2019 F250 Build

[Chris72]

Hey everyone.

I’m new here and I’m hoping members can help me with guiding me on an install of a set of front component speakers, rear coaxial speakers, LOC, 5 channel amp, and a sub to the factory stereo with Sync 3 (no external amplifier and no factory sub).

Here’s the list of items I’ve purchased:
1). JL C5650
2). JL C2650
3). JL VX700-5i
4). JL 94462 Stealthbox
5). FSB1501 - Front speaker adapters
6). FSB1502 - Rear speaker adapters
7). ME M2KIT4B - 4 gauge amp wiring kit
8). 3 PACKS SPEAKER WIRE (2- 16g, 1- 12g)
9). ME M217 – 2 - wire RCA Connections
10). PAC LP54 - LOC
11). JL DRC205 – this is a multi-function knob for VXi amplifiers that controls sub level and other programmable features (makes operation from driver seat easier).
12). JL VXIBTC – this is a Bluetooth interface to allow control of the VXi amplifier via smart device (makes tuning much easier)
13). MM MDMSK (2) - sound damping

I had an appointment scheduled at Best Buy for them to do the install for $200 which I thought was a steal, but they cancelled due to COVID-19 so I’m thinking about trying to do the install myself.

I’ve done tons and tons and tons of extremely complicated home audio stuff, but I haven’t messed with car audio in 25 years and it seems that everything has gotten much more complex. I used to throw in new head units and Amp/eq’s by myself without ever needing to ask any questions to anyone. Now, I don’t even know what the first step should be.

Should it be installing the LOC? It’s a 4 channel LOC, so I’d need to connect my existing front component and my existing rear coaxial speaker line to it. So where should the LOC be mounted? Under the dash, or somewhere in the back of my Crew Cab? Not sure where I’m going to get power for it, or where to ground it.

I think the system would go like this:
Stereo > speaker wires > LOC > RCA wire > amp > speaker wire > speakers

How about the stealthbox? The amp’s 5th channel is dedicated to the sub, but I don’t have a line-in signal to amplify for the sub? Do I split one of the other speakers from the LOC and run both to the amp? Is the crossover in the stealthbox so it’ll only play low frequencies?

So many questions.

I’ll take some picks of the gear tomorrow in their boxes. Nothing has been opened yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[beak81champ]

Welcome!

[Gurpreet]

Welcome! Look forward to the build.

[chithead]

Looks like a great install in the making.

Welcome to the best mobile audio forum on the interweb!!!

Your thinking is correct on routing - Stereo > speaker wires > LOC > RCA wire > amp > speaker wire > speakers - probably best to grab the signal from behind the radio, then you can route speaker wire from the amps back to the harness if you want to keep it simple. If you plan on running all new wires into the doors, can do that to direct from the amplifier.

For the subwoofer though, check the manual for that amplifier. With all it's wonderful tuning options, I would believe you can just assign signal from any of the other input channels (or combination of channels) for the subwoofer output.

[farfromovin]

I don't know if that Sync system gives you a flat signal or not, but if it doesn't, you run your signals into the amp and route them through the pre-out EQ then run the pre-outs back into another input pair (or the digital input even). This will give you an input EQ!
So if your Sync system puts out a flat signal you had it right:
Stereo > speaker wires > LOC > RCA wire > amp > speaker wire > speakers

But if it adds a funky eq to the mix that you want to flatten first:
Stereo > speaker wires > LOC > RCA wire > amp > digital out > digital into amp > speaker wire > speakers

--edit-- I'm almost certain you can ditch the LOC entirely. The VXi will take up to 16v input from your radio, so as long as it's not super amplified, it'll probably be able to be your LOC as well. Use one of these or a DIY alternative to go from speaker output from your head unit to the RCA input on the amp:
https://www.jlaudio.com/products/xd-...ker-wire-90435

[Jdunk54nl]

Sync puts out a flat signal on the front, rear is high passed at 80hz on the 2016+ vehicles.

2014 and earlier is flat for most of the ACM asbuilt settings, but there are some that aren't. I measured the 2014 and earlier and others have measured the 2016+.

2015 is a weird crossover year that it has newer modules but still running sync2. I don't know if anyone has measured that.

Here is the data for 2014.
https://www.f150forum.com/f30/head-u...-level-467373/