Sexual intercorsa...

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Cables are made... labelled with both ends being differently labelled... dsp end has letters to denote channel on the dsp, other end is numbered for zapco channel number... both ends contain designation... ltw, rtw, lm, rm, lmb, rmb, sub is orange currently but will be silver ones right angle adaptors arrive and the signal cabling will be complete the 3D printed cable holder for the amp end is a work in progress and will be developed but as an exercise it worked a treat and held cables to the rca inputs both secure and straight!

if anyone wants the stl for 8.5mm cables drop me a pm... very simple to make and a 5hr print 3D printers are awesome albeit a bit slow... it’s done in petg for heat resistance

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A few pics from yesterday’s session on the boot

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A bit of trim fell on some parts today! And the side parts got painted black... they will likely get trimmed in the end, I also need to 3D print a ‘rake’ to keep the rca cables straight from the dsp, I will also swap the orange rcas for van damme silver series as well

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So a bit Heath Robinson and don’t try this at home kids!

I have a rebate cutter... it will cut 1/2”... I needed more and using the router on the cut side as I’ve done previously was out due to the section of already attached to the boot rubber edge...

the biggest cutter I have is a 1.5” round bearing guided cutter... so I used it bottom up so I could cut a rebate 1.5” into the ply.... very god damn carefully!

basically 1.5mm at a time to cut 4mm down... it wasn’t as clean as the proper bearing cutter and also because the bottom face of the cutter was in contact with the wood it got hot to the level of burning the ply as you can see so I took it outside on an extension lead and clamped the router bin to a wall

it was surprisingly well mannered and didn’t grab, presumably because of the small steps I cut and my hands bring blue from gripping it so tight

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First top layer piece trimmed and edge lit... grey and white looks good to my eyes! I also have red and blue strips of led lighting which are denser than usual so it lessens the ‘dot every 15mm’ effect you can sometimes get, rubbing the inside down with 400 grit also helps create an opaque finish to the plexi (or in my case polycarbonate cos I’m bulletproof now... )

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A conductor found its way into my hands... I figured a nice place to put it was under the handbrake tip... it works... however it would work better if it had full visibility of the left side of the leds oops... new location will now be made further up... although I’m not 100% I like it better than the simplicity of the urc.3... time will tell...

and the 3D printer has been going since 8am and is 11.5hrs into a fuse holder for two mega fuses and a midi fuse for the sub amp as it’s only a baby at 100a 😂

although looking at it I’ve just realised I wanted two midi fuses but I can always take a inline fuse holder off for the small accessory fuse block... I could kick myself right now! It’s only about £4 in filament and time

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Well this part worked out really well... custom three fuse holder and earth distribution also printed in petg so even in summer it stands a chance of staying this shape

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Copper bars drilled and tapped for the lonely M4 retaining set screw

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Some more filler and trim on the lower section... now I can fill and extend the sides to meet the rubber and the edges as marked up...

added the edge lighting to the lower section after getting it trimmed and put xt30 connectors on the car, top and lower panel... the power goes from the car, through the zapco panel and then out of the zapco panel into the lower panel, the dinky little connectors work very well for it, I p-clipped the cable on the lower panel so it points up and won’t be seen past the subs

I also knocked up new coax cable, 2 rcas and will run fresh cables from the rear forwards and re route the speaker cables as well

[Stycker]

Wow! Looks awesome. Keep it coming.