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Thread: Ask an Acoustic Engineer (me)

  1. Back To Top    #361

    Re: Ask an Acoustic Engineer (me)

    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Zazzi View Post
    This was mostly trial and error. No matter how many times I tuned, some piercing screechy stuff was always bothering me and it turned out that a cut in that range was what I needed to tame it. For me.

    I tried adding this cut for a few other people's cars and they liked it, so it became part of my routine.

    Also, jdunk's reply too.
    I added your dip to the Audiofrog house curve, and I agree that it cuts fatigue and just makes listening a more pleasant experience.

  2. Back To Top    #362
    Wave Shepherd - aka Jazzi Justin Zazzi's Avatar
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    Re: Ask an Acoustic Engineer (me)

    Quote Originally Posted by ckirocz28 View Post
    and just makes listening a more pleasant experience.
    Winning!
    Measure with mics, mark with chalk, cut with torch, grind to fit, sand to finish, paint to match.
    Updated Justin tuning sheet (Justin and Erica tuning companion for SMAART and REW)
    Do it for them.

  3. Back To Top    #363

    Re: Ask an Acoustic Engineer (me)

    Thanks man I appreciate it! If the Sauce ever becomes public knowledge I'll be waiting 😂 or just know I won't treat ya like Duke from Bush's baked beans.
    I'm a daily rider not a trailer to the sound off comp guy so I'm not willing (YET) to give up all my space for audio .... Yet 😂. I do have some lofty goals but that's just my personal preference. I've already built the best sounding bike in my group with a single amp/DSP combo and 4 drivers. I think it's time to step up to some PA drivers tho and really get things dialed in. The Faitalpro drivers are looking like some budget gems. Unfortunately I'm limited to 5.25 up front and the deepest 6.5 you can fit in Tourpack Pods with 1" spacers. Honda really screwed the audio pooch with the Goldwing layout.
    Bass shakers have been mentioned before... That's definitely an interesting idea... Just can't imagine slicing up my custom Corbin heated touring saddle and it being comfortable tho 😂.

  4. Back To Top    #364
    Wave Shepherd - aka Jazzi Justin Zazzi's Avatar
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    Re: Ask an Acoustic Engineer (me)

    I have some of the secret sauce at my house right now actually! I'm probably not supposed to share this, but I won't tell anyone if you don't!


    Click image for larger version. 

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    Measure with mics, mark with chalk, cut with torch, grind to fit, sand to finish, paint to match.
    Updated Justin tuning sheet (Justin and Erica tuning companion for SMAART and REW)
    Do it for them.

  5. Back To Top    #365

    Re: Ask an Acoustic Engineer (me)

    Click image for larger version. 

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    This is my Accuton 6.5" midbass with 3D printed mounting. Would i improve anything doing thick aluminum mounting like on other pic? Worth it? Thank you.

  6. Back To Top    #366
    Wave Shepherd - aka Jazzi Justin Zazzi's Avatar
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    Re: Ask an Acoustic Engineer (me)

    I don't think so? The printed baffle you have looks well done.
    Measure with mics, mark with chalk, cut with torch, grind to fit, sand to finish, paint to match.
    Updated Justin tuning sheet (Justin and Erica tuning companion for SMAART and REW)
    Do it for them.

  7. Back To Top    #367

    Re: Ask an Acoustic Engineer (me)

    Quote Originally Posted by Kb86 View Post
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    This is my Accuton 6.5" midbass with 3D printed mounting. Would i improve anything doing thick aluminum mounting like on other pic? Worth it? Thank you.
    What did you print it out of?

    I ask because PLA has a pretty low melting temperature. Even a house number I 3D printed that rarely gets direct sun is melting, and I'm in Buffalo on the literal Canadian border.


    Cars get hotter inside than ambient outdoors, so you won't want those to be PLA.
    https://3dsolved.com/is-pla-heat-res...petg-and-more/

    I have some ASA that I bought (ABS is good too) because it has a higher temperature, and because there's a process for annealing that can make it even higher, specifically so I could print stuff for in-car use.

    And it's pretty inexpensive. Print it solid with 100% fill and between the thickness and ASA it'll be good for the long haul.

    Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

  8. Back To Top    #368

    Re: Ask an Acoustic Engineer (me)

    I have my system done by a pro. I dont know what material he used. Im pretty sure he took it into consideration. Thank you for your warning.

  9. Back To Top    #369

    Re: Ask an Acoustic Engineer (me)

    Hi Justin,

    Can i have an advice on this pls? I have a pretty high end gears installed by a pro. However, he could not find Zen M at time. Also, he explained that Zen M does have few problems like delay, bugs, etc... thus he go high level into a helix Ultra and work from there. He said he carefully tested and the signal was good to use that way.

    Now after 6 months of having the car, i have a change to let him install the Zen M at the cost of additional labour and sending my car 2000km to a shop.

    The car does sound good as it is now. Good enough represent the gears? i dont know. This is my first system.

    My question is, could going high level actually sound as good as doing it digitally via Zen M? How much did i miss doing it in high level way? would it be noticeable and worth all the hustle? I keep wondering.


    in case u need more infor, my system is:

    Oem Mercedes 2021 Burmester Head Unit
    High level to Helix Ultra
    Eton Core A2 Amps
    All Accuton automotive speakers.

    Many thanks.

  10. Back To Top    #370
    Wave Shepherd - aka Jazzi Justin Zazzi's Avatar
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    Re: Ask an Acoustic Engineer (me)

    It looks like the Zen M is a factory integration device. These are nice because they allow all your features to keep working like steering wheel controls, bluetooth, fade and balance, etc. These are also nice because sometimes they trick the radio into outputting a flat signal that is easier to work with, instead of using the high-level signals which are already processed and difficult to work with.

    I do not think you will notice a difference between the high level signal and the digital signal just because they use different kinds of wires. I think you will notice a difference between the signals that are coming out of the high-level factory amplifier vs the signal that will come out of the Zen M factory integration device.

    All that said, I am not familiar with the MOST bus or Mercedes factory sound systems or the Zen M device. I'm too busy saving for a house that I can't afford so I cannot pay to ship my car 2000km, but it sounds like you can. Maybe I should work in your office instead.
    Measure with mics, mark with chalk, cut with torch, grind to fit, sand to finish, paint to match.
    Updated Justin tuning sheet (Justin and Erica tuning companion for SMAART and REW)
    Do it for them.

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