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Thread: Sound deadening

  1. Back To Top    #11
    Noob JCsAudio's Avatar
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    Re: Sound deadening

    Quote Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
    Just curious how most people handle this, in order to allow for internal door access if/when needed.
    I used the butyl rope trick on my truck and cut the ABS plastic to fit snugly between the inside and outside parts of the hole while sealing with the butyl rope. Another product available called Nutsert Threaded Inserts (rivet nuts) can be used to make the ABS, PVC, or whatever you chose to cover the hole removable like an access panel. https://www.edfast-online.com/Thread...ts-s/24991.htm
    Mazda CX5 AF GB10, AF GB25, AF GB60, JL VX800/8i, AF GB12 sealed, Mmats M1400.1

    Ford F150
    AF GB10, AF GB25, JLC5, JL twk88/Pioneer D8604, Mosconi Pico, JBL Club 5501, Sundown SD3-10 ported @ 30 Hz

    Sienna
    AF GB15, Audiofrog GS690, JL twk88/Pioneer D9500F, JBL GTX500, Alpine SWS10 ported @ 31 Hz

    https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threa.../#post-5608901






  2. Back To Top    #12

    Re: Sound deadening

    Quote Originally Posted by Hemoglobin View Post
    Kinda hard to follow up straight from the horse's mouth, but I'll throw out my recent build. I had my 4runner done from the floor up. Entire vehicle gutted, 100% coverage of the metal. I have no desire to touch the verticals of the truck again. It's done. It does help, but if you think you are going to make a common car a Bentley, no, but on to the parts that count. I did extra layers on the front doors. The only thing I will advise is, if you think you are going to get frisky, and really try to do the best you can do from the audio aspect, do bracing. I did not. I had the doors sealed, but did nothing for rigidity. Well, I'm lucky enough I can get 1/4" 4x8 sheets of HDPE or ABS, through a former job, for what most people buy 2x4 sheets. That said, I'm still taking everything apart and adding bracing now. If you can change your oil, you can brace the doors. I would just do it and save time later. Also, I'm buying the above mentioned resonix squares for the door cards as, at least in my situation, they more than warrant the expense. It's insane how much the cabin side of the door vibrates. This weekends project is actually you ditch the factory plastic grills and press out some metal grills with a little less restriction! Good luck and love the truck!
    Thanks hemo!

    Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk

  3. Back To Top    #13

    Re: Sound deadening

    Quote Originally Posted by Hemoglobin View Post
    Kinda hard to follow up straight from the horse's mouth, but I'll throw out my recent build. I had my 4runner done from the floor up. Entire vehicle gutted, 100% coverage of the metal. I have no desire to touch the verticals of the truck again. It's done. It does help, but if you think you are going to make a common car a Bentley, no, but on to the parts that count. I did extra layers on the front doors. The only thing I will advise is, if you think you are going to get frisky, and really try to do the best you can do from the audio aspect, do bracing. I did not. I had the doors sealed, but did nothing for rigidity. Well, I'm lucky enough I can get 1/4" 4x8 sheets of HDPE or ABS, through a former job, for what most people buy 2x4 sheets. That said, I'm still taking everything apart and adding bracing now. If you can change your oil, you can brace the doors. I would just do it and save time later. Also, I'm buying the above mentioned resonix squares for the door cards as, at least in my situation, they more than warrant the expense. It's insane how much the cabin side of the door vibrates. This weekends project is actually you ditch the factory plastic grills and press out some metal grills with a little less restriction! Good luck and love the truck!
    How did you add rigidity to the doors?

    Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk

  4. Back To Top    #14
    Noob LBaudio's Avatar
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    Re: Sound deadening

    I ususally fab Fibreglass plugs, attach them to the doors and put a layer of damping mats over




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  5. Back To Top    #15
    Senior Member jrwalte's Avatar
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    Re: Sound deadening

    From the pro competitors I spoke with at a MECA SQ event, for rigidity and deadening of large panels, such as roof and outer door skin, they use Vibraflex instead of CLD. I'm installing it on my roof right now. My door skins already has CLD so won't try the Vibraflex on it. Doing some more work on my door card with Resonix CLD tiles and Foam Decoupler trying to get rid of some rattles I get. I'm also stuffing the cavity between outer skin and inner skin (leaving room for window) with insulation to help absorb/break up the back wave. Originally I was going to have to wrap in plastic my own insulation but recently started a meal service delivery and in their boxes they use 1" thick insulation wrapped in plastic. Perfect for this application.

  6. Back To Top    #16

    Re: Sound deadening

    Quote Originally Posted by LBaudio View Post
    I ususally fab Fibreglass plugs, attach them to the doors and put a layer of damping mats over
    So how do you attach the fiberglass plugs? Are they easily removable if you need access to replace a window regulator or something like that?

    I'd like to figure out how to do something like this... I don't have any experience with cutting material for this type of stuff - nor do I have proper tools to cut it. I just have basic saws (circular saw, jigsaw, etc). No routers or anything like that.

    Those fasteners linked to above look like a great way to attach whatever material I do use.

    It's just almost impossible to remove this stuff cleanly, so I'd rather deaden my doors the "right" way when I do it, so I never have to worry about trying to remove and or "patch" the stuff if I ever need to replace a regulator or something.

  7. Back To Top    #17
    Noob LBaudio's Avatar
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    Re: Sound deadening

    I glue them with double sided tape, so it is possible to remove them if needed. Then I put a layer of damping mats over the whole inner/outer door metal. If you need to remove just cut damping plate on the edge of fibreglass plug and remove the plug
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  8. Back To Top    #18
    DIYMA Janitor SkizeR's Avatar
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    Re: Sound deadening

    Just a heads up with vinyl based deadener.. if you live in a climate that fluctuates a lot, your gunna have a bad time and will be cleaning it out of the bottom of your doors in a year or two. It falls apart as it heats and cools, which is unfortunate because it can be useful in some cases.

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  9. Back To Top    #19
    BURNED OUT Hillbilly SQ's Avatar
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    Re: Sound deadening

    How can you tell if a deadener is vinyl based?
    They might say "don't try this at home" but nothing about not trying it at your friend's house.

  10. Back To Top    #20
    Noob Notloudenuf's Avatar
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    Re: Sound deadening

    Quote Originally Posted by jrwalte View Post
    ....Originally I was going to have to wrap in plastic my own insulation but recently started a meal service delivery and in their boxes they use 1" thick insulation wrapped in plastic. Perfect for this application.
    Do you have a picture of this product? That sounds interesting.
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    2002 330Ci & 2020 Tacoma

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