Sexual intercorsa...

[dumdum]

I feel like you'll never have front speakers

This is why I set up a fake car in my basement to play with this winter.

Curious, since you have the ability...
Have you tried that location, but angled to fire them a bit more towards the rear view mirror, or slightly more on axis than "up", or both?

I feel like you should be able to steer your image around from that spot.

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As I am playing a 12cm driver below major beaming at 2.2khz the driver is omnidirectional pretty much below 30 degrees and playing off the screen, so angle makes very little difference to the response at the listening position, it will change the drivers distance to the screen and the comb filters, but again these will be way above where it’s playing anyway

i don’t know what you mean by steer the image? I want the stage as deep as I can get with as much width as I can get… so realistically the drivers are as wide as possible with as much depth as possible in the current enclosures, you won’t make the image any wider, and making it narrower would defeat the object

but steering the image seems a little odd to me…

I hate to say this but unless you have a full car in your basement all bets are off as standing waves and reflections don’t just come from what you have there, so your effort will not reflect on what happens in a car… for example I found the limitations of the car and where drivers could play from and too from measurements of freq response in the car with drivers in various places

locations are decide by doing these measurements, as are crossovers, you can’t hear what will happen in a car from your rig… only what happens in your rig, once you add a bulkhead and panels from doors back you will have to learn the car again unfortunately

[geolemon]

I was just playing with feasibility.
I need to make a final driver selection, and also do some experiments with in-Car omnidirectionals, 3D printed some mirage-style reflectors... Set up a near-field line-array on each side (primary pathlengths distance/time aligned), and a few other experiments to see what has potential.

The basement has a drop ceiling, and also I have several Styrofoam slabs, and totes I was using to approximate an interior.

It looked a little funny with 15 drop ceiling tiles stacked all around like a kids fort, and a white fax-fur rug draped over a bunch of stuff on the floor to make a console and things.
You can't really see in the pic but there's curved windows there, and the PVC and ugly aluminum tape approximate A pillars.

So mainly that's exactly what I was experimenting with - ways to send my image around, trying to find the best alignments to try in-car. I even tried those dash locations firing up, even though my real factory dash doesn't have them (though Erin H has the same car and added them!).

Have you thought about trying some Mirage-style reflectors? It's pretty wild what you can do...

Once you do start playing with them, angle really does become important because you are actively blocking and/or reflecting sound.

I also had some tweeters too far back up high in a civic door 20 years ago, and made small plexi shields, that intentionally blocked the near side, but the far side pretty much had full strength direct pathlength. That really equalized them and fixed the imaging in that car.

Even those domes in the alignment in that photo - great where they are, but angling them on-axis even slightly more made too much near-side presence.

And, I'm keeping in mind something I stumbled on here -
The panels holding those four Bohlender Graebner Neo3S magnetic planar tweeters - I'm just mocking this up so this wasn't intentional, but - see there's a gap behind it?
It seems to act as a waveguide.
I seriously have like 2 extra inches of stage width that I can make disappear if I stuff a rag in that hole.

Lots of ways to play with where the image and image boundaries land. I love it.

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[geolemon]

Here's a couple pics of the Mirage satellites.
They are designed to be placed near or even hang on a wall - normally a sin in home audio.

They insist that the omni reflector combined with the 15 degree angle of the speaker is the magic formula. It's about controlling direct vs reflected sound energy.

A windshield isn't a wall - but it kind of is - in all the important ways.

If 15 degrees is an important angle for imaging in omni with a vertical wall...
Just makes you think.

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[dumdum]

In other news I potentially still need to be building for skilled 4k in Emma as the 2019 euros seem to now be put to April 2022… if that is the case I will be swapping to a dsp.3 once more and getting a few cheaper components and dropping my spend back down somewhat…

I also have some Sb acoustics mids in the post from Holland, the exact same chassis as the 12cm ceramics but a lighter paper cone in an effort to improve the upper midrange, not sure what it will do to the low end (150-200hz) as yet… but time will tell, and I also have some sb26stac tweeters on the way which are often revelled about in the home audio diy lands, it’s a big 100mm face plate, but I think I can accommodate it in the build so all is good fingers crossed

[dumdum]

Mids arrived, rca making cable has arrived… and I’ve attempted a remake on the silver series…

I also have some new van damme cable, the cat likes the taste, and it’s a bit stiff! I am not sure I’m going to leave the plastic outer on, it feels like it’s steel reinforced kinda plastic coating… I am likely gonna strip it and apply heatshrink over it instead to lighten its load and let it bend more…

[dumdum]

New lighter cone’d midrange (straight swap for the ceramics with the same basket/motor) are here and will be run in and tuned this next weekend once I’ve ran them in for a week or so

and I’ve also been playing with finishing the rcas, so far tesa tape and orange techflex is winning with very slim friction (none locking) rean plugs that I modify to take the silver series van damme cable

[geolemon]

Mids arrived, rca making cable has arrived… and I’ve attempted a remake on the silver series…

I LOVE the way those silver ones look.
I need to make a bunch of short ones for inside my soon-to-be, and tiny, amp rack.

I don't suppose you would message me where you got that hot looking combo of cable and plugs?

I'm shopping but not finding anything nearly that good looking.

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[dumdum]

The plugs are rean and about a dollar a piece… but not designed for cable this big, I open up the rear of the barrel to suit

making the cables is a pain, because the strain relief is for 6-7mm cable and this is 8.5mm I actually strip the outer sheath, and then clamp over the outer braid and onto the large diameter foamed pvc part, then using a very hot iron i solder the braid to the crimped part, it does slightly melt the foamed part, but another quick crimp and it makes it neat enough

the trick is to cut the outer to the perfect length so it just nudges inside the barrel a fraction and the edge is not seen, I do have some shrink tube that just fits over the barrels so I may add some, but I think they look cool naked, you just have to be careful installing them so you don’t roll back the outer sheath, otherwise the gap looks a bit shonky

they are in a rack and will be securely fitted, clamped in, so I don’t see the panic with not clamping the outer with the strain relief

the cable is van damme silver series, it’s £6.50 a metre, so my 8 1.35m leads are £78 in cable and £15 in plugs, and it is some of the nicest cable I’ve used and the only one that’s had a marked difference in tonality, it has low capacitance and low resistance for to the size of the conductors and silver plating, it has to be big to keep the capacitance down, the bigger the centre conductor the bigger the distance to the shield for a given capacitance

if you want some let me know and I’ll source it in the U.K. and post it, there are four off cuts to be visiting a guy in the USA shortly cos I’m nice like that, I don’t think Shannon is on here though, so I will post back his thoughts on the cable as I know he try’s loads

[dumdum]

So I have a whine… yesterday I tracked it down to when the sidelights are on, once I pressed the brakes it went… so I’m thinking a bad earth at the back lights…

so I tested the back lights. The noise didn’t change with an extra earth into the light circuit…

unplug the back lights and the noise goes…

so earthing didn't change the noise, so I start wondering if the signal route passing the wiring loom in the quarter… so I unplug all the rcas from the dsp to zapco 150.6ap, oddly no change in the noise… stripped the hu out and unplugged rcas… no change, I unplugged the can interface for steering wheel controls, no change…

so nothing connected to the zapco except power and speaker cables, so I disconnected the speaker cables, obviously the noise stopped, but then I connected a spare tweeter to the amps outputs in the boot, silence! Connect the front tweeter wires back up, connect the tweeter wire up at the front… noise… the speaker wires run down the sill, I can only think it’s some hi frequency signal that’s used for the bulb check system present on wires in parallel with the speaker cables, so after stripping half the car and fitting my fresh belden 1694a/rean rca leads I have sound back, and at least with days getting longer I don’t need sidelights much currently

my plan is to make up new speaker leads front to rear and run them up the centre console maybe… I’m getting a dab hand at soldering xt60 connectors and making the rean rca plugs fit any cable I need them too… ya gotta love a bit of clean techflexing to start the day! I even labelled each end with amp input number and dsp output letter and heatshrinked over the labels with clear heatshrink

[nadams5755]

my buddy has a 2019 c63 with noise radiated into his tweeter speaker wires from a wire bundle near the kick panel. twisting the speaker wires greatly reduced it. moving the wires a few inches a way fixed it 100%