There's a new IPA I need to try! Looking good!
There's a new IPA I need to try! Looking good!
unfiltered!!
Scanspeak - Dynaudio - Helix - Bose
For these applications, I also use flathead screws with countersunk holes.
I also use aluminum plate because 1/8" is way strong enough and can also be tapped so the components can be held in place with machine screws (10-32 default, socket-head cap screws, with lock and flat washer, unless 8-32 is needed). I also use steel sheet metal, 14ga or similar, it can get pretty thin.
Cuts easy with a bandsaw or hacksaw, and cleans up with a file, then polish on the grinder and the edges are butter smooth. Steel needs paint for corrosion resistance.
Bends introduce lots of risk.
Another option is to use a flat piece of metal, straight. span the whole gap. Then drill the edge of the plate and use machine screws. If you want to use plastic, use threaded inserts as a pseudo helicoil. Buttonhead screws.With c-channel to hold the bottom of the rack. You can use C-channel to hold at the top of the rack too, depends on you, equipment clearances, etc. Channel would be hard soldered to the cross bar then the attachment screws come in through the side rather than the edge.
I have a bunch of plastic laying around so decided to use this. I decided to go with the thicker material so I can insert #8/32 threaded inserts to hold the amp with machine screws. If I need a thinner material I will consider aluminum. Steel has always been a bitch to work with in my experience.
Ge0
Scanspeak - Dynaudio - Helix - Bose
I actually don’t agree with that. I think it looks cleaner to bundle the wire direct off the gear and make a harness like the OEM. Porsche wouldn’t have put the holes in.