2016 Porsche Macan S - stealth SQ build

[Ge0]

GeO,

If you don't mind sharing, where did you get your router bits? Also, is it better to use an upward cutting or downward cutting, or does it depend on how soft or hard of a material? I am still learning how to use my router table.

Thanks for any guidance!

Whiterabbit, I will definitely give the method you describe a shot!!

I'm by far an expert around here. I'm an amateur just like you. I just read a lot now that the first series of Tiger King is over.



I get my bits directly from a Bosch discount outlet near where I work. You can also order them on Amazon.

I've read a lot saying upcut bits are best for plastic. Work good for MDF too. I got my flush cut bit for $5.00 and thought I would try it. Now I hear a upcut flush cut bit may be better for HDPE. I'll see if I can track one down on the cheap. it's just fun working with wood and plastics again after a 10+ year hiatus. Although, I forgot how messy it can be.


Ge0

[Ge0]

@Ge0

Please let me know how you like the Bosch 1617 Router Combo - I too am a Bosch fan and I'm looking at picking up that same combo kit.
Eager to hear your feedback.

So far I'm loving it. Excellent cost to performance ratio. I'll post more detail tomorrow once I do some real work with it. I'm fix'in to finish my spacer rings and amp racks. The only downside is I don't have any dust collection system hooked up. It makes an absolute mess with plastic shavings. But, since I only do this every couple of years that's OK with me.
Attachment 11748

Ge0

[Ge0]

Amp rack today. A 10" deep cavity and two bolt points:





Make pattern 1








Now, work on fitment and cable routing:










I'll transfer the MDF template to 1/4" HDPE tomorrow.

The trick is how do I create brackets that attach from the factory tie down points to the amp rack board. I have an idea of the shape but no way to fabricate in metal.

Ge0

[phroenips]

I've used punched flat steel bars before, bent to shape in a vise. Can cut it with a Dremel cut off wheel (warning, it will result in sharp edges, I have an angle grinder with a flap wheel that I used to soften the edges. A metal file would work too, with more elbow grease

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...2067/204225777

[Ge0]

Top tip so you don’t need a backer board:

set the plunge depth so you cut your rings 1/16” short or so. Then buzz around the ring. No gouges from when the ring frees, because the ring doesn’t get free.. Then, turn the part over and cut through with a utility knife. Then trim the flashing on the table router, or using your trim router.

that trick, plus a plunge base, plus a sharp upcut spiral bit, results in a 1-pass main cut perfectly round.

I think I get what you are saying. Unfortunately that is a little after the fact for me now:



Allthough, now that I have a plunge router using the circle template will be much easier

Ge0

[Ge0]

I've used punched flat steel bars before, bent to shape in a vise. Can cut it with a Dremel cut off wheel (warning, it will result in sharp edges, I have an angle grinder with a flap wheel that I used to soften the edges. A metal file would work too, with more elbow grease

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...2067/204225777

I hear yah. I have a grinder and belt sander. Should be fine. Besides, I have an idea.



A couple bends in these guys should do the trick.

Ge0

[geolemon]

GeO,

If you don't mind sharing, where did you get your router bits? Also, is it better to use an upward cutting or downward cutting, or does it depend on how soft or hard of a material? I am still learning how to use my router table.

Thanks for any guidance!

Whiterabbit, I will definitely give the method you describe a shot!!

Had to chime in...

12 or so years ago I convinced the shop owner to fly in Bryan Schmitt of Mobile Solutions to train our fabrication team, since he had millions of dollars burning holes in his pocket - and this would at least actually improve the shop (unlike flying in a Skyline from Japan). One thing that you always see on Mobile Solutions Instagram (which you should follow, if you don't) are all the cool inlays. We used to use them to flush mount odd-shaped amps, I did light-up autograph panels for Buffalo Bills players (just backlit tinted plexi with the autograph reverse cut-out from regular old vinyl) in their doors that looked black until the door opened... Or like you see from Bryan's classes, just to create cool combos of shapes and materials.

The trick there is to use router bits like this - and also mortise bits - with a bearing kit of interchangeable bearing sizes.
Basically, you can take a template, like an oval. I know I'm probably going to screw this up and going to say this backwards since it's been over 10 years since I did this but - you'll get the gist:

You start with the template, a trace of whatever shape/item you want to do.
You first use the mortising bit with a bearing diameter sized to make a reduction - so you end up with a smaller-than-actual size template.
Then you use that flush trim bit but this time with an oversized bearing, which will cause an enlargement, to cut say, an opening of the perfect size for the original template to fit into. Or - slightly larger by 1/8", if you are going to wrap it in vinyl, then flush mount that thing you made the template of.
There's some basic math involved obviously - you'd want to first reduce it by your second router bit diameter at least... then when you enlarge you might want to oversize that opening by your uphostery material thickness like I said... but it's pretty trick and easy to do. Finish it all off with some roundovers, maybe another template to add a few grooves or other inlays, and you get a pretty cool 3D effect that no one can figure out how you did it.
...or you do that in reverse, if you need to make a panel that fits into something.

Now - this popped into my head because you said "where do you get your router bits?"
And one option - bam. Mobile solutions. Bryan is awesome.
https://www.mobilesolutions-usa.com/router-bits If you want the best, I can attest.
Here's the awesome amazing router bearing kit to make the magic happen:
https://www.mobilesolutions-usa.com/...-page/eco-tray
Their stuff isn't cheap - spit-your-coffee-out in some cases, yeah - but the power that particular tray unlocks is really worth that price. It really is.

Now, I'm willing to spend, but I'm even more willing to save...
So just this year, since Covid hit, I've spent more time than I should admit on the Wish and AliExpress app - all the crap that comes from China.
The router bearing kit popped into my head, so I searched for "router bearing kit" and sure enough:
I found this, and I found this, and just for straight up-cutting templates without sizing I had to grab these, at these prices... had to try.

Bear in mind, this is stuff from China - I ordered it the first week of May and it still hasn't shown up, none of the three packages...
But that's a hell of a price difference (if they ever show up of course)

Other than that, if I need something fast... well... Amazon is always an option, unless you've got a Woodworker's Supply or shop like that local to you. I used to, but sadly no more.

[geolemon]

Amp rack today.


I'll transfer the MDF template to 1/4" HDPE tomorrow.

The trick is how do I create brackets that attach from the factory tie down points to the amp rack board. I have an idea of the shape but no way to fabricate in metal.

Ge0

This is looking killer already. Kind of a shame you'll only get to see the side of that Helix amp - since you've turned me onto them, I really like the machined look of them. As amps go though, that's still a cool looking side.

I'd honestly just use a bracket just like you are showing there - chuck it up in a vice and hammer that guy! If you don't want the vice teeth marks in it, paint sticks actually work pretty well, you can hammer it with a regular hammer without leaving marks to bend it 90 degrees. I think with a corner bracket like that, if you put a bend before the corner, and a bend the other way after the corner, you'll get a straight piece that can screw to your MDF, and another straight piece that can go right over that hole so you can drill a hole and be golden.

I think I would also want to secure this to the bottom, and this could be trick-
https://www.amazon.com/Strong-Magnet...dp/B008H40U10/
88 pounds of force will hold the bottom in place (I was actually thinking of two, but maybe that would be too strong, impossible to get out later), so you just need those two screws up top?
I don't know, just an idea.

[Ge0]

I made my new amp rack today:
















Ready to test subs again...

Ge0

[Ge0]

This is looking killer already. Kind of a shame you'll only get to see the side of that Helix amp - since you've turned me onto them, I really like the machined look of them. As amps go though, that's still a cool looking side.

I'd honestly just use a bracket just like you are showing there - chuck it up in a vice and hammer that guy! If you don't want the vice teeth marks in it, paint sticks actually work pretty well, you can hammer it with a regular hammer without leaving marks to bend it 90 degrees. I think with a corner bracket like that, if you put a bend before the corner, and a bend the other way after the corner, you'll get a straight piece that can screw to your MDF, and another straight piece that can go right over that hole so you can drill a hole and be golden.

I think I would also want to secure this to the bottom, and this could be trick-
https://www.amazon.com/Strong-Magnet...dp/B008H40U10/
88 pounds of force will hold the bottom in place (I was actually thinking of two, but maybe that would be too strong, impossible to get out later), so you just need those two screws up top?
I don't know, just an idea.

Interesting. I was going to screw a U-channel piece of aluminum stock at the bottom to hold the rack. But, YOu showed me I could also glue Neo magnets into place and not put extra holes in my car. I like it. I am going to try this out!!!

Ge0