Helix DSP.3 help thread

[Queef]

Ok, for what it's worth, I was *finally* able to see a very small, very quick glimpse of the blue background in the "Channel Gain & Output Level" field on one of my channels. :-) Apparently, you don't see the blue background until you get up to at least -25dB (or somewhere near that). So that is why I wasn't seeing the colored backgrounds - the signal was just never high enough. I was able to see it by boosting the optical input in the IO screen (just for testing). At least now I know it's working. :-)

Turn it all.the way up !
Radio Shack Fiber Optic Signal Amplifier (15-1588) Toslink connectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GPL6OI..._gf-6DbRHPFX0F

[jtrosky]

Turn it all.the way up !
Radio Shack Fiber Optic Signal Amplifier (15-1588) Toslink connectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GPL6OI..._gf-6DbRHPFX0F

Don't need anything "extra" to boost my optical digital signal - I can boost it up to 10dB on the input side of the Helix alone... I wouldn't boost it anywhere near that much - probably between 3dB and 6dB, if at all. Just curious how much more I can reduce the "noise floor" noise by boosting the digital signal and lowering the amp gains. Certainly not needed, but just an "I'm curious" and "why not" type of thing... Like I mentioned earlier, it just seems to me that I'd want to keep the amp gains as low as I can (while still getting full power out of the amp), in order to keep the "noise floor" noise as low as possible.

Do optical digital signals "degrade" or lower in level at all due to cable lengths? I'm assuming not (at least in any significant way), but I'm new to this digital stuff... I bought the AmpPro4 from someone that couldn't use it (didn't have a stock "premium" system) and it even came with an optical cable that was pretty long (probably ~5ft. longer than I really needed - I'm guessing it was between 15ft and 20ft - didn't measure it though) - just curious if that may have anything to do with the low signal level or not.

[jtrosky]

Damn - I sure do wish all recordings were done as well as 'The Wall" by Pink Floyd. That album sounds freaking amazing... :-) It just has the perfect "balance". I've noticed that Time Life compilation recordings are also very well done (remastered or something, I guess?) and believe it or not, I also love some of the Black Sabbath recordings - again, just the right balance... Into The Void from "The Best of Black Sabbath" has been a go-to lately. :-)

It's hard to pinpoint exactly what is different with Helix and the DSR-1 that I replaced, but the system just sounds so much more "dynamic". The system just down right sounds better with the Helix.

I wasn't really a fan of the Helix FX options when I tried them briefly - for the "Front Processing", the StageXpander just seems to mess up the staging and the "ClarityXpander just makes things overly bright. Haven't really tried the Augmented Bass Processing yet.

Does anyone else find any of the Helix "FX" options beneficial?

[Queef]

You will find that 'bass boost' or augmented bass at "low" volumes is a good idea.
Any thing added to the sound when turned up , how should I say: fucks it up !

[jtrosky]

You will find that 'bass boost' or augmented bass at "low" volumes is a good idea.
Any thing added to the sound when turned up , how should I say: fucks it up !

Well, supposedly, the Augmented Bass Processing (the "Dynamic Bass Enhancement" part) actually only works at lower volumes. My understanding is that it boosts the bass at lower volumes, but not at higher volumes - so as you turn the volume up, the bass bost applied actually decreases - and eventually won't boost at all at higher volumes. So it sounds like it might be a good thing to enable. You can specify the boost frequency (or set to "Auto") and can specify the gain amount (0dB - 9dB). Not sure if it actually does anything if enabled, but set to 0dB? Anyway, I'll have to try this feature out - sounds like it's a good idea in theory since it mainly does it's thing at lower volumes.

Not sure exactly what "SubXpander" does - says "Adds subharmonic tones to the fundamental bass for an ultra-deep bass experience". :-) No adjustments for this setting - just on or off.

I only have an under-seat sub (8"), so anything I can do to help the bass, I'm all for it...

[Queef]

Unerseat is better than nothing. Room for a 2nd ?
Twice or 3 dB more is best you might get (easy).

Get a Sub amp use thinmount subs build own enclosures ( fiberglass), put under seats.

[jtrosky]

The *level* of bass I get from the under-seat sub isn't the issue (it's actually capable of more volume level that I need) - it's just that it doesn't go as low as a real sub. Really, it's only good for down to 35hz - and even that requires a significant boost.

But yes, as you say, it's better than nothing - and honestly, for my goals, it's actually sufficient. I'm not looking for window-shaking bass - just *accurate* lows. It matches my 75W RMS x 6 amp really well in terms of output levels. It's a JBL BassPro SL.

I could put another one under the drivers seat if I really wanted to, but not sure it's beneficial in my case since I have enough volume from the one I have. Adding another won't make them play any lower.

[Queef]

Yup , after you stuff that tiny box it will play as low as it is going to , and with even two of em @ 250 watts , you might get a hair on leg to tickle you.

[jtrosky]

I will say - for what it is, that under-seat subwoofer is pretty impressive. After all, it's less than 3" in height. :-) It's 125W RMS sounds like a lot more than it really is since it's literally right next to you (or right under you if installed under the drivers seat) - as opposed to a full sub box that is in the trunk with the rear seats between it and you. The under-seat sub is actually more than enough volume wise - I have to keep it's level down in order to match the output from my door, dash and rear-deck speakers running at full-tilt.

My 6x9 door and 3.5" dash speakers require the exact same amp gain levels to keep them at the correct volume level - they came as a component set that can be run using an included passive crossover or in an active setup, so I guess they design them so that they require the same output levels from the amp so they can also be run on a single channel with the passive crossover. At least I guess that is how that works? Whatever the reason, they do require the same amp gain settings. In fact, I use the same amp gain settings for all of my speakers - my rear deck speakers are from the same Kenwood line as the front component set (all a "matched" set).

Front component set - Kenwood Excelon KFC-XP6903C
Rear Deck 6.5" set - Kenwood Excelon KFC-X174

I have been really impressed with the Kenwood speakers. They sound fantastic, especially after the system is fully tuned. I would recommend them in heartbeat for anyone looking for inexpensive "drop-in" factory replacement speakers.

[diy.phil]

Yeah ... underseat subs with a small/medium amp is actually plenty powerful and strong, and we really don't need more subs and bigger amps further away in the trunk. It's just our build log will look like it's missing a big sub box and will have to keep explaining it to people that don't understand it (yet) lol. Sound level follows the inverse square law (physics) and it's going to be very strong/powerful when it's nearby with just moderate power.