First build in a long time.

[Fugley01]

I'm attempting to do a super cheap build in my 98 f150 super cab pickup.
So here's what I have so far.
The head unit is a Kenwood KDC-BT652-u with Bluetooth this came with the truck so I'm using it. The subs and enclosure I got from the local classifieds for $125.00
they are Phoenix Gold octane R's single voice coil 4ohm 500 watt max. The enclosure is a truck specific bassworx. To power these I also found this Kenwood KDC-8103D mono subwoofer amp rated for 2 or 4 ohms. Cost $60.00.
For the rear panels I have a pair of Phoenix Gold RSd690 2 way 6x9" that I bought 4 years ago and never used.

For the door speakers I have a set of Pioneer TS-G6842R's

These are 6x8" and should be a direct replacement for the factory door speakers.



If it ain't broke. It soon will be!

[Fugley01]

I have a slight dilemma regarding power for these speakers. I have a Dual XPA4100 4/3/2 channel amp

That I can use to power all 4 coaxial speakers or I can bridge it to mono and run the Phoenix Gold 6x9's and then use the kicker IX252

To run the pioneer coaxials in the doors.
I do have a few questions to anyone that might have installed a system in a 97-03 F150 super cab. Will the amps fit behind the rear seat on the cab wall? Would I be better off running all four coaxials off of the Dual amp and use the small Kicker and to power a set of pillar mounted tweeters instead?
Any and all comments or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
As I said, I want to do this build on the cheap. So far I have $225.00 spent on it plus another $75 or so on wiring. I am not counting what I paid years ago for the Phoenix Gold or Pioneer coaxials because I have set my own statute of limitations and they are past my time limit

Mike.


If it ain't broke. It soon will be!

[chithead]

Truthfully, I would only power the front speakers, use head unit power on the rears, and then use that Mono amp on the subwoofers. Wouldn't even consider those additional tweeters just yet.

[Fugley01]

If I only power the front speakers would it be better to use the Kicker amp (which is probably better quality) or the Dual amp in bridged stereo mode?


If it ain't broke. It soon will be!

[cajunner]

I'd check everything for function first, then I'd install the coaxials just like you figured, powering the subs with the class D amp, the Dual can be bridged on the front doors and the Kicker can be used in the rear on those coaxes.

That will be a nice, high powered system and should bring you towards your goal of an inexpensive set-up that sounds pretty good.

The next thing (for me) would be a JBL MS-2 unit, in the mix. Less than 100 bucks, you get equalization, time alignment on the front coaxes, and you can loop through the Dual to the Kicker for rear-fill, giving you some left-right compensation from the rear set.

the next step would be to move towards a component set-up in the front, using passive crossovers.

then you could see how that could be improved by buying an inexpensive active crossover that allows you to adjust frequency and levels, and tossing the Kicker on the tweeters of the now active component set and have the Dual still bridged on the woofers.

[Fugley01]

Would something like this be suitable?
The guy is asking $50.00 for it.


If it ain't broke. It soon will be!

[cajunner]

that's old school stuff, no active crossover for mid/tweeter crossing, and no time alignment.

the MS-2 is an auto-tune piece, it sets the levels according to a microphone's response, and the algorithm is pretty good, (imho) and it comes up on Amazon for under 100, new.

I wouldn't give more than 20 bucks for an equalizer like that one you show, nowadays. Of course, I have a JBL MS-2 so I may be prejudiced.

If you don't like the idea of something making things sound good "automatically" and you want to fidget with some knobs, get a 1/3 oct. equalizer at least.

[Fugley01]

I just looked up the jbl-ms2. Didn't know what is was. Like my title says... First build in a long time. My last serious system was in the mid to late 80's. I ran a Harmon Kardon head unit, 2 Harmon Kardon amps as well as two alpine amps. Run through a kenwood eq. All stuffed into an 84 Fiero. It sounded nice as was definitely loud.
I am going to do as suggested, get things working and then start tweaking. The ms2 will be the first thing I will add. I love tech stuff. With 2 young kids its kinda hard to justify to the wife why I'm spending money on car audio. Go figure


If it ain't broke. It soon will be!

[cajunner]

you're just dipping your toe with the MS-2, but it'll give you a baseline quickly that you can work with, until you want to fiddle some more.


then you can move into the tuning game, and get a DSP unit that allows for a lot of adjustment.


you probably will enjoy the sound of the system before doing anything else, if you pay attention to the little things. Make sure you treat the doors, deaden some, use foam isolation, seal the big holes with a stiff panel of plexy or aluminum sheet, the normal stuff.

run the extra set of speaker wires in the doors if you aren't going through the factory harness, so you can go active later on with the tweeters.

The MS-2 is supposed to be a cheap fixer for mp3 playback, but you can hardwire it into the system using RCA to headphone adapters. It's not the only way to go, and many will tell you it's better you learn how to run a 30 band equalizer instead, but it's got the processing power for some quality kicks.

first things first, though.

get the doors treated before you install the speakers, because you won't want to pull off the panels again later.

and, take your time, look around at other people's builds, get a sense for what is accepted practice.

And if you feel like posting pics, you can make a build thread.

[Fugley01]

Just spent the better part of an hour fishing a front speaker wire through the rubber sleeve to the door. I hope the passenger side is a little easier. I also ran a second wire through just in case of future comp. speakers. I have the Dual amp mounted under the passenger seat and have power run through the wiring trough to the side of the seat.


Now I can solder the door speaker wire onto the speaker and start on the other side.


If it ain't broke. It soon will be!