Tune #3

[blockrocker]

this of course, should be checked. But, i can say that in my experience this is not uncommon considering the setup he has. As a matter of fact, i'd say he should expect it. This isnt exactly fixable without swapping gear, so we might as well focus on what can be fixed via tuning. There are still some phase issues in the crossover region that can be addressed, but i dont think this sub will ever sound great. Thats okay though. Thats not what they are designed for.

I'm kind of wondering this myself. I had the box designed by Peter Kulichi @ Audio Dynamics. He built the box to spec and gave me full design and build instructions. The response graph that came with the plans showed a pretty flat response all the way to 80. I don't know what to think.

[Queef]

blockrocker , any luck with wires flipped ? Were you able to flip box ( upside is now on bottom ) port shifted to drivers side ?
How's the sound ?

[ckirocz28]

Could we be looking at extreme cabin gain? I get the same sort of response from my subs, although mine are sealed and measure almost flat to 55 hz then roll off sharply above that. They measure flat to 120 hz in my house.

[blockrocker]

blockrocker , any luck with wires flipped ? Were you able to flip box ( upside is now on bottom ) port shifted to drivers side ?
How's the sound ?

No, sorry Queef. I've had some company in town this weekend. They leave later today, so I will give these suggestions a try ASAP. I promise to keep you posted!

[SkizeR]

Flipping wires is pointless. He can do that in the processor and you can also see in the graph that they are not totally out of phase.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[Queef]

If there is cancellation . . .
Grinder & Smitty are here , they will think of something .

SkizeR is on it and he will head you in the right direction , blockrocker ! Don't waste your time or energy on my ideas , a new sub could make a difference on upper end of frequencies .

Thanks SkizeR for weighing in , as I was grasping at straws .

[SkizeR]

i also just noticed that you have a big dip at 150hz or so when playing the drivers side with the sub. can you take measurements of the driver side front only, passanger side front only, and sub only? im thinking you might have a midbass driver out of phase, or your response on one of them is way off from the other.

[blockrocker]

I appreciate all the great suggestions everyone has been making. Learning and experimenting on car audio is always time well spent for me. When our house guests leave this evening, I will try to get some more graphs going, as well as, double check some of the others things mentioned in the thread. I'm also going to go through all my connections with my new oscope. Good times ahead!!

Thanks everyone, I will post updates asap!

[Queef]

Enjoy the company , vehicle will be there when you are ready ! [ I hope that around 150 hz is not a null , some have tried to bring frequencies down around a null and then adjust curve to include a lesser output around affected area. Nulls/suck outs are no fun , at all ]

Good Luck !

[blockrocker]

I managed to do some more tuning today, with some positive steps forward. However, it has opened up a few new questions for me to learn the answers to. First, I managed to figure out my sub crossover issue.....sort of. I can now get my box to play to 80hz-ish and can flatten it out with some serious EQ. It seems my desire to be a basshead with a SQ front end is proving to be a major challenge. LOL. My based up house curve was essentially giving me a 60hz crossover due to being so freaking loud - and trying to get down to +6 db @ 80hz and 0db @ 200hz. Tuning to that curve was simply not letting my sub stretch that far, that loud.

So I have changed my curve a little bit and got a nicer slope from sub to woofs, not great, but better. Lessons learned! I have noticed however, that my response from 200-2000 seems to be identical, despite fresh tunes with different crossover points. I know that there is still some room for improvement on the overall tune, but I'm noticing the same cancellation/deconstruction spots at 220 and 345 as well as that trough from 600-800 (this is less of a worry).

So my questions are: Is it possible to tell what is causing this cancellation? Is it install related? Is it equipment related? Is it crossover/tune related? Or is it just something I have to live with? Comb filtering?
In theory, would sealed boxes in the doors eliminate this with a more predictable response? Or would it be same shit different pile?



This is my tune#3 (blue) and my tune#4, with the newer curve (red). My passenger and driver sides show a very flat response in these areas, when played by them selves, but as soon as I sum the two sides, I get the above graphs. So please let me know what you think. You won't hurt my feelings, so be brutal.