Scanspeak - Dynaudio - Helix - Bose
Holy cow!
The progress looks awesome - it's just a car and your kids are way nearer the top of the list, of course!
Sometimes I can't believe how kids screw themselves up... I have my own scars of kidhood, the good news is those permanent scars always have a big "lesson learned" behind them - it's one way we grow up!
I think as adults and car audio guys we grow up ourselves. I used to do dedicated hatches and trunks rendered totally useless for storage or carrying, for fear of scratching vinyl or acrylic glass or a painted finish or having something roll into a sub dustcap, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc and etc.
Now, I have a hatchback in part because it's so useful as a hatch, and I want my system to be hidden for daily use, security, but audibly above and beyond... and I see a lot of that here too.
I think that grille looks well reinforced - screws and silicone. It'll be invisible under carpet, and even if it's getting the crap muffled out of it by a load of gear back there - no problem. Looking great...
...sorry to hear of the mini-tragedy of course.
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Prayers coming your way for your son's speedy recovery. My oldest is 8 and got his first razor scooter this weekend. I have lots to look forward to!
That'll be one story to tell. No matter what scar cream you put on that I don't think it's gonna come off. Hopefully there's no nerve damage and he'll be able to have a full recovery. Is there any muscle or anything they had to repair?
Back in October 2019 he and his little brother were screwing around after school. Little brother slams the glass back door in his face. He sticks his arm out to stop the door. His arm went right through a glass panel. Severed nerves and arteries. I work 30 to 45 minutes away. We called 911 to come get him. My house looked like a murder scene. Almost 9 hours in the ER as they stitched him up. They used extra caution with the stitches due to the extent of damage.
On Saturday he just cut through skin and fatty tissue thank god. A woman walking on the same sidewalk as him called 911. Police were there in 3 minutes. I was there in 5. They did a great job wrapping him up to be transported. I think they rushed through the stitching process due to lack of more severe damage. I wish they has did a slightly better job on him. But Saturday night is a pretty busy night in the ER.
Ge0
Scanspeak - Dynaudio - Helix - Bose
I made a little more build progress over the last few days.
Apply silicon seal / adhesive the subwoofer mounting ring to prevent leaks / vibration:
Of course excess material oozes out everywhere
Scrape it off and clean it up. Not too worried about aesthetics. I just want to make sure flocking material and paint will adhere:
Put everything back together:
Almost ready for carpet and such...
I still need to cut 3/4"x1/4" deep rabbets here:
And 1" x 1/4" rabbets here if I want the baffle to sit flush with the floor with carpet installed:
Ge0
Scanspeak - Dynaudio - Helix - Bose
Now seal up the front door midbass rings. I know silicon will not stick well to HDPE but I am not using it for structural support. Only for a gasket. I have 12 screws holding the ring together tight:
Disassemble the rings and apply goop:
Fortunately the scrape off and wipe down of silicon was easy against a surface that is does not soak into / bond to. Just don't let it harden. Then you have a mess to clean up.
Ge0
Scanspeak - Dynaudio - Helix - Bose
Looks awesome.
On those rabbets... You won't like the price of even 3/4" rabbets.
Since you don't need precision even to 1/8" on those to make the lid sit flush, I'd tackle it the easy way:
I believe you have double sided template tape. And I believe you have a standard straight-cut router bit with no bearing. You'll need those.
Take a straight piece of MDF and tape it to the underside of the baffle, parallel to what you want to rabbet out. It'll be inset by 1 1/4" (your rabbet) plus the distance of half your router base, minus half the diameter of your straight cut bit.
...or, since precision isn't crazy - just make a line at 1 1/4" and hold your router so you can use that line like a sight to align the router bit to the cut line, and slide the MDF guide to where it touches the back of the router and make a line. Double-stick tape the MDF guide to the line.
Then I'd just set your depth with a scrap of wood - then start free-routing from the edge, working back from the edge, until you are back at the guide and can use that for a clean line.
Easy and beats buying a $125 bit for the same effect.
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