I am. Not a Simpsons fan?
I am. Not a Simpsons fan?
Now I get it... :-)
Initially, I read your original post with Tapatalk, which just shows this:
"mmm, AmpPro
baw"
However, if I look at your original post in a browser, I see that the "baw" actually shows a pic of Homer - and it makes more sense.
Anyway.... I'm happy to report that everything works (so far) with the AmpPro 4 and DSP.3 and nothing caught on fire or blew up. :-)
Now I need to do a little more testing before I put everything back together (dash, trim, etc). I will say this - taking the fash trim off of the Challenger dash (to install the AmpPro 4) sure was a major PITA. Everything is plastic and you have to use a LOT of force to remove it. Thought for sure I was going to break something. Sometimes I miss things being held together with screws instead of those little speed clips that can be crazy-tight and hard to remove... I want to make sure that everything is working correctly before I put that all back together, that's for sure...
Stupid question time (I'm good for those!). :-)
So I realized that the Helix wifi control adapter is staying powered up all of the time, regardless of whether the DSP.3 is actually up and running or not. Basically. I took power and ground from my amp wires and then split that off to go to the DSP.3 and the wifi adapter - mistakingly thinking that the DSP.3 would control the turn on/off of the wifi adapter automatically when it saw a signal on the remote-in wire connected to the DSP.3. However, it doesn't seem that "smart" and the wifi adapter just stays powered up constantly.
Do most people leave it powered up constantly or do they connect the wifi power wire to the remote-out wire of the DSP.3 so that it's only powered up when the DSP.3 powers up amps, etc?
I'm not worried about the power draw, but it seems kind of silly to have the wifi adapter powered up 24x7 for no real reason....
Just curious how others do it...
Thank you!
Was user error with the wifi module. Since I was still in VERY early testing phases, I never saved a profile to the DSP.3 after getting it connected. Once I did that, the wifi module started turning off and on with the DSP.3 like I expected it to from the start. :-)
Everything is working except for my powered under-seat sub. It's powering on, but not getting any audio output. Will investigate. Almost there... :-)
Was again user error - the "Subwoofer" volume in the Android controller app was turned down all of the way. <oops>
I'm curious though - if I didn't want to use the Android app at all, how do you control these volume levels?? I can't find an option for it in the main Windows app. It has 4 volume levels - Master volume, Subwoofer, Optical and HEC/Aux. I know I can set levels in the Windows app, but these volume controls in the Android app are "separate". If you use the wifi adapter do you just have to use Android app as well?
Of course I did! :-) Unfortunately, there really isn't much in the way of instructions with the wifi adapter. Just says to connect the wires to power and ground (I knew that!). :-) It doesn't say if the wifi control adapter should power on and off with the DSP.3, etc...
It just started working and I can only assume that it started working after I saved a profile to the DSP after getting it all connected. But it's definitely turning off and on with the DSP.3 now, so I'm good...
Right... But if I didn't use the app - how would I turn those levels up and down? Or is the app pretty much "mandatory"? When I initially connected everything on the bench in the house to mess with it, I couldn't get any output. Then I loaded the Android app and found all of the volume levels defaulted to being turned down all of the way, which is why I wasn't getting any output.
So if I never loaded the Android app and messed with it, I would have been stuck for a while. :-) I guess I was thinking the app was "optional" and that it wasn't needed to use the DSP.3 - but without the app, I would have never had any output at all.
with a URC.3. I have the wifi/urc.3 combo in my car