Questions about infinite baffle subs

[Fernpatch]

Hello all, I am hoping for some knowledge on the subject of infinite baffle subs as I am considering trying IB for the first time when I rebuild my cars system next year.

it is my understanding that IB is more efficient in the sense that it takes way less power to reach a given amount of excursion compared to a sealed box setup. It is my understanding that SPL is largely a matter of cone area x stroke. am I correct so far?

what are the qualities that make a particular sub suited for IB use? I have been searching on google and I am struggling trying to sort the truth from myth.

Also i would like to point out that although I referenced SPL earlier in the post I am not looking for something that is simply loud. I am trying to figure out how to get the clearest deepest bass i can in my car.

for an idea of what kind of volume i normally listen at I am currently running a single 12 sealed on 300 watts and it is almost enough in the 40hz and up range but nowhere near what I would like in the bottom octave.

In theory I could buy a bigger amp and put more power on the sub I have now and than try and EQ out the upper end to even out the sound but 1. I would rather not buy a bigger amp unless I have no other choice and 2 I would like to get some usable trunk space back again by getting the monster box out of my trunk.

Another question, is there anything fundamentally bad about using shallow subs for IB? I understand that shallow subs tend to have way less stroke than standard type subs limiting how loud and low they can go but assuming one had enough cone area to achieve enough displacement within the limited available stroke would it work out?

Sorry for the long ramble, I am dog tired today.

[Queef]

The older models (IDMAX) sound great !
IB plays low notes with authority , if you have "excursion" !
IB subs need XMAX !
Midbass will come from your midbass , now.
The sub in your vehicle now , if put into a ported box will get louder (same amp).

[Queef]

for an idea of what kind of volume i normally listen at I am currently running a single 12 sealed on 300 watts and it is almost enough in the 40hz and up range but nowhere near what I would like in the bottom octave.

If you tune a ported enclosure to just above the fs of your 12" sub you will get more dB in the area you are lacking. Think front wave plus rear wave off sub via port.

[Theslaking]

Xmax and power overcome most things with IB. People put to much weight on qts and everything else. If you have a good amount of travel and are on the higher end of power handling the other stuff isn't a deal breaker. Now if your at the opposite end then you need to focus on numbers and practice self control with the sub level control.

IB if done right will likely sound cleaner than a box, however most don't like their sub to sound that way. It will hit 20hz easily and struggle at 80hz. For me those limitations are perfect. It's not for everyone. I'm running 3 high excursion 10's IB now.

Lastly and most importantly. You must get a good seal from the trunk area and have a very stout mouting baffle.

[Queef]

http://aespeakers.com/shop/ibau-woofers/ib15au/

JCSaudio is right.

This one will work. Go 4 ohm & Apollo upgrade

Acoustic Elegance offers 12" , 10" infinite baffle subwoofers , also.

[JCsAudio]

As queef mentioned taking your current 12” subwoofer and putting it in an ideal ported box tuned low like 30-33 Hz (or even lower depending on sub) and using a DSP to smooth out any peaks from say cabin gain will definitely give you that deep bass you’re looking for and it will do it with more authority and less distortion when compared to a sealed box. It will also require less power to hit the same spl as compared to a sealed box.

Now if you’re dead set on infinite baffle I will say the one I did hear sounded great but it was also a really big Acoustic Elegance 15” subwoofer in a really big space. I will let other members with more experience advise you on your questions about infinite baffle subs. This company makes subwoofers specifically for infinite baffle installations. http://aespeakers.com/

[Fernpatch]

If you tune a ported enclosure to just above the fs of your 12" sub you will get more dB in the area you are lacking. Think front wave plus rear wave off sub via port.

Not that I doubt what you are suggesting, my concern with a ported box stems from the ones I have heard in the past and they sounded like one note wonders. I am going to guess that happens when the box is not built or tuned correctly? If so is there a way to properly build and tune a ported box that is musical? and most importantly to my particular situation is can a ported box be correctly calculated without T/S information on the driver in question? the sub I have was purchased used and I have not been able to find any information on it via google.

Xmax and power overcome most things with IB. People put to much weight on qts and everything else. If you have a good amount of travel and are on the higher end of power handling the other stuff isn't a deal breaker. Now if your at the opposite end then you need to focus on numbers and practice self control with the sub level control.

IB if done right will likely sound cleaner than a box, however most don't like their sub to sound that way. It will hit 20hz easily and struggle at 80hz. For me those limitations are perfect. It's not for everyone. I'm running 3 high excursion 10's IB now.

Lastly and most importantly. You must get a good seal from the trunk area and have a very stout mouting baffle.

So IB rolls off harder on the high end than a sealed box? that is interesting but potentially useful. by a stout mounting baffle are you talking like 3/4 inch mdf? double layered 3/4 inch mdf?

Keep the thoughts and opinions coming. it helps the wheels keep turning as i think through what to do.

at this point I am definitely going to be changing up what I am running but I am unsure which of the following options makes sense. 1) try and build a ported box for my existing sub. 2) buy a pair of undetermined subs to try IB. 3) buy a pair of these https://www.parts-express.com/hsu-re...ofer--299-4020 and fiberglass my spare tire well into a enclosure for them.

Option 1 might get me the deep bass I am wanting but might also eat up even more of my trunk. Option 2 should get me the lows I want and give me back some trunk space but could be lacking in mid bass reinforcement. Option 3 will give me back my trunk but may or may not get me the sound I am wanting. If I end up with option 3 I can bridge the 2 channels on my amp to give the subs 300 watts each and than pull a 2 channel of the shelf and use it to run my fronts. I know that I will have to run a larger power feed to my trunk to support the extra amp and I hope that i wouldn't also have to buy a HO alternator to keep up.

I have been considering doing a battery relocate for a while now and I think that if I have to run new power cable than I will likely dump the tiny stock battery and go with a bigger unit remote mounted in the trunk like I have done with other Honda's in the past.

[Theslaking]

My baffle is 2 1/4" thick.

[Queef]

Fernpatch,

No , you need T/S parameters to build a ported box. You might just buy one from a site and put your sub in it, but that is a gamble.
https://www.hifisoundconnection.com/...caAmPZEALw_wcB

[Smitty]

What sub do you currently have?