2016 Porsche Macan S - stealth SQ build

[Ge0]

What a great build! Detail level is astounding. There are kids/adults everywhere looking at that last post top picture saying, "Compass? Is it pointing north?"...

Keep up the great work!

Thanks. I like going into detail so newb's can see how things are done. That's how I learned. Giving back to the community per sey...

EDIT: That and I am getting old (50). I need pictures to remind me how to do stuff

Ge0

[Ge0]

I spent another day finishing up the MDF rings.

This one was a little tricky. The upper ring is so big for the Dynaudio MW182 that it covers up the 9-1/2" diameter vehicle mounting bolt pattern. So, I pre-drilled some notches prior to routing:







I figured out last week that my existing circle cutter could not cut holes smaller than 7-1/2". So I ordered a newer one that allows me to cut the holes I need. The trick was mounting my palm router with non-standard bolt patterns. Clamp the old one to the new on and drill new holes for my palm router.



Back in business:



I don't have a dust collection system. So, I blow it into the back yard. I wonder if MDF dust contains nutrients for grass seedling . Just got rid of an ugly playscape.



Finally. All MDF rings cut. Cripe what a chore with the equipment I have. I would love one of those CNC laser tables. My scrap wood backer board took quite a beating.




Ge0

[Ge0]

Now to clean up the edges. Two hours of sanding...







The left set can accommodate a 10" midbass. The right set an 8" midbass.



I realized after the fact that I chose the wrong center point for my screw head cut-outs. Oh well, it will still work. I can correct this in the HDPE version later this week.





All of this work (8 hours) to create simple templates. I hope the flush trim bit works miracles and makes transferring these shapes to HDPE a breeze. Can't do this work quite yet. FEDEX still has not delivered my plunge router and router shield.

Ge0

[geolemon]

This is for the doors that have those odd looking Bose factory speakers, right?
So you can fit a (slim, I presume) 10' for midbass?
If I'm picturing this right, you are stacking the MDF with the outer ring sized for the 10...
...i imagine that means you'll need to hog out the inside of the inner ring a bit, being smaller?
Or are those actually the 10s in the pic? I didn't think the door metal/opening was sized so well.

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[Ge0]

This is for the doors that have those odd looking Bose factory speakers, right?
So you can fit a (slim, I presume) 10' for midbass?
If I'm picturing this right, you are stacking the MDF with the outer ring sized for the 10...
...i imagine that means you'll need to hog out the inside of the inner ring a bit, being smaller?
Or are those actually the 10s in the pic? I didn't think the door metal/opening was sized so well.

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk

I was going to post pictures of this tonight, but yes. I have enough room for a shallow mount 10" midbass in my front doors. I was going to go with the 8" Dynaudio MW172 at first. But then SkiZer said why would you bother with a MW172 when you can fit the MW182 in the same place? I made the measurements. He was right . Really the MW182 is closer to a 9" driver but who is counting?

The rings are sized appropriately. I needed 1.5" of lift out of the door to safely clear the window mechanism. Two 3/4" MDF spacer rings will do the trick. Or, three 1/2" HDPE rings.

I also made a 2nd set of rings so I can evaluate typical 8" midbass drivers like the Audison AP8. I want the Dyn MW182 to work but at least need to give the AP8 an even shot.

I also purchased some Audiofrog GS690's to try out. However, they are going to fit / look funny. So, I think I am going to return them to Crutchfield.

Ge0

[Ge0]

Some may ask why the heck am I making all these circles? Let's start here:

I need to replicate the shape of the stock door woofer:











So, this is what I created. Fixtures to hold alternative speakers in the proper factory position so they are compatible with the space allocated to speakers in the doors.












The new speaker assemblies can bolt right into the door where the factory woofer would have been.

Ge0

[Ge0]

Wood is easy to cut and manipulate. However, it is prone to moisture damage. The inside of a door gets wet as rain water leaks through the window seals. Wood will absorb this moisture and deteriorate. Therefore, it is better to make these fixtures, or speaker spacers, out of a plastic material made for wet conditions.


The wooden spacer rings will be used as templates to make as many plastic speaker rings as I want. I'm going to try a number of different door midbass speakers. Might as well be prepared for different sizes...



























The new water proof spacer rings are rough cut. In a few days I will show how I can use the wood templates I made to make perfect replicas in plastic.


Ge0

[geolemon]

I think your post #147 pictures didn't work, but I would love to see them - interested if you are going to use inserts or just be careful with your torque screwing into the plastic?

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[Ge0]

I think your post #147 pictures didn't work, but I would love to see them - interested if you are going to use inserts or just be careful with your torque screwing into the plastic?

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk

I'm pretty fed up with this forum and its image hosting. I upload directly to the forums server. Sometimes it works, sometimes it does not.

To answer your question. HDPE is a difficult material to glue. Therefore I rely on mechanical fasteners (screws) to hold things together. I will use these screws to hold the speakers in. The screw will also hold 2 layers of rings together:



I have a safe torque set on my driver to prevent stripping out the hole.

I will apply a bead of silicon between rings to help create a seal in the absence of a good adhesive.

Ge0

[geolemon]

Pictures showed up and they look awesome.

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