#21
Got the wiring all finished yesterday
#22
I finished up the sub level control knob today. I should have finished the trunk floor trim panels, but I got tired of not having my center console in the car and I wanted to try out my new flush trim router bit.
The first pic is of the stock rubber insert. I took this out and cut out a piece of 1/4" MDF to match the shape, then added two layers of MDF (3/8" then 1/4") to the front of the panel to raise it up so the circuitry of the knob would clear the vent underneath. This was my first time using filler to make a piece like this fit perfectly and it wasn't too bad. To secure it, I used one screw in the front and bent a piece of aluminum and used it as a clamp in back.
To finish the panel I sprayed on some high-build primer and then some Landau Black SEM paint. I was originally going to use some SEM texture finish to give the panel some texture, but since the inside is smooth (and I didn't have any texture) I ended up not sanding the final coat of primer. I'm not terribly happy with the result on this, and I think I know why people use acrylic for this type of thing. The paint has too much sheen on it and it highlights some otherwise minor flaws. In the end I'm just going to keep it because it's hidden and I rarely open the armrest anyway.
If I'm honest, it's a horrible place for a level control because it's awkward to get to. Ideally it would be in front of the gear shift, but I wanted that space open. Using only part of it and trimming the rubber insert was my first idea, but because it's a BMW that piece of rubber costs about $50 shipped to my house. So based on principle I opted to keep things hidden.
#23
I have sound!
After a bit of time I was able to figure out the Helix software and get a basic configuration in the car. Very happy to report no charging system noise. The noise floor is pretty high, at least compared to stock, and the noise of the CD player is actually not quiet at all. I do know it was present in the stock system but I'm wondering if there's a way to reduce it. Sub is super quiet but gains are not yet set.
Now the real work begins. I've never tuned a car with a DSP before and my ears are really out of practice. I'm just going to get the system broken in a bit this week, and I've started with crossover points at 80Hz @24dB, 250Hz @24dB, and based on the Morel's passive crossover design 2200Hz at 12dB (Butterworth). I'm very open to any suggestions here.
Time alignment is set by crude measurements but thanks to Nick Apicella's tutorials I think I can get a handle on that.
Another issue is that I have really only set gains before by ear. I'm not going to pop for a distortion detector so I'll have to read up on how to set gains another way. Which will probably involve purchasing a fancy multimeter.
This is the first time I've seen the sub enclosure in the car and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out!
#24
Good job on the install.. if its ready to be tuned, check out my Helix Auto EQ video stickied in the tuning section of this forum.
#25
Thanks, Nick! Already have the video open in another window...Originally Posted by SkizeR
Last edited by ejeffrey; 01-22-2020 at 04:09 PM.
#26
I’m not far from you. if you want a hand with tuning or feedback, let me know
#27
Hey Nick, that would be awesome. This weekend I'm (hopefully) going to dial in the relative levels, time alignment, and try the Helix autotune function. Once I get things in a reasonable state, though, I'd love your input. Will definitely be in touch.I’m not far from you. if you want a hand with tuning or feedback, let me know
#28
Today I was able to get a really good tune in the car with the help of the Helix auto-EQ function and the car sounds great!. Even better, I can tell there's quite a bit more potential as well. The gains are set properly so the system noise is acceptable and the gong volume is only slightly louder than stock.
Another cool thing I haven't touched on yet was the park distance control. I wanted to have it function like it does with the stock system but I didn't want any rear fill. I was able to do this by running the front outputs of the head unit to the DSP and then on to the amp inputs for the front speakers and the sub, but the rear channels go directly into the amp with the gain turned all the way down (rear speakers are stock, of course). The fader is all the way forward so the music plays with no rear fill, but the head unit ignores the fader for PDC so everything functions like I hoped it would. It's also nice to have the option for rear sound when someone (my kid) is in the back.
There's quite a bit to learn with a DSP and I still have a long way to go, but it's been really fun learning about all the theory and how to get just the basics set. One of the best things I have read so far is the Audiofrog tuning guide:
https://testgear.audiofrog.com/wp-co...y-it-Works.pdf
And a massive thanks to Nick Apicella for the video on how to use auto-EQ.
All that's left fabrication-wise is to carpet the trunk floor panel which I should have done next weekend. Go 49ers!
#29
saw it in person today, looks great. sounds pretty good too
#30
Yesterday I was fortunate enough to get some (a lot) of help from Nick (nadams5755) who knows a thing or two about tuning, and the sound on the car is pretty much dialed in.
We were able to drop the crossover frequency on the midbass from 80Hz down to 60Hz, and the sub now plays 45Hz and down. The bass is really up front now, and a nice bonus is that the 80Hz rattle he found in the rear deck is now gone. I'm really surprised at the performance of the Gladens and I guess Nick was a bit as well when we started to tune them: "Is the sub on? There's no way those things play flat down to 20Hz."
Turning up the amp gains would give a bit more detail, but that would require retuning so I'm going to leave it for now. At least I know how to adjust the input gain in the Helix software now... There's always something that can be done to make your system sound better, but this is far and away the best sounding system I've had.
Now about that trunk panel that isn't upholstered yet...
(We forgot to save the midbass graph, but here's a couple before and midway graphs)
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