That's kind of where I was heading. I'm waiting for my carpet shipment from Nick before I actually do any cutting. May need to make adjustments.

Ge0

[Whiterabbit]

Another way that is very similar is to tape a 1x4 equivalent strip of MDF so the edge is ON the rabbet you want to cut. Then run the patternmaker across that with the depth set right. the 1" rabbet needs two passes of course. the 1x4 might need to be double layer depending on the flute depth of your patternmaker bit. I'd need a double layer.

[Ge0]

Another way that is very similar is to tape a 1x4 equivalent strip of MDF so the edge is ON the rabbet you want to cut. Then run the patternmaker across that with the depth set right. the 1" rabbet needs two passes of course. the 1x4 might need to be double layer depending on the flute depth of your patternmaker bit. I'd need a double layer.

I'm having a tough time picturing this.

Ge0

[Ge0]

I did a few things after work today:

I installed these speaker terminals from Madisound





I got this heat shrink kit from Amazon. I think there was like 1000 pieces in 20 different sizes for like $10. Not the best quality I have ever used but good enough.






Install XT60 connectors from Amazon:



One characteristic of my new Bosch / Dremel soldering iron I do not care for. That little hole in the soldering tip vents out hot air like a blast furnace. It will absolutely scorch your skin or work piece if you don't have it aimed just right:



See the scorch marks on the wire insulators? You should see the one on my thumb... It also wrecked a few XT60 connectors today as I was getting used to using it.



All shrunk up using my Wagner heat pistol.



Install speakers:





To be continued...

Ge0

[Ge0]

Modifying midrange install a bit. I didn't like the tight fit with standard sized socket head cap screws and wanted a better seal against the door trim panel:

Use my new Amazon leather hole punch set ($12) to cut perfect holes in my closed cell foam rings. I had 6 different colors (mostly black) but thought the blue would be fun considering the color of my car:







I love the versatility and robustness of socket head cap screws. However, here they were digging into the plastic of my door trim once the speaker was bolted on. I also needed to add weather stripping. So, changed to low profile head cap screws.













Absolutely perfect fit .


Side note: Adding 4" midranges throughout the vehicle where 3" units existed is a little challenging. But, work-arounds are possible and entirely doable...

Ge0

[Whiterabbit]

I'm having a tough time picturing this.

Ge0

draw a line 1 inch in from the edge. This is the cut line, so to speak. Where you want the rabbet to stop. Take an MDF strip that is maybe 1x4x48 or so, and tape it to your board so it is ON that line. The edge of the 1x4x48 is your bearing surface for a patternmaker bit.

set the depth of the patternmaker so the cut is 1/4 into your floor piece when the router base is resting on the 1x4x48, and run it across your floor with the bearing against the 1x4. You’ll plow a channel into your workpiece 1/4 deep and as wide as the flutes of your patternmaker (mine is 3/4).

[chithead]

Fantastic work on those baffles, they are excellent!!!

[Ge0]

Fantastic work on those baffles, they are excellent!!!

Why thank you sir

Ge0

[Ge0]

draw a line 1 inch in from the edge. This is the cut line, so to speak. Where you want the rabbet to stop. Take an MDF strip that is maybe 1x4x48 or so, and tape it to your board so it is ON that line. The edge of the 1x4x48 is your bearing surface for a patternmaker bit.

set the depth of the patternmaker so the cut is 1/4 into your floor piece when the router base is resting on the 1x4x48, and run it across your floor with the bearing against the 1x4. You’ll plow a channel into your workpiece 1/4 deep and as wide as the flutes of your patternmaker (mine is 3/4).

Ok ok ok. It all makes sense to me now. I was still assuming the use of a rabbet bit. The pattern maker is an entirely different type of bit that I was planning on buying anyway. It will be here tomorrow.

Thanks for the idea. This seems like an easy way to get decent results. Now I need some long enough scrap wood

Ge0

[geolemon]

I'm talking about this bit - a $12 bit rather than a $120 bit - super simple.

Just a strip of straight wood acting as a bumper and guide for your router. Double stick pattern tape to hold it on - but no pattern really required. It's a straight line, it'll be precise. It's just set back so the back of the router touches it, once you reach it. One final pass gently across it and you'll have a clean line.

If instead you buy a pattern bit (top bearing), then I'd make the MDF "pattern" larger, thicker - because your router base will be resting on that, rather than your piece. If it's a thin strip then the router could rock on the strip, resulting in gouges in your cut area.

The other difficulty, I think should be thought through-

I'd advocate working from the edge back towards the bumper (or pattern). The reason is, if you cut along the pattern first, essentially you'll cut a ditch...
If you try to clear the remaining material after that fact, then as you work towards the edge of your piece (away from your original cut), you'll have less and less of the router base on the wood, making it less stable and more risk of damage as you work your way out.

If you do it with a pattern approach, you'll have that problem from the start, even if you DO start cutting at the edge and work your way back to the pattern.

If you do it with a bumper piece set back by that offset of basically half your router (aligning it like I suggest), then you can work your way back, starting from the edge and clearing material until you reach the bumper, with the router properly supported the whole time.


I'm assuming you aren't using a router table here, also. You could, if you are using a router table, using the pattern technique - by using a REALLY thick strip of MDF. In that case you'd have enough stability to prevent rock forward, and rocking back would just lift the area you are cutting - no disaster unless you pushed it forward. That is still more complex though, I think.

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