This Noob's starter active setup...Please advise

[Maxmil982]

I like where this is going. You have some pretty solid equipment already.

My only recommendation, is unless you are using sealed or weather preventative enclosures, then narrow the choice to mobile audio specific equipment if possible. And I would definitely start with just tweeters and woofers for now. Learn to utilize and tune them to awesome capabilities, then let the dedicated midrange curiosity kick in later.

What might your budget be for the component set? I've used these before and REALLY liked them - Rockford Fosgate Power T1675-S

Budget for the front speakers is $200-250 up to $300 if necessary. I have a component set of Kicker KSS65 new. They only have a sensitivity of 88db and it was recommended to not go less than 92db in order to keep up with the SA-12, I'm just assuming that's a good recommendation and am now looking for just a set of Mids that have at least 93db and can take over the low mid bass down at 50-55hz where the sub will end... I know low and loud is not entirely realistic, just trying to get the loudest ones that will get low. I'm looking at the Polk MM 6502, they have 93db and 35hz low end response. What do you think about the Polks?...any other options you can think of?

[SublimeZ]

I don't think you are gonna have a front stage that will keep up with that sub flat out. That doesn't mean all is lost. Midbass will be the bottleneck. My advice would be bridge the 4 channel to something like this https://www.parts-express.com/morel-...-ohms--297-006, then a small 2 channel to large format tweet like this https://www.parts-express.com/morel-...eeter--277-010 on axis.

A bass knob will help. Tune the system with knob at minimum, then twist to show off I've had several systems that were very similar and will rock and sound good doing it. Good luck

[Maxmil982]

I don't think you are gonna have a front stage that will keep up with that sub flat out. That doesn't mean all is lost. Midbass will be the bottleneck. My advice would be bridge the 4 channel to something like this https://www.parts-express.com/morel-...-ohms--297-006, then a small 2 channel to large format tweet like this https://www.parts-express.com/morel-...eeter--277-010 on axis.

A bass knob will help. Tune the system with knob at minimum, then twist to show off I've had several systems that were very similar and will rock and sound good doing it. Good luck

Sounds like a great option. The ppi amp I have does 425rms @4ohm × 2 (bridged). The Morel you sent is only rated 150rms. Is it underrated, and will get much louder with all the extra watts?

[SublimeZ]

Sounds like a great option. The ppi amp I have does 425rms @4ohm × 2 (bridged). The Morel you sent is only rated 150rms. Is it underrated, and will get much louder with all the extra watts?

It's an 8ohm woofer, so amp output will be ~1/2. As long as the power is clean (not clipped) it will easily handle it.Yes, it will be louder.

[Maxmil982]

It's an 8ohm woofer, so amp output will be ~1/2. As long as the power is clean (not clipped) it will easily handle it.Yes, it will be louder.

May I have a small 2 channel amp suggestion?

[SublimeZ]

May I have a small 2 channel amp suggestion?

I have this https://www.woofersetc.com/c-3-ampli...amplifier.html

[blockrocker]

A bass knob is a must if you're trying to bridge the SQ and SPL worlds together. I am building a similar system to you, Maxmil982. Mine is a 3-way front stage, my first one after years of two way. I have a 15" Fi Audio BTL-3 subwoofer powered by the Crescendo S1+ amplifier (2500rms @ 1ohm). So like you, tonnes of bass and a front stage that can be drowned out with on the right songs. However, the bass knob is a miracle worker for systems like this. Personally, I tune with my bass knob all the way up, then turn it down on songs that don't need full woofer juice. I would try SublimeZ way first though, his experience is huge. In fact, I should also give that a try.

[Hillbilly SQ]

Just remember, for what the goal of this system still seems to be judging by the OP efficiency AND power handling from a known good sounding speaker is king. And like I said earlier you can always have a tune with lower cross points on mid and tweet for pure SQ and have a tune with higher cross points on mid and tweet so they'll have a better chance of keeping up with the sub without hitting mechanical limits. Still need to keep thermal limits in mind thoughAnd make sure your doors are strategically deadened to be as close to being a bomb shelter as possible

[Jbird61801]

Thanks man I'll look into the Steven's and Morel. LBAudio suggested going 3-way, have you built any 3-way SPal setups?

Following and reading through this thread a little bit. I'm always budget minded and looking to use existing equipment. My vote would be to look into those Stevens audio mb6 one more time. They make a 2 ohm version. Using those and your PPI amp to run your front stage would give each mid 250w rms and tweets 145w rms. They have a large magnet and a 3 inch top mount depth so it can get really snug in a car door. But they are made for a car door and play plenty loud and clean.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[Maxmil982]

Just remember, for what the goal of this system still seems to be judging by the OP efficiency AND power handling from a known good sounding speaker is king. And like I said earlier you can always have a tune with lower cross points on mid and tweet for pure SQ and have a tune with higher cross points on mid and tweet so they'll have a better chance of keeping up with the sub without hitting mechanical limits. Still need to keep thermal limits in mind thoughAnd make sure your doors are strategically deadened to be as close to being a bomb shelter as possible

Any suggestions for door treatment besides dampener, ccf, mlv, and sealing up the holes?