Man, y'all are really sealing the deal for this behind the seat amplifier mounting. Very nice work!
Man, y'all are really sealing the deal for this behind the seat amplifier mounting. Very nice work!
Are you not entertained?!?!
It is nice. I can also remove everything in less than 10 minutes. 4 bolts and the input signal cables and speaker out cables and it pulls right out.
I tried to design my amp rack as big as possible while going around all of the stuff like window motors and control boxes that are mounted on the back wall. That way IF I ever want to change amps/dsp, I don't have to make a new amp rack. I doubt I will ever change amps because the only ones I would ever swap to at this point would be the mosconi pro's or the biketronics and I can't justify the cost of doing that. But dsp...that might get changed..
2014 F150 Limited -> Kenwood DDX-9907xr -> Helix DSP.2 -> Alpine PDX-V9 -> SI M25 mki in Valicar Stuttgart Pods, Rear SB17's, Sub SI BM MKV's in MTI BOX. Alpine PDX-F6 -> SI Tm65 mkIV, SI M3 mkI in Valicar Stuttgart Pods
I've seen Jacob's setup in person. It's very well done and does allow room for proper venting. I have enough material to make another board, then modify the current one. We'll see how it goes.
Good deal. My setup will just be the AmpPro - optical into the DSP, then from that into two amps. Shouldn't be too much of a headache, hopefully. Purchased the wiring harness also to splice under the driver's seat. Not wanting to run any wires into the doors and all that.
Are you not entertained?!?!
Chit, one thing I would do is make sure to deaden the wall really well. There's a lot of thin spots that resonate quite a bit. I had to go a couple of layers in a few spots to increase the rigidity enough to my liking. A couple of areas to focus on are behind the C-pillars, especially the outer panels. As you can see in some of my past pictures, I covered everything with a layer of closed-cell foam to make things look tidy as well as ensure the back panel (which I had to cut to make room for the amp rack) didn't cause any rattles.
Did you remove that carpeted piece that goes behind the seat?
Are you not entertained?!?!
I used the stock wiring too. Working just fine given the amount of power I'm running. I'm not too concerned to feel the need...and the headache...of running new wire. I wish PAC made a T-harness for the amp though. Without removing the front seat, it was a pain to fiddle around under there. Yes, I was able to get the job done, but not as clean as I would have liked. You may consider removing the seat when you do yours.
Last edited by cueball981; 02-11-2020 at 12:07 PM.
How exactly did you do the splicing? I purchased the harness from Maestro aCH4 to use as a T-harness for splicing and remove that Active Noise crap. iDatalink Maestro aCH4
Ok that's good to know. I wasn't sure if it would be better to just leave it off, or cut and put as much back on as possible.
Are you not entertained?!?!
The back carpets for most trucks are somewhere around $100-$200 if you ever need to replace it. Or cut it in a way that you could zip tie it back together if you ever sell the vehicle. I will just buy a new one or not worry about it when I sell this truck.
They do block quite a bit of noise too. I'd try to fit as much as possible back on.
Last edited by Jdunk54nl; 02-11-2020 at 12:29 PM.
2014 F150 Limited -> Kenwood DDX-9907xr -> Helix DSP.2 -> Alpine PDX-V9 -> SI M25 mki in Valicar Stuttgart Pods, Rear SB17's, Sub SI BM MKV's in MTI BOX. Alpine PDX-F6 -> SI Tm65 mkIV, SI M3 mkI in Valicar Stuttgart Pods