Sexual intercorsa...

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For anyone considering something similar, those strips would be quite a bit more effective with a flange. If you had the equipment (sheet metal brake) you would want to put a flange on each side, 1/2" if you had the room, and then use a metal shrinker to put an arc in them to match the roof line. I realize that's about $500 more in equipment (using Harbor Freight level tools, $2000 otherwise) than most people have in their shop though. And of course my next suggestion would be to weld the ends of the strips to the unibody stringers and now you're into ridiculous overkill ha ha. In my case I have the equipment but I think I would be perfectly happy with slapping some CLD on the roof and then stuffing as much melamine foam or equivalent between the headliner and the roof. But I definitely admire your dedication, and am interested if you notice a strong subjective improvement in roof flex. A lot of people don't make the effort to drop the headliner, but IME its definitely worth it, as you can see the roof is more unsupported than a door and while there is not much road noise coming through the roof, there is a ton of potential vibration even when you are sitting still. And noise absorbers on top of that really deaden the car. If you think about it the headliner is probably the single biggest area that you can put a noise absorber. A little pile of rock wool in the pillars and nooks of the vehicle seems almost pointless to me in comparison.

I would be doing that very thing in the doors, but I have 15mm aluminium angle for the doors to be bonded in which would be far more effective than this (I don’t have anything in the doors so I’ve not bothered treating them as yet) however i figures if I layered this up to make it approx 6mm thick and then deaden it also it would make it incredibly stiff (I don’t have that much room, maybe 10mm in the centre as the roof lining sits on the cross beams) Then I will deaden it and layer it with closed cell foam also to effectively fill the narrowest gap and make the lining solid for more of it’s span

I have left several gaps so I can effectively stagger the plates over each other and give more stiffness (where it overlaps) for a little less weight

my mate actually used aluminium tubes lengthways and literally made his roof panel approx 20mm of hollow aluminium box section and bonded it all together then deadened it all over, it’s immensely strong and stiff!

i am also going to use pu sealant between the existing spars and the roof skin as the foamy type filler they use is not so good after many years of heat on the roof as cones away quite easily

I was running out of pu sealant, the tubes I’m using up had set to varying degrees from 1/2” below the plunger to one that was approx 1/2 set, I just cut open the first tube I used and removed the metal plunger and cut the rest down, it was most messy and far from ideal, but waste not want not (the date on the tubes was circa 2013 I think when I built my campervan

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12 more tubes of pu sealant (non will be set this time for sure!) ordered, I will layer up the rest of the boards and then deaden it once the sealant arrives

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First off I made a router table with vacuum extraction... yup it’s a waste bin with a vacuum cleaner sized hole in the side and a 12mm birch ply top that the router mounts to

works a treat and I have cut a surround for the sub and put a round on the top inside and out, plus I made some rings for my satoris to mount into when I make the enclosures each side of the sub box

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I have also moved the tweeters out into the cabin, and then adjusted the aim from a start point aimed at the centre at a point just behind the front headrests, moving them out by approx 10-15 degrees moved the passenger side of the stage outwards by moving the reflections from the screen, passenger side window and drivers side window also, subtle differences make massive differences (the stage was 5-6” inside the pillar until I straightened the tweeter up a little, it now aims at the top,centre of the headrest pretty much, the difference is markedly better!)

pics have original start location just off the tubs vs position now, I suspect they will also come a little higher as the stage loses a touch of height as it goes hard right 👍🏼

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I have also made more mess and applied more stainless to the roof 😊 now once it’s gone off in a few days I can shave the excess lumps off with a stanly knife blade and deaden over the lot, then a layer of closed cell foam and the roof lining shall be back in

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Did you take measurements before you did the roof as I’d be interested in a before/after measurement? Definitely crazy work.

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Did you take measurements before you did the roof as I’d be interested in a before/after measurement? Definitely crazy work.

I think it will mainly make a difference to the subs response and I have a before taken a while back to compare with, the front sub doesn’t really dig low with enough gusto for me, but it will provide enough levels of 30hz for the Emma sq competition cd bass track, and hopefully when I introduce mr front sub to mr boot sub the blend will give the feeling I crave... I had also considered bass shakers to gove the sensation of 30hz to the front seats

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So a bit more progress, I’ve whipped the dash out and added some structure and shape to it...

2l of fibreglass filler and some pieces of 18 and 12mm mdf, it’s certainly made it a whole lot deader... the top of the enclosure is 25-35mm thick for most of its top surface now, I also added some recycled denim under the sub as I wondered if the connector on the sub was rattling on the lower surface, it does sound a bit tighter and more defined for its extra reinforcement, this will also stiffen the bottom due to the braces tying it all together

i then put a layer of filler over the fibreglass to see how the rough shape looked in black fitted back in the car (it also reduced reflections from the white wood in the windscreen!

I also added a layer of deadener to the front section of the roof, Jesus it’s dead now!! And stiff as a stiff thing coming first in a being stiff competition!!

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It’s starting to look like a vague dashboard shape! Plus a nice pic of the roof with a single layer of deadener on it...

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Finished the deadener, did the back half, then applied some closed cell foam where the roof liner would touch the deadener, and got the roof lining and plastics back in and fitted it all back together, i was gonna take some after measurements but left my headrest mic holder at home, that’s tomorrow’s job

Its a bit dead and stiff!