4" midrange recommendations

[nadams5755]

I do still think about a pair of 12M's or 12MU occasionally. Or possibly doing something absolutely crazy and different.. AP NZ3 maybe, or the Ganesha (point-source/coaxial/whatever ya call it)

it's a shame AP stopped making/selling the AR3-A, it was a fantastic midrange. i'm looking forward to other dedicated midranges they release.

also if you're doing a tweeter? use a dedicated midrange instead of a wideband to get some more oomph/authority at the lower frequencies (160-300hz).

[Hillbilly SQ]

GB25's in my car now mated to GB10's and GB60's are crossed at 350 to 3500 Hz LR4 with no issue.. I recently bumped it from 300-3600 to 350-3500 to attempt to remove some of the bandwidth burden from them and I think just that 50hz highpass change made a world of difference.

I do still think about a pair of 12M's or 12MU occasionally. Or possibly doing something absolutely crazy and different.. AP NZ3 maybe, or the Ganesha (point-source/coaxial/whatever ya call it)

https://www.slaacoustics.com/collect...udible-physics

I'm actually going to work on a tune that's less hifi and more real sounding in the way of ripping your head off while still sounding pretty good. 300-4000 with LR4 slopes sounds damn good with my gb25's but the dynamics could be better. I'm thinking 400 or even 500-4000 might do better with a more capable midbass that I can dump power on and then maybe go back to the Seas Neo Aluminum tweet since I really like those tweeters and can cross way lower than my LPG's and drop right into the LPG cups. This way I can solve my dash location anomalies up top by crossing at 3k. Just one of those things where you have to let the install tell you what it wants and not try to force it.

OP-we're all basically trying to tell you that in car audio you're making the best out of a bad situation (the room) by doing whatever it takes with install and tuning to get the best results possible. When you have install restraints caused by fabrication skill limitations and/or insisting on keeping at least somewhat of a factory look like myself you're at mercy of the processor to pull off a miracle providing the one tuning at least halfway knows what they're doing. Throwing money at a problem caused by install and/or lack of tuning skills is just insanity. Fix the problem at hand THEN decide if swapping speakers is needed.

[cueball981]

^^^^
So true!!! I could have easily decided to not use the inexpensive speakers I already had on-hand and thrown more money at my install than I needed to. I am glad I kept things the way they are, even if I did get some razzing about using some cheap coaxial speakers. LOL! My system sounds great for what it is...after having some awesome folks here in the area teach me some tuning skills!

Thank you for posting your message above, Hillbilly! It'll help save this guy (OP) some money, I hope!

[SkizeR]

I just recently added the GB25's, replacing the midranges from the Pioneer set.* The GB25's seem to be detailed, and get loud, but they tend to scream at higher volume levels.* This is with a lowish 40 watts on each of them.* I've tried lowering the levels on them considerably, but they seem to lose that detail that I like about them.* I'm sure I could do a lot more eq work to get the sound that I'm looking for, but I'd prefer something that takes less adjustments.

This is an issue that swapping speakers wont really fix. Actually tune the setup properly and fix the frequency response that the environment is causing. Swapping a 2.5" driver with a flat response and very low distortion for an equally good 4" driver will actually result in a worse outcome than what you already have in this specific situation.

[SkizeR]

I'm actually going to work on a tune that's less hifi and more real sounding

this is a contradiction...

[Hillbilly SQ]

this is a contradiction...

Yes and I had two contradictions in that post now that I think about it. What I was trying to say in my haste to post then get out the door was I want to take strain off the gb25's so I can "open up" the sound to get more impact. Like it or not some things just sound better with cone area and the gb25 is still just a 2.5" speaker even though it's a very capable 2.5" speaker. It's a push getting them down to a flat 300 with screaming output in my dash locations and changing the tune will be easier than changing the install. If I'm gonna blow something up from overpowering it's gonna be the cheaper speakers in the doors pulling midbass/lower midrange dutyFidelity probably won't be quite as good but my goals in this hobby are changing. My heart just isn't in it like it used to be. To be honest I don't even spend enough time in my truck to justify car audio anymore but what I have is there and really nice gear for the most part so may as well enjoy it until the truck gets traded 5-6 years from now.

Sorry for derailing this thread y'all. Had to explain my contradiction and address the elephant in the room.

[ryyo]

Thanks all for the responses. I will try out some of the suggestions mentioned. I've been out of car audio for a while now, and have forgotten much of what I learned years ago. Unfortunately, everything is being done by ear, for now, due to not having a proper rta/mic setup and laptop and the knowledge to use them. I can definitely tell when something doesn't sound right, but also don't always know how to fix the issues. Hopefully I can get in contact with a very well respected tuner/former competitor if he still lives in my area and see if he'd be willing to tune my system.