Sexual intercorsa...

[dumdum]

Super, super clean. Plus your hand built cables are gorgeous. I have loved watching your projects come together. Keep up the good work!

wait for mine to come together, I’ve redesigned the dash sub box already and changed it somewhat in my brain

I should add the foam on top and rear of the amps is so the blue doesn’t bleed through the heat sink channels and onto the zapco, I also added a little to the rear of the amp to just support the board and keep it off the zapco by 1.5-2mm, it sits very even all the way around

[dumdum]

So the final bit of the boot (sorry... trunk) on the seat was a hard wearing, normal use cover for the subs and amps etc, mesh is some perforated steel approx 1.5-2mm thick with 3mm holes at 6mm spacings allowing for the transmission of bass and also heat from the amps

[dumdum]

Dash sub box needed 15l for the sub if possible...

ive been racking my brains on what to use to measure it, my other hobby is match fishing, for this i use a variety of sizes of fishmeal pellets, so I found which ones I’d got the most of which happened to be 4mm... and filled the topless sub box full... I reckoned i had 16l so I poured them in and measured them out, that’s 16.5l which by the time I take sub displacement out of it will be 15l I reckon which is perfect for 0.707 with the sb acoustics sub

[dumdum]

So a bit more on the sub box, now I know I have the space I can crack on and build more

i started with two braces, one each side, both with plenty of breathing space into the corners, but as I’m using 15mm birch ply for the most part it is very strong and stiff, and with no panel being bigger than a 6” span to something solid it’s immensely strong! Once I was happy with the loose fit I screwed and glued them in, properly solid now!

[dumdum]

Next up was cut a piece of 15mm for each side, the drivers side was more or less flat, just a small pull with a screw and it was touching, the passenger side I had to massage with a grinder and a flap wheel just to shape it a little more, I also cut a rebate at the small edge of each section in front of the heater duct, this then left me with two lips for attaching the centre panel to

the centre panel (only maybe 2.5-3” x 10” was cut and also rebated to mate up at each end, then I drilled and screwed it all together with plenty of foaming pu wood glue and hefty wood screws for plenty of bite, the braces did there job awesomely well and the resulting structure is very solid, even at the inside edges where it’s unsupported currently, but I have a plan for that also

[dumdum]

Fingers crossed by the time I’ve added a sealing milkshake mix, plus some lead shot also in the mix, there will be enough litres left over to get me roughly a Q of 0.6 which is approx 14litres

[dumdum]

A little more on the box build...

baffle cut and rebated so it will fit inside and over the sides of the enclosure

hole cut for the subwoofer and M5 t-nuts fitted to the rear of the baffle, still need to add a chamfer to the rear of the baffle between the t-nuts to allow better airflow

[Smitty]

This is just so insane! Keep it coming!

[dumdum]

This is just so insane! Keep it coming!

i did wonder if anyone was reading lol, I think I’m going to get the dash speaker enclosures built and playing before adding any shaping and posh trim to the enclosure, I need to work out the sub works with the front end and blends nicely (although my bass definitely sounded upfront when I tested with a hybrid audio unity 6” test enclosure)

[dumdum]

I have found one small weep with the milkshake, but it now has a baffle and also is fully sealed inside! I sat the baffle on some fibreglass filler and squished it down to the box making sure not to distort it, then let the filler go off and then added 15-20 screws round the edge doing it this way means it will now be solid but also perfectly flat, before mounting the sub in I will run an M5 tap down all the t-nuts to clean any milkshake from the threads as I did have to tip the build virtually upside down to coat all the sides