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Thread: MMATS Amplifier - Replacing the Crappy Screws on the Power Block

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    MMATS Amplifier - Replacing the Crappy Screws on the Power Block

    There isn't much to complain about, with regards to MMATS amplifiers. For the most part, they are rock solid.
    However, after owning a couple of them for a few years... I've come across a few things that could use improvement:

    A few months back, I had posted an article on how to replace the noisy fan:
    https://www.caraudiojunkies.com/show...ighlight=mmats

    Now I am posting about something that seems fairly simple... but definitely is an improvement over the OEM design:
    Replacing the Crappy Philips Screws on the Power Block

    Just to clarify;
    If you are inserting bare copper 4awg wire, you don't need to crank the terminals down that hard. In which case; this is a total non-issue.
    But when I started using copper ferrules... that's when I stripped the Philips screw heads.
    The ferrules use the pressure of the lug screw to crush-down and hold the wire in place.

    I replaced the Philips screws with M6 x 10 Allen Screws (actually they are called Grub Screws):
    https://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Base-Sta...0349653&sr=8-8

    Remove the stripped Philips screws (just unscrew them all the way out):
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Replace with M6 x 10 Grub Screws:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Crank 'em down good and tight with an Allen wrench (you can tighten them way better than with a Philips screwdriver):
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by JimmyDee; 01-30-2020 at 10:50 AM.
    New Car... Stock Stereo

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    DIYMA Janitor SkizeR's Avatar
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    Re: MMATS Amplifier - Replacing the Crappy Screws on the Power Block

    I absolutely hate Phillip's head screws, especially for stuff like this. Why hex or torx isnt the standard is beyond me but good on you for fixing it. Side note, terminals shouldnt be cranked down on.

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

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    Senior Member jrwalte's Avatar
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    Re: MMATS Amplifier - Replacing the Crappy Screws on the Power Block

    Wow I'm shocked they used a Phillip's screw head. Someone there needs to be slapped. I would be mad if I spent that much on an amp and got shitty screws like that.

    What do you mean the terminals shouldn't be cranked down on? Doesn't that make the power flow better

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    Re: MMATS Amplifier - Replacing the Crappy Screws on the Power Block

    Quote Originally Posted by jrwalte View Post
    What do you mean the terminals shouldn't be cranked down on? Doesn't that make the power flow better
    When I was just inserting bare copper 4awg wire, I didn't crank the terminals down that hard (didn't need to).
    But when I started using copper ferrules... that's when I stripped the Philips screw heads.
    The ferrules use the pressure of the lug screw to crush-down and hold the wire in place.
    New Car... Stock Stereo

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    Refuses to grow up... mumbles's Avatar
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    Re: MMATS Amplifier - Replacing the Crappy Screws on the Power Block

    yeah, phillips are the worst... well, actually standards are the worst, followed by phillips good call on replacing them!

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    BURNED OUT Hillbilly SQ's Avatar
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    Re: MMATS Amplifier - Replacing the Crappy Screws on the Power Block

    Sometimes I wonder if Philips screws are their way of keeping people from "cranking down" on them. It's easy for a brute like myself to strip out screws with an allen wrench. One of the allen screws on my Zapco ST-4x SQ is partially stripped on the power block so...but it holds "good enough" for now.
    They might say "don't try this at home" but nothing about not trying it at your friend's house.

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    DIYMA Janitor SkizeR's Avatar
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    Re: MMATS Amplifier - Replacing the Crappy Screws on the Power Block

    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyDee View Post
    When I was just inserting bare copper 4awg wire, I didn't crank the terminals down that hard (didn't need to).
    But when I started using copper ferrules... that's when I stripped the Philips screw heads.
    The ferrules use the pressure of the lug screw to crush-down and hold the wire in place.
    you really should reconsider how you crimp your ferrules..

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    BURNED OUT Hillbilly SQ's Avatar
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    Re: MMATS Amplifier - Replacing the Crappy Screws on the Power Block

    I'll stick with bare wire, lol.
    They might say "don't try this at home" but nothing about not trying it at your friend's house.

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    Senior Member jrwalte's Avatar
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    Re: MMATS Amplifier - Replacing the Crappy Screws on the Power Block

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillbilly SQ View Post
    Sometimes I wonder if Philips screws are their way of keeping people from "cranking down" on them. It's easy for a brute like myself to strip out screws with an allen wrench. One of the allen screws on my Zapco ST-4x SQ is partially stripped on the power block so...but it holds "good enough" for now.
    That just sounds like you have a bad hex set. I know this from experience with RC helis and cars. A quality set goes a long way in not stripping grub screws/bolts. Since buying my quality set I've never stripped one.

    https://www.scorpionsystem.com/catalog/tools_1/

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    Re: MMATS Amplifier - Replacing the Crappy Screws on the Power Block

    Quote Originally Posted by SkizeR View Post
    you really should reconsider how you crimp your ferrules..
    How do you crimp yours? I must admit I like the method of using the amplifier terminal as it makes the ferrule the same shape as the terminal and gets better surface area contact vs a hexagonal crimp or other method

    I also tend to insert the ferrule partially at cost and ‘crimp’ it, then slacken it and insert fully and ‘crimp’ it again 👍🏼

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