Kenwood KAC 7204 AMP

[Smitty]

I cannot tell you what to do. I'd be willing to bet my tastes are different than yours. When I do ported boxes, I tune them lower. Currently, everything I do is sealed. However, I did take some time to model some subwoofers I'm familiar with using your box specifications. The Rockford Fosgate did not look as good to me but it would work. Its peak response was at a higher frequency than the others; however, the subs I compared were more expensive.

For a little more than the Punch you can get the Image Dynamics ID10 V.4 D4
The other two were the Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44 and the JL Audio 10W1v3-2 all three of these model fairly well in your box with the Image Dynamics appearing to be a decent bang for the buck choice. I have not heard that model but I have listened to the IDQ model; however, the IDQ doesn't play well in your box.

Regarding safe, yes. Speakers do not pull wattage. The amp gives what you tell it to. The speaker rating is just what it can handle. Unless you plan to just set volume to full when the key is on, you wont even run the 500 watts continuously.

Maybe someone else may know about a budget gem they recommend. I recommend one of the three I linked above.

[Packers27]

The ID10 would put me over my rms rating. I'd like to mention that a fella told me that the only reason why you want a ported box is when your sub requires more cubic space than what your box is. Whats your thoughts on that?

[SublimeZ]

The ID10 would put me over my rms rating.

Sub rms ratings are what the manufacturer says they can safely handle. Until you learn (a lot) more, you want to meet or exceed that rating.

I'd like to mention that a fella told me that the only reason why you want a ported box is when your sub requires more cubic space than what your box is. Whats your thoughts on that?

That fella is clueless.

Smitty took the time to research and model several subs that will work well in your enclosure. A smart fella would listen to and thank him

[Packers27]

Sublime, no one in here has said that I didnt appreciate what Smitty has told me. I'm in here for one reason. That is to learn. I thank everyone who has answered my questions but I dont leave any guesswork out of the equation. I'm going with what Smitty said and I'm gonna look more into the first one he told me about. I'm gonna ask questions so dont worry about that

[Packers27]

Going with the ID10. Now, would 4 gauge wire from the battery to the amp be sufficient for this install or should I go heavier, in case I decide to do something more bass heavy in the future ?

[Smitty]

The ID10 would put me over my rms rating.

SublimeZ is correct. You can run a 5,000 watt sub on that amp all day long with no problems. Just don't run a speaker rated for less than your amp until you have some experience and knowledge about doing so.

I'd like to mention that a fella told me that the only reason why you want a ported box is when your sub requires more cubic space than what your box is. Whats your thoughts on that?

Once again, SublimeZ is correct. He just said it much nicer than I was going to. That guy has no business giving any advice.

Sublime, no one in here has said that I didnt appreciate what Smitty has told me. I'm in here for one reason. That is to learn. I thank everyone who has answered my questions but I dont leave any guesswork out of the equation. I'm going with what Smitty said and I'm gonna look more into the first one he told me about. I'm gonna ask questions so dont worry about that

Thank you. I could tell you are learning and I would rather see someone ask questions and learn instead of doing the stuff we see on YouTube. Based on what you have stated so far, I think you'll be happy with the Image Dynamics sub.

Going with the ID10. Now, would 4 gauge wire from the battery to the amp be sufficient for this install or should I go heavier, in case I decide to do something more bass heavy in the future ?

This will require more information. What other amps do you have for your system? If you are just using this Kenwood amp and adding it to the factory system, you can just run it on 8 awg cable if you use high quality copper. If you are new to this, be careful and read up on copper clad aluminum (CCA) vs copper wire or trust my recommendation to use copper. This KnuKonceptz 8 gauge amplifier kit will power your amp. After you get the subs installed I would imagine you will want to amplify and upgrade your mids and highs sooner rather than later. In that case, a 4 gauge setup would be the best place to start since it allows you to easily add a four channel amp. If you get to the point where you need bigger, you are also looking at charging system upgrades and other modifications to meet the power requirements. I personally don't buy amp wiring kits. I piece together the items I want for my specific build. Measure for what you need and purchase just that. I recommend the Kolossus Fleks Kable or the Kolossus Kandy Kable. Any quality 4 gauge all copper cable will work fine, even welding cable if you know what to look for. I recommend the KnuKonceptz simply because they usually are one of the better priced quality retailers.

[Queef]

If you can afford bigger wire, get it you may need it. Venting/porting a sub makes use of sound wave coming off rear of cone/diaphragm over the tuning frequency of box. Think additional dB`s , a lil more sound pressure level, more visceral impact.when my boys were wee-uns, I would put a few styrofoam peanuts in the port while sub was hittin and they would watch as they went in-an-out. For their part , when I wasn`t watching they put their hot wheels in the port . The air is moving like a weight on a spring . Boing. . . Boing

[SublimeZ]

Sublime, no one in here has said that I didnt appreciate what Smitty has told me. I'm in here for one reason. That is to learn. I thank everyone who has answered my questions but I dont leave any guesswork out of the equation. I'm going with what Smitty said and I'm gonna look more into the first one he told me about. I'm gonna ask questions so dont worry about that

My reply wasn't intended as a slam, or to dissuade your questions. Modeling subs isn't terribly difficult, but it does take inputing a slew of numbers that you have to search for. Just wanted you to understand it was more than looking at a couple of links.

I get my wire here https://www.wireandsupply.com/category_s/63.htm
For fuse holders, distro blocks, or rcas, https://www.amazon.com/s?i=merchant-...A3J1PF183V710G

Again, your questions are welcome, but if you're serious about learning http://www.bcae1.com/ is a great resource. There is a lot of bad info online and on the street. bcae is a place you can trust.

[Grinder]

More on wiring two or more drivers in series vs parallel:

.... "It is far less desirable to make subwoofer to subwoofer connections in series. Due to slight and unavoidable differences between speakers and the high likelihood of uneven loading between different speakers in a car, there will be slight differences in the mechanical behavior of the two speakers in series. These differences in movement result in the creation of induced voltage (called back EMF) by the speakers across the series connection. This effect causes a problem when two speakers that behave differently are connected in series because the speakers can modulate each other (cause each other to move), resulting in distortion. The problem becomes more serious as more speakers are connected in series." ....
https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us...iring-Tutorial

OP, here is an excellent resource for getting up to speed in virtually every aspect of DIY car audio: http://www.bcae1.com/

[Smitty]

I get my wire here https://www.wireandsupply.com/category_s/63.htm
For fuse holders, distro blocks, or rcas, search darvex on ebay

Thank you for the link. The best cable prices I have seen yet. I did check ebay for darvex and did not get expected results.

I will second bcae1.com. Great site.