Which topping, d10? Run some coax instead of optical? Even then you’ll be limited to 192k/32b on the dsp/input side.
high res compatibility is such a mess of competing standards and compatibility, I don’t bother with it anymore.
Which topping, d10? Run some coax instead of optical? Even then you’ll be limited to 192k/32b on the dsp/input side.
high res compatibility is such a mess of competing standards and compatibility, I don’t bother with it anymore.
I did run coax from my D10 when I had my ultra in... but I’ve swapped to a dsp.3 for budget reasons in competition so I don’t have the option to run coax as it only has an optical input for me to use
and as for hi-res, it’s purely whatever albums I play in tidal that dictates that, if an album is available in both I will have hi res, but cd quality flac is fine and I can’t say I notice a difference either way, I can’t hear past 16-17k anyway so I doubt it will make any odds to me ever as I’m not getting any younger lol
can you disable master quality in tidal and use whatever premium/lossless tier they have?
I dont really see what I’d want to as it’s only 96k sample rate maximum for everything I’ve checked in my collection, which is able to be transferred by optical natively, plus 90% of my downloaded library are only ever hifi (flac 44.1k files)
but yes you can choose to do that if you wish in settings for streaming and downloads, however lossless (hifi) and master quality are both part of the upper tier service
A few development pics... I have solved my 100hz dip and it couldn’t have gone better! I started thinking about what cars have excellent midbass in the 60-150hz region and bmw sprang to mind...
so it was a chunk out of the seat frame rail and build some test enclosures for some hybrid audio u69s
initoally these were tested from a gz uranium 2.250...
once I know they are correct I shall get solid 10mm steel baffles made and weld ‘enclosures’ up from 2mm plate and keep the IB goodness!
So after a quick test something was off! The chassis rail under the car was a bit restrictive...
the first smaart measurement shows a lovely resonant peak around 160hz, I know why, it was a small matter of chance if the chassis rail was big enough to let a 6x9 breathe effectively... it wasn’t and I had a lovely resonance issue
an extra 76mm hole in the floor was just enough to get rid of the resonance I applied some paint around the fresh steel cut hole, and then cut a couple of aluminium rings that were approx 116mm o/d and 76mm id, then I cut some fresh pieces of moisture guard I’ve had for over 10 yrs... that’s fate!
the extra breathing space dropped the peak and got the response something like both sides, due to the peaks I was able to put crossovers in at above the low pass I required and below the high pass, so I ended up 75/83hz and 165/175 L/R, I am also running the midbass in mono but eq’d separately, this gives an effective crossover of 70hz and 200hz for both drivers give or take
So with the midbass issues solved I was able to make a good measurement of all the drivers phases (tweeters I do differently, but phase traces on smaart enable you to set time alignment very accurately! I found better phase alignment by switching the phase on both midbass and adding delay to the mids and tweeters which found the sweet spot (you’d never get to this level of summation with an rta and a tape measure)
I ended up taking a phase trace of the entire right side (I think) and it ended up looking fairly decent with a good match to the other side... this then gives 6db of summation when you add in the other side!
in other news I also added in the zapco z150.6ap, I had to move the dsp.3 to hover over the ground zero and swap in my diy fuse block
the stage is far more 3D and very defined now, separation is very good now, far better with the same EQ as with the previous ground zero 4.150sqx, subtle differences but definite improvements in depth, space around instruments, width is determined by speaker locations and height is to a certain degree driver placement dependant so they remain unchanged to a greater degree...
I also had issues with my director and have returned it back for a warranty claim (the rotary encoder basically develops play and begins jumping in big steps, and at the end before I could take no more it would jump 3-10 steps in one click, so for now I have a urc.3 fitted which is actually pretty cool, I like it, but will be having the director back to enable accurate volume setting for Emma judging
Last edited by dumdum; 05-17-2020 at 11:10 AM.
Holy shit. Either you are nucking Futs or really dedicated to your car audio. Or both . It's hard to believe you were having issues with midbass given what is mounted on your dash...
Ge0
Scanspeak - Dynaudio - Helix - Bose